Best wax to use for black paint?
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3M handglaze you can get at most automotive supply places. I get mine at an actual autobody supply shop because they give me killer advice as well. Zaino is not typically retailed. Their website is www.zainobros.com
My best advice with black is. 1) Start with a CLEAN CLEAN car. 2) Use CLEAN CLEAN microfiber towels (can get em at walmart) and 3) continually fold over the towels and change them frequently.
My best advice with black is. 1) Start with a CLEAN CLEAN car. 2) Use CLEAN CLEAN microfiber towels (can get em at walmart) and 3) continually fold over the towels and change them frequently.
I believe that someone on this site sells zaino products. Their website is www.hcvind.com and I believe his name is hcvone.mikeee said:
Dont know if I should be advertising, but I read the site before and he gives some good tips. I know I have a 50+k truck, but I dont want to ruin my paint so I haven't yet taken the leap from Meguire's and Mother's to Zaino. I wonder is it that much better?
Definately do NOT use a power buffer on black....hand polish only my man...I have a power buffer, all the buffing pads, random buffer...you name it. Would'nt use on black in a million years. Zaino is pretty good buy awful expensive. I'm anal so I gave it try. Works well on my Doral...
As said I would not use a buffer on black paint, unless it's to repair swirl marks or light scratches. Synthetic "waxes" will last much longer than carnuaba wax products, usually 5 to 1 in durability. Surface prep is the key to good results, you want to get as many swirls and scratches out before applying "wax", 3M Scratch and Swirl Remover, Zaino Z-PC are good paint prep products, also you want to wash your truck with a 100% cotton wash mitt, not a sponge, you will want to use cotton towels for drying, or micro fiber towels, just check them to make sure they will not scratch. many micro fiber towels will cause scratching. Synthetic waxes like Zaino or Klasse SG contain no cleaners or abrasives, if you use a carnauba wax product P21S works well. You can get more info about waxes at www.gurureports.org . they tested the top 46 products about 2 years ago, see how your favorite waxes rate. I know how ours did. 
If I ever own another black car, it will never see rain.
The 3M Imperial Hand Glaze mentioned earlier is probably the best thing to restore that deep, dark shine. I'm sure there are other glaze manufacturers that are just as good.
I hope nobody minds, but I'm going to transfer this thread over the the detailing and appearance forum. There have been some very good responses here that everyone can benefit from, whether they own an Escalade or not.
The 3M Imperial Hand Glaze mentioned earlier is probably the best thing to restore that deep, dark shine. I'm sure there are other glaze manufacturers that are just as good.
I hope nobody minds, but I'm going to transfer this thread over the the detailing and appearance forum. There have been some very good responses here that everyone can benefit from, whether they own an Escalade or not.
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man o man, this post only reflects why my detailing clinics are so popular. first> black is a tough color to keep up. PREP work is more important than what wax/finish product you use as the final step. I can make a black car look prestine with a coat of $1.99 can of turtle wax. With respect to the other brands mentioned here, and based from experience out of using most of them posted, they are still retail products. I could tell you many tips about each of them that time does not allow here. For example, the 3m hand glaze has fillers in it, which will only hide the imperfections in the paint, so when it rains or you wash your car, theywill return. Meguiars makes a red bottle and brown bottle, the red is watered down and mostly ineffective, which is why it is sold at discount stores. The brown bottle is better, however it requires more skill on how to use it. I teach detailing at colleges and I will say that 95% of the people that attend my classes are finicky people with regard to their car but are clueless on products and applications. The most sucessful marketing company is Zaino. yes they make good products, but according to the poeple that I have talked to they are expensive and difficult to use. When you see the product line z/1 z/2 z/3 z/4 z/5 z/6 z7 and on and on, it doesn't suprise me that people looking for simple solutions are coming to me for advice. The advantage I have with my product line is that I market only the best product in each catagory I have found. Plus I take the time to walk people through the steps on hows to get their car looking the best it can. gary
Well Ive never been so confused now, lol. I did it by hand and the result was not a single swirl or scratch came out. Not even a tiny bit. I guess I will just have to use the buffer, although about 10 poeple I talked to said not to.
