battery problem, 91 deville

I'll bet that you have less than 1/4 tank of gas when this happens right? The tank baffles are broken and the fuel sloshes to one side. Fuel pump sucks air and the engine stalls from fuel starvation. Replace the tank or keep it above 1/4 tank.

Yes, I know that problem well. I never let it get below 2 gallons and it is okay. The problem is different in that the battery goes dead and cant restart unless I jump it.

91 deville said:

Yes, I know that problem well. I never let it get below 2 gallons and it is okay. The problem is different in that the battery goes dead and cant restart unless I jump it.

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Can you tell somehow how many volts it's putting into the battery,is the alternator actually putting out a charge?.

I can't imagine a battery or alternator problem happening only on turns. Why would you not clamp the battery down? If your scenario was correct, you'd be shorting the battery. There would be sparks and you'd likely blow fuses and have all sorts of problems.

Ranger said:

I can't imagine a battery or alternator problem happening only on turns. Why would you not clamp the battery down? If your scenario was correct, you'd be shorting the battery. There would be sparks and you'd likely blow fuses and have all sorts of problems.

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I agree,I just thought by the process of elimination he could determine if the battery is receiving a charge or not,maybe theres more than one thing going on.

Question: are you signaling when you turn using the "multipurpose switch" on the steering column every time this happens? There may be a problem in the wiring there. Also, define "dead battery" i.e. is there any clicking noise when you try to start it or is it just silent? doe the IP light up when you turn the key or not. Do you have headlights at all or is the whole car just electrically dead when it stalls. As well, it would be nice to know if you have any codes from the OBD system. Thanks in advance for the info, if you can pleas let me know.

Yes I am using the turn signals. The battery acts more like weakened than dead. The dash lights up as normal, no codes. Just too weak of a battery to start. I replaced it in 10 dregree weather and dropped the bolt for the hold down clamp in the snow...just haven't gotten around to securing it. I know there is very little clearance at + side terminal and factory went to great lengths to insulate the terminal and wasn't sure if the positive touching ground for a second would cause stalling and momentarily weaken battery. I have removed maxi fuse for ELC which serves fuses 11 and 12 under dash, one of which is ELC and theothr being radio, ant, glove compartment light, cig lighter and left lower info panel.
Thanks

I will look up the steering column Diagnostics in a few after my lunch. Stay tuned.

okay. 1st to put your mind at ease, especially if you took great pain to make sure the BAT + was insulated, there'd be a lot more fireworks, like Ranger said, and all kinds of fuses blowing etc. if that touched the car GND in any way. I suspect you have a problem on the other end with an intermittent BAT NEG side with loose or corroded cable. (even if it seems tight, I bet you have the big fancy molding on the cable end, right? that gets corrosion up inside of it, believe me) but I'll now just take a look-see at the steering column wiring for ya. Hang in there! be back soon.

PS. make it a priority to clamp the battery down, the bouncing around is REAL bad for it.