I did test drive and the Bilstein HD shocks does give my Caddy more body control without being too firm to cruise around town. In all honestly the Bilsteins feel mostly the same as my stock shocks which were not bad, just with a small amount better control over rough bumps and around corners.

However, my stock shocks still seem to be firm as they are very hard to compress even more so than the Bilsteins. The Bilsteins does have some type of passive valving system that firms the shocks up under hard load so that may be why the shocks are easy to press by hand.

Overall, I am happy with the performance and cost of the Bilsteins. I got the whole set for under $300 and they perform as good or better than the stock shocks on my ride. A new replacement active shock was about $300 each from Monroe. However, I did install large Timbren load bearing bump-stops to help with keeping my rear end from sagging due to my rear air shocks bags being torn. Therefore, I do not know how well the Bilstein rear shock are compared to the stock air shocks that work. I also use a a stiffer bump-stop from the Tahoe's Z71 package in the front so my suspension rides pretty stiff even before the shock change.

The RTD fuse removal trick worked to prevent the service ride message from appearing when swapping to a passage shock set-up.

 

Update: I really got to test the new shocks on my commute to work last night that has me driving on some roads with large dips, some bumps, and curves. Actually one of the roads has a curve with a slight bump that can be a white knuckle affair depending how fast you are going.

Well, the Bilsteins handle the bumps perfectly. The old shocks used to get a bit unsettled on the bumps. The Bilsteins just absorb the bumps with minimal body movement. I only feel a jolt and hear a thud, where before the body used to move and I had to really steer the truck back on track. The Caddy just move like it never hit the bump soon after the thud with no extra swaying with the Bilsteins.

The true test for the Bilsteins was how they handled a uneven stretch of highway that creates a large bump on a curve. The bump is large enough that it unsettles my 2015 Genesis 5.0 with a very good active suspension just a bit. The Caddy used to bounce and rock side to side with the old shocks which was always a white knuckle event when I hit the bumps at 65mph or faster. Well, the Bilsteins just made thud and the Caddy did not rock or bounce while needing no additional steering correction to maintain control when I hit the bump at about 75mph. Perfect. It handled the large bump almost as good as the Genesis sedan.

I guess I should have did this shock change a while ago because the Caddy is much safer to drive with the Bilsteins, I did not know how bad the old shocks were until last night after driving with the Bilsteins.

 

I understand that new shocks will work better than worn old shocks but I think you would have gotten a better ride if you replaced with replacement original style active shocks. Prices though Amazon are no where as bad and major parts dealers. Got my compressor and rear shocks there. Now your nice looking ride does not drive like a Cadillac.

 

Well, I love how my Caddy rides now. I like a firmer suspension. From what I read many owners complain that the stock Caddy ride is floaty over bumps, I hate floaty loose riding suspension set-ups. My Caddy rides more like a Tahoe Z71 which what I prefer. Looks good and handles like a BMW X5.

The Bilstein rides good enough for me, however I never had working rear air shocks so i never experience how a stock Escalade truly rides. The Bilsteins are smooth on the road and handle bumps very well, so I do not feel that I am missing anything except for maybe towing capacity since the air shocks seem to be better at doing that. However, I never tow anything anyway with my Caddy so it not important to me.

 

Welcome to the club! As you can see the rear shocks are taller than the old shocks. You will now need to jack up the back end even higher to get the tires off the ground. There's probably an additional 2" of suspension travel now. You can probably see your suspension no longer sits on the timbrens.

 

Thank you. You are correct about needing to jack up the rear higher. I learned that the hard way when I tried to reinstall my rear tires with Caddy on the jack stands positioned with the old shocks; the axle was sitting too low to install my tires after I installed the Bilsteins. I had to jack up the rear axle to mount my rear tires.

My old shocks actually did not make my Caddy sit on the Timbrens bump-stops; close but there was an gap. However, the new shocks seem to make the rear sit a tad bit higher than the stock worn shocks. My Caddy sits mostly level with the rear sitting about an 1/2in higher than the front. I like that stance better than the rear sitting really jacked-up like stock. The stock stance with the air shocks is perfect for bearing a load, but not good for handling unloaded. The Bilsteins just make the Escalade handling more performance oriented without being too firm. They put the sport back into SUV(Sport Utility Vehicle).

Note: I could lower the front end about an 1/2 inch by using stock Cadillac front bump-stops that are shorter than the front Z71 bump-stops that I am using now.