I can not address the "swirls" or scratches on your car, but I have two black cars (not completely by choice, but when you buy on impulse..lol) and I've had pretty good success with:
1) wash with good auto shampoo
2) Clay (2x a year)
3) Klasse All-in-One
4) Klasse Super Glaze
I have also had good success with P21S on the Eldo:
![]()
1) wash with good auto shampoo
2) Clay (2x a year)
3) Klasse All-in-One
4) Klasse Super Glaze
I have also had good success with P21S on the Eldo:
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MIkee, the reason you could not get swirls out by hand is because the swirls are in the clear coat. I would not suggest using a machine unless you have experience. How far are you from Chicago, I'm hosting a free detailing seminar Nov 29th at 7pm. near O Hare Air Port. If you can't make it visit myweb site for tips on paint correcting. I recently started an advance class which I host at my shop, all the patrons use all five of my buffers, (most people don't know about some of the best machines out there) they also do wet sanding and for kicks, I drag a box with staples in it across my 97 Grand Prix and scratch the hell out of the hood. I make my students do the work, that hood looks better than the rest of the car when they are done buffing it. Gary
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www.perfectautofinish.com
I can't teach you all you need to know in a post here. The things that are important BEFORE you start buffing is knowledge on the different color coded pads, and the effect it will have on the finish/(cutting pads/polishing pads/finishing pads) the speed of the machine also plays a role (faster for cutting, med for polishing, slow for finishing) Product you use is a HUGE factor. aggressive cleaners,componds are designed to be used with a cutting pad, but they will leave the surface dull after you level the paint, so you need to follow up with a polish and finish coat. If you use the wrong product, with the wrong pad, and speed, you can damage the finish, and the results will be less than you want. Its not that hard once you get acquianted with these products and terms, but you don't want to experiment on a nice car. Go to a body shop, they pay money to have their metal hauled away. They will be glad to give you a door or a fender, play with these first. I have a shop full of old auto body parts, which I use to try out new detailing supplies companies send to me. I won't try it out ever on a customers car. This is how I'm able to sell the highest quality supplies out there. I try it first. if it beats what I;m using now, my old stuff is replaced. Go to the feedback section on my web site, that tells the whole story. Gary
I can't teach you all you need to know in a post here. The things that are important BEFORE you start buffing is knowledge on the different color coded pads, and the effect it will have on the finish/(cutting pads/polishing pads/finishing pads) the speed of the machine also plays a role (faster for cutting, med for polishing, slow for finishing) Product you use is a HUGE factor. aggressive cleaners,componds are designed to be used with a cutting pad, but they will leave the surface dull after you level the paint, so you need to follow up with a polish and finish coat. If you use the wrong product, with the wrong pad, and speed, you can damage the finish, and the results will be less than you want. Its not that hard once you get acquianted with these products and terms, but you don't want to experiment on a nice car. Go to a body shop, they pay money to have their metal hauled away. They will be glad to give you a door or a fender, play with these first. I have a shop full of old auto body parts, which I use to try out new detailing supplies companies send to me. I won't try it out ever on a customers car. This is how I'm able to sell the highest quality supplies out there. I try it first. if it beats what I;m using now, my old stuff is replaced. Go to the feedback section on my web site, that tells the whole story. Gary
Zaino has one internet site. Marketing is by word of mouth from satisfied customers. Sucessful products must mean sucessful marketing to you.turbomangt said:
Although I dont know how you can put down a product unless you have tried it. Unless, of course, you have something of your own to sell.
I started useing Zaino four years ago and have found it the easiest and longest lasting shine I have used in 40yrs. of cleaning cars. All you have to do if follow the simple directions. It is more involved than a coat of Turtle Wax but the results are well worth it.
I would suggest checking out Autopia web site (& Zainos) and read up on the many ways of obtaining the perfect finish for your car.
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I re typed this several times before I decided which response would come across right. Zaino is a good product, never said it wasn't. By comparision to the professional grade products I use in my shop however it falls short of my expectations. Since I'm a perfectionist and treat every car in my shop like it were my own, I insist on the highest qaulity products available. Unfortuntely, the ones that fit that criteria, are not sold to the public. Keep in mind, I'm not some teenager speaking from his garage working on his 89 Mustang. I not only teach detailing, but I help publish a book (Automobile Detailing Business, Eileen Figure Sandlin) on how to get a detailing business started and I write for several trade magazines, plus I have my own detailing section in the paper. (Star News)The Zaino debate continues and it is one that I seldom get involed with, mainly because the people stuck on it are NOT open minded to trying new (and better) products. If you are happy and don't mind spending the money, go right ahead. If you want to see what other people that used other products in the past are saying now, go to my web site and read the feed back, that tells the story. I',m glad you are reading autopia, I write many articles for them, my good freind David Byron owns the site. Gary www.perfectautofinish.com
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If you really want a virtually fool proof polishing machine, invest in a Porter Cable dual action polisher. They are available at Lowes for about $100.00. Once you get that, you will then need to get a velcro backing plate and some polsihing pads. You can find tons of information by doing a search for a website called Autopia. It will fill you with more knowledge on how to maintain a perfect finish on your car and how to use various products including the Porter Cable. There is a complete section devoted on how to use it. The only way to truly get the most out of your black car is to do the majority of polishing by machine and a rotary polisher is just to difficult to use without much experience. It can be done by hand, but much easier and more successfull by machine. The Porter Cable will soon become your best friend and you'll have the best looking car in the neighboorhood.womsterr said:
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The porter cable is a good machine for what its purpose is for. applying polish/sealant and wax. However it does NOT do any paint correction, which is why they say its fool proof. Footnote, if you don't wash and clay your car before doing any machine work, whether or not its a DAPC or not, those micro particles stuck to your finish, will act like sandpaper when the machine starts spinning. The next level up from a porter cable is the DeWalt443, which has the same motion, Dual action, but has a motor 3 times more poweful than the porter cable. This machine is the one I use most in my shop and I have 5 buffers all designed for a specific purpose. Gary
turbomangt said:
I would not talk about products you do not know anything about like Zaino, by your comments saying things like "expensive and difficult to use" I can tell you never used this product, because it is one of the easiest products to use, and if used correctly it's one of the less expensive products to use as well. I owned 36 detail shops in the 80's and 90's, we tried the product that you like to use, the only thing it offered was a cheap purchase price. Zaino spends no money on advertising, it's word of mouth, because it does what few products do, it works.
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