I used the cheapest mounts around 8 years ago on my 98 and the front failed just a few months ago after 125k miles. Dog bones I go through one every year or so but they're cheap and easy to replace.

 

I have no dog bones on my car from factory, but have been thinking about creating some homemade one’s as I know they would take a lot of stress of that front mount.
However, since car has run 124k miles and likely still have the original front mount, I figured replacing it would be a good start as I don’t drive that much anyways

 

FWIW I have had a set of Ranger's Rods installed since early in his "production run", almost exactly 11 years ago. Many, many WOT runs, top speed runs, radical shift work in the farm road twisties east of here. NO radiator cross brace flex, no problems, no worries. And no broken front center motor mount. BUT the radiator brace mounting areas are not rubber buffered so there is a bit of busy engine noise transmitted to the body. Not a problem for me but its most definitely not "Cadillac".

The most elegant solution is probably the HD center mount from Northstar Performance. It's semi-solid and rubber buffered so there's much less engine noise sent to the cradle frame. Bulletproof and invisible.

Here's some of my install work on the 2002 -

 

FWIW I have had a set of Ranger's Rods installed...........

Sub, thanks for your "field-test report" on the Ranger rods.
The idea I had regarding avoiding the engine noise transmitted to the body through the torque rods, is to use two 90* brackets and put a smaller engine mount in between, so that when the engine pulls towards the firewall that rubber cushion gets compressed which it should hold for, and on the way back towards the radiator there shouldn't be much load on it.

Totally with you regarding the HD center mount from Northstar Performance, it would the best and most elegant solution, but unfortunately also a top dollar solution as I get to pay it twice with shipping and tax included ending up 400$

I'm leaning on placing an order on the DEA / MARMON RIDE CONTROL (hydraulic mount), that will cost me 62$

 

When replacing the front mount, do you normally remove the mount with bracket? also if going for the latter can you replace it from above if removing the cooler fans and supporting the engine with a lifting block (to take the load off the mount)?

 

Yes with bracket, i file the holes for mount in bracket some to allow some wiggle as makes life easier. Also I've had to shorten the bottom bolt to get them in. Don't think removing from top any easier, haven't tried. Assesmble loosely and put in then put all bolts in then tighten everything down makes life easier.

 

Thanks!
I will let my favorite mom&pop shop do the job, but still wanted to collect whatever tip I can give him to make the work as smooth as possible.
Is there anything connected to engine (wiring, pipes etc) to look out for not getting too stretched when dropping the subframe to get it out?

 

You don't have to drop subframe. If equipped with dog bones take them loose on one end so motor can be raised. May be easier and believe i did was to remove oil filter housing(10mm head bolts) and wiring to have plenty of clearance. I'm sure I'm forgetting something small but biggest thing was to shorten the stud on bottom of the mount to get it back in, the old one will flop around and is easy to get out.

 

No dog bones on my car (sadly..)
I get it, so you raise the engine to get the work access after removing the bracket bolts and bottom nut
I will make sure to put an oil filter and some oil in the trunk if it should come to that he needs to take off the filter

 

The whole oil filter housing comes off for clearance not the filter but good call to take a filter in case.

 

Got a new front mount installed yesterday.

The mechanic showed me the old one that had a 2’ long crack in the rubber part, also IF you turned it upside down some oil came out of it, no oil leaks showed before removing it however.

In all it was not totally wasted as I can imagine they can be, but bad enough to motivate a replacement.

The result of replacing it didn’t make that much of difference, I still get that little clunk as a worn U-joint on a RWD car would feel.

 

Possible the rear mount is bad, also yours doesn't have dog bones so bet it does move around some.

 

Yep, I should have checked the other mounts as well
Is the rear one any easier to access/ replace?

 

Back one easier to me, some bolts little harder to get to IIRC.
Drivers side trans mount almost never goes bad, it's the easiest of course.

 

Back one easier to me, some bolts little harder to get to IIRC.
Drivers side trans mount almost never goes bad, it's the easiest of course.

Thanks,
Think I'm gone replace this one myself
If one mount goes bad, its logical that the others will follow, the rear one especially in our case.

 

Check it before you replace it. The front mount is the one that takes all the stress. The others are not usually a problem.

 

Thanks for the tip,
I will have look before placing the order for a new one
Been driving around with this glitch for while now, which perhaps explains if the rear one has taken some beating too

 

Inspected the rear engine mount today and found what looks to be a crack (looking from the drivers side on the mount)
But when looking at a new one (see pict 2) I get a bit uncertain, appreciate if someone who knows how it should look can confirm that its broken

 

Inspected the rear engine mount today and found what looks to be a crack (looking from the drivers side on the mount)
But when looking at a new one (see pict 2) I get a bit uncertain, appreciate if someone who knows how it should look can confirm that its broken

After some thinking it’s getting more and more obvious that the gap I see on the driver’s side of the rear engine mount, is the end of the diagonal slot that is dividing the upper part of the mount.

The only way to know for sure is to get under there and have another look.

I will do what I should have done from the beginning; do a proper inspection on all mounts, feel over sub frame and bracket bolts etc, but consult my favourite mom&pops shop as he has a lift so we can get a good access on all the concerned parts.