If you want to use a DMM to check resistance/impedance of the tweeter, you should be able to. The tweeter should just have a high pass filter (capacitor) in series with the wiring. By checking right across the tweeter itself, you should get a stable reading after a few moments after the cap has charged. This is a non-Bose system, right?
Bad tweeters or wiring
So after swapping in an old set (probably a good 15 years give or take 5) of Pyle tweeters into my 97 DeVille, I get no sound. I know the factory tweeters were a different resistance and all, but I dont' get a snap crackle or pop at all (not even a hum). Can't believe I didn't take the time to test them before wiring them in and mounting them.
However, I can simply pull the actual tweeter part front ways out of the mount after removing the grating without removing the entire door panel and rewiring everything.
I wanted to see if you guys knew a way to check if the tweeters were good without cutting stuff apart and such. I heard you can use a DMM and just read resistance across it, but won't the reading be way off due to having the door speakers and the oem hu in the circuit the other way around? Also heard about a battery test but don't want to try that with the hu being hooked in.
Kinda odd question but if anybody could let me know if the DMM test will work then I'd really appreciate it.
However, I can simply pull the actual tweeter part front ways out of the mount after removing the grating without removing the entire door panel and rewiring everything.
I wanted to see if you guys knew a way to check if the tweeters were good without cutting stuff apart and such. I heard you can use a DMM and just read resistance across it, but won't the reading be way off due to having the door speakers and the oem hu in the circuit the other way around? Also heard about a battery test but don't want to try that with the hu being hooked in.
Kinda odd question but if anybody could let me know if the DMM test will work then I'd really appreciate it.
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I was thinking that you replaced the factory tweeters, therefore, the factory crossover would still be intact. That would prevent reading across the mid-range driver. If they are truly in parallel electrically, I would definitely install a crossover to extend the life of both speakers. Not sure if links can be posted, but here's the address of a simple explanation so you can make your own for a couple bucks.
www.termpro.com/articles/xover2.html
For a quick test of the wiring, it seems like your plan should work just fine. Good luck.
www.termpro.com/articles/xover2.html
For a quick test of the wiring, it seems like your plan should work just fine. Good luck.
Glad you got it all taken care of. I hate those splices, but they do work well for what they were intended when you have the right wire gauges. I usually use crimp or solder connections.
The other thing I did a while ago was get a complete WeatherPack Kit to remake any of the standard GM outside connectors. It's come in handy so many times during my last big project, I had to buy refills.
Thanks for the update, and I'm glad you can enjoy your tunes now.
The other thing I did a while ago was get a complete WeatherPack Kit to remake any of the standard GM outside connectors. It's come in handy so many times during my last big project, I had to buy refills.
Thanks for the update, and I'm glad you can enjoy your tunes now.
1 - 3 of 7 Posts
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