I read some reviews by auto magazines and they seem to prefer the passive Z71 suspension(OEM Bilsteins HD shocks) over the active suspension even on the newer GM truck/SUV's. I can see why.

Here is how the Timbren bump-stops sit on the truck without a load with the Bilsteins. Hard to tell in the picture, but the bump-stop sits about a 1/2in or so off the axle.

 

That is a sweet looking ride. I'm curious, what size tires are you running?....and do you have any leveling or lift kit installed on the front?
I ask because I am putting 33" AT tires (on 20's with close to stock positive offset) on my '04 and adding a 2-3" torsion key/rear coil spacer lift with KYB Monomax's up front and back.....to get the 33's to fit.....
I have searched and looked for weeks, and everything I have read on here says that with 33" with the 2-3" lift should fit fine or need very minor trimming.....

But, depending on what size tires YOU ARE running, it looks like I may not have needed the lift kit and could have just swapped the shocks and got new bump stops......

Also, did disco the battery and pulling the fuse work for the stabilitrak light?

 

Thank you. It does get some looks on the road.

A never adjusted my torsion bars, however the previous owner could have. I have 275/45-22 tires and I only installed Z71 front bump-stops which are about an inch taller than the stock Escalade bump stops and some Timbrens rear bump-stops which do not affect the rear height. The stock springs and air shocks determine the rear height. Changing the air shocks lowers the back-end about an inch or so since the air shocks pump-up at start-up to raise the rear-end slightly. The Z71 bump stops helped to level out my front end without adding a lift kit or adjusting my torsion bars. The Bilsteins rear shocks seem to have lifted the rear end slightly as well.

Disconnecting the battery and pulling the RTD fuse worked for me so that I do not get the service ride message with the Bilsteins shocks. I did not get any stability control error message.

 

Hey carguy75!
Thanks a lot for the reply. I might do the Z71 front bump stops too....mine are worn out anyway.
Also, since my back air shocks have been blown for awhile, its probably safe to say the ride height is probably already 1" lower in rear since they don't inflate upon startup. ???
I'm trying to decide if since I have the 1.25" spacer going into the back coils if new rear gas shocks would be enough, or if I will need to get the new rear coils and shocks......I.e. Strutmasters kit or the Bilstein kit.

I guess it all depends how she feels and looks when i pick her up today after the install.
Can I post some pics here after i pick it up? or should i post them somewhere else......new to posting in the forum.....but have been lurking for awhile....lol.

thx again

 

I thought about using rear spring spacers to lift my rear end if the Bilsteins sat lower than the worn stock rear shocks, however I did not need spacers since my Escalade's stance ended up the way I like it. However, the stock springs are too soft to be used with just the rear Bilsteins shocks and will allow the shocks to bottom out. Larger rear bump-stops(Timbren) help stiffen the stock springs to handle aftermarket shocks. The stock rear suspension is designed to have the air shocks handle most of the load, so the stock rear springs are not as stiff as the ones on the Z71 package. You can also buy Bilstein rear springs that fit a 2002-2006 Chevy Tahoe or Moog Tahoe rear springs which will stiffen up the rear end with aftermarket passive shocks. Kits would be the best way to go.

I have some Moog rear springs, but they seem to be very stiff to be used with the Timbren bump-stops. I do not want my Caddy rear bouncing over every bump like a wagon, so I will just use my stock springs with the Timbrens bump-stops. The rear stiffness seems just right with that combination.

Spacers would have your Escalade rear end sitting more like a stock one with the air suspension working I suppose.

 

Update: The front shocks have settled a bit and is sitting about an inch lower than when I first installed them. I guess these shock valves loosen up over time. Therefore the front is not as leveled like it was before like in my picture. The Caddy now have a slightly lower front end look like stock. So these shocks will not raise your front end for long.

 

I agree about the aftermarket springs/kits being pretty stiff.
I don't have any, but after reading your reply, and after seeing a few that had the rear kit conversion, it seemed like the Strutmaster/Bilstein/Moog aftermarket springs were actually adding maybe .5" - 1" in additional rear height as a result of the added stiffness to accommodate the lack of rear air shock for towing etc......I didn't want that since I was already lifting the front to try an eliminate the rake. And like you, (if I'm interpreting your reply correctly) I like and prefer the softness or smoothness of the back end and not a jarring catapult when I hit a speed bump or a something like that. Lol

 

You are correct about my opinion on the Bilstein shocks with the stock springs and Timbren bump-stops. The combination is firm but not too firm to be uncomfortable. Any firmer and the ride would be a bit much even for me and I am fine with firm suspensions. But, I do not want my Caddy to ride like HD pickup truck or cargo van. Now it rides like an SUV with a sport suspension, firm but comfortable to drive.

 

Well, got her back and she looks and drives great.....even with the stock rear blown air shocks....lol. Still smooth, but not such a floating feeling.
I put the Truxx kit on it. 3" keys for front with shock extenders and new KYB's....and 1.25" spacer in rear....and 33X12.5X20 A/T tires (rims are close to stock positive offset)
I will get new rear shocks soon.....But I am so happy with the way it turned out. Plenty of room, no rubbing or trimming needed at all.
When I get the rear shocks, I will also try the Timbrens in back with the Z71 in front as you advised....
I will post some pics later.

 

I cannot wait for the pics. Sound like a nice off-road setup. Do not see that much on a Escalade.

 

Update: The Bilstein shocks are riding great. I guess they have broken in because the ride has soften and the handling is spot on, or maybe I just got used to them. My cousin how has a 2010 Tundra loves how the Escalade rides and mention a few times on our trip in the Escalade on how he loves the way the Bilsteins handle bumps. The shock just firm up at first on a bump and then soft up with hardly any body movement. Very tight handling and control. His Tundra handle bumps like a truck, but very smoothly. However, it is not as tight or hunker down like the Caddy now with the Bilsteins. My cousin is going to buy some Bilsteins for his truck and the Atturo tires I have.

I have decided to install the Moog rear springs since they are actually Z71 replacement springs to see how they ride. The Moog springs will also lift the rear end about an inch higher, so I will have the rake look most GM SUV have in stock form. A stiffer read-end can not hurt I guess.

 

Sorry it took so long.....I'm a Little League President and a Cub Scout Leader.....my time is thin. Lol.
Havent replaced the rear shocks yet or got the new springs....but she still sits way better.

Thx for talking with me!

 

View attachment 544268
View attachment 544270
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Sorry it took so long.....I'm a Little League President and a Cub Scout Leader.....my time is thin. Lol.
Havent replaced the rear shocks yet or got the new springs....but she still sits way better.

Thx for talking with me!

Looks good!!! The Caddy looks like it can be driven off-road without any issues. White Escalades look better riding on chrome.

 

How difficult was compressing the springs?
I've watched a video but my ext looks much more tighter in work area.
Also I am trying to get a bit more height front and back, any suggestions on parts, already have replaced rears once with monroes, non air.

 

Compressing the springs isn't really necessary to remove the springs. You just need to remove the lower shock bolt and I think there are some sensors that attach to the control arm that you would want to unclip, and you can drop the axle far enough where the spring just comes out.

Here's the strutmaster's video on removing the rear coil springs. They do not compress the spring. They are also replacing the shocks at the same time

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNFYq9ZLCO8

 

I actually prefer the Strutmaster method of spring removal. Much safer than using a spring compressor. I tried to just lower the rear axle but I did not remove sway bar links so the axle did not fall low enough to just pull out the springs. I will try removing removing the sway bar links when I install the Moog rear springs.

 

which moog model spring did you get? how do you know if I need to replace them? You dont need the air compressor anymore when you add these shocks ?my compressor and shocks are all done so just want to replace with regular ones..please let me know..thanks!

 

Moog 81069 springs.

 

The traditional Bilstein shocks have no provision for any of the auto/air ride functionality. There's no place to plug in either the air line, or the electrical connector onto the Bilstein shock.

I bet these are the Moogs carguy bought;

https://www.amazon.com/Moog-81069-Coil-Spring-Set/dp/B00498ZR7A

 

Correct, the Amazon link you posted even stated that I bought those springs on 11oct2017 when I clicked the link. It is crazy how Amazon remembers your past purchases just from a link.

 

The stock rear springs(bottom) compared to the Moog springs(top). Both springs are the same height, but the Moog springs has more coils for stiffness.

 

I left the stock springs in as well, along with those huge timbrens. The springs are definitely bouncy, and with as cheap as those Moog springs are, I may just install them, and see how it goes.

Another project to add to the list of projects. Sigh.

 

You do have the heavier ESV version. The Bilsteins and Timbrens are more than enough for my standard model Escalade rear-end, but your ESV has a really heavy rear-end so the same stock springs and bump-stops will not be enough to keep the rear-end under control I bet. You may need the stiffer Moog rear springs for better control.

 

I decided to buy the matching Bilstein B3 rear springs for the HD shocks and see if they improve the rear handling/load bearing instead of installing the Moog rear springs I have.

The Bilstein B3 spring. The B3 spring is stiffer or as stiff as the stock Z71 spring, so it should give better support than my softer stock Z55 rear springs. I will keep my Moog springs just in case I may repair another GMT800 down the road or give them to a friend.

 

If you decide to unload those Moog springs, shoot me a PM. We're best friends, remember?

In all seriousness, just let me know what you would want for them. I can reference the part number and make sure they are the same for the ESV and the short wheelbase. Since we live north of the same metro area, no need to ship.

 

LOL. We are internet friends, but I will give the springs to one of my real world friends who has an 2003 Chevy Tahoe. He is thinking about replacing his old shocks for Bilstein HD shiocks and probably upgrade the rear springs as well since he want some aftermaket 22in wheels, so I may just give him the Moog springs when he pull the trigger and buy the Bilstein HD shocks to help him out.

 

LOl. I was going to install the Bilstein rear springs today but I noticed that the Bilsteins are about 2in shorter than my stock rear springs.
Therefore, I just installed the Moog rear springs. The Moog was also shorter than the stock springs, but have more coils for better support. I hope the Moog springs do not ride too stiff in the rear. I will save the Bilsteins if I ever decide to lower my Escalade in the front. I will give some feedback later.

The three rear springs side by side. Stock springs on the left, Moog HD in the center, and Bilstein B3 springs on the right.

\

 

I have noticed that my old springs seem to have gotten longer. A while back the stock springs and Moog HD springs were the same height. Now the stock springs seems to be losing the tight coiling feature and seems longer like in the previous picture in post #37. But in the comparison picture in post #1 both springs were the same size. I wonder did the Bilsteins HD shocks wear the old stock springs out?

However the Bilstein B3 springs are still about an inch shorter than the Moog HD springs.

Note: I do notice that rear end sits a bit higher with the Moog HD springs installed, so the old stock springs were not supporting the rear much at all it seems.

Have not had a chance to test drive since I have to change a leaking front differential pinon yoke seal first. The work is never done on the Caddy.

 

Today I got a chance to test the Moog HD springs on some rough roads and is very pleased with the on road performance. My old stock springs used to compress more in the rear until the Timbren bump-stops started to bear the weight. Now the rear end barely moves at all on rough roads and bumps.

The Timbren bump-stops seem to mostly just cushion the rough bumps now as opposed to bearing all the weight of the rear end which actually rides pretty good now. The rear end did squat a little over rough bumps with the old springs even with the Timbrens.

Feel like a bought a new SUV now.

The Bilstein HD rear shocks and Moog HD rear springs make a good handling combination.

 

I have those moog springs in my amazon wish list. They are cheap too. Nice to know they make a great upgrade to the suspension.

 

You will be happy with Moog HD springs for sure. I may do a torsion bar to coil spring conversion soon so I may use the Bilsteins rear springs I have as my front springs with the conversion bracket kit.

99-07 GM Torsion Bar to Coilover Brackets - Atomic Fabrication

Torsion bar to Coilover conversion brackets. If you are unsure what bracket kit you need, see my post here: What Coilover Brackets Do I Need?

atomicfabandperformance.com

 

Wouldn't the Bilstein springs be too tall for the front? That's not a bad price for that kit, but I'd like to see this kit in practice before I decide I want to do that. It certainly would make replacing the lower control arm a lot easier. Too bad I can't use my existing bilsteins with that kit. But you gotta be able to mount the brackets somewhere.

 

You can use your Bilsteins shocks with the kit. The kit just removes the torsen bars and allows you to install springs in the coil-over brackets in place of them. The spring coilover brackets are adjustable so many truck springs will work with the kit, hopefully the Bilsteins would work as well.

I will try to buy the coli-over conversion kit by next summer and see how it goes.

 

I'll definitely need to see this, because I'm mainly concerned with how the spring would mount. Existing Bilstein HDs don't have a spring perch for the spring base.

 

Hence the conversion kit that allows the front springs to be mounted inside front control arms. The springs do not seat on the shock like the stock setups.