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It felt like the front right caliper was dragging, and I was due for a pad change anyway. I installed two remanufactured front calipers, pads, and bled the whole system. I take it out to bedd the pads and it felt alright. I bedded the pads (six repeated 60-10mph stops, then the cool down drive) and it felt okay. Then as I get back on to main roads it feels like its pulling to the right. I stop at austozone to take the cores back and the front right is smoking a lot, and the wheel is too hot to touch. I limped it back home and pulled the wheel off. The new pads almost look ashy :eek:. So the new pads and bleed greatly increased the drag I was feeling. SO what is causing the caliper to continue squeezing the pad? A bad brake line? Is it possible for a master cylinder to cause one caliper to stay engaged?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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the brake hose is no good..is it the original one?...they collapse on the inside that u can't see...they get narrow inside and cause a slow return from the caliper to the master after u step on the brakes...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the response. Did this happen to you or did you read it here on another thread?
 

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happened 2 me a couple of weeks ago and several years back but i forgot all about it,changed caliper and pads,rotors just like you...didn't want 2 believe the hose because it looked good..but i did and now it's great...mine would still apply the r/s brakes even after i released the pedal..and then sometimes the r/s will lock up at times while i just tap the pedal...this is a common problem on all cars with rubber hoses..
 

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Try the stainless route if you replace them. I contacted the Precision Brakes Co. They carry or will fab lines, front and back for Caddys. Ask them about your particular application.
Braided lines are not only more durable, they give your pedal a firmer feel because they don't expand under pressure like rubber does. Especially as it softens over time.
 

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I know the '76 has metal lines for the back but I think that they are rubber in the front...can that company fab me up lines that will work for my car?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I put SS lines on my GSX Eclipse, but I don't think my 1991 Seville needs them lol. I think I paid $120 for the SS lines, and this one hose for the Seville is $23! But I doubt they're readily available for this car anyway.

I was chatting with the counter woman as I ordered the hose, and she said something about "Did you bleed the master cylinder?"

Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't you only bleed the master when your replacing it? I changed a couple of calipers and pads.

Also, If I want to replace all the brake fluid in the system with fresh, what's the best way to drain it? Through a caliper? Do I need to bleed the master if I flush all the fluid?
 

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From what I understand, you only bleed the master cylender when air has a chance to get inside it. If you kept it full while you were bleeding the caliper, you shouldn't need to worry about the master cylender.

If i was going to flush the system, I would do it through the calipers, making sure that the master cylender is full the whole way through (just so I don't have to remove and possibly strip lines)
 

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OP,
As turbocaddy noted, it could well be a collapsed rubber brake line. They have been known to deteriorate internally and act as a check valve, allowing fluid into the caliper but not back out.
Since you replaced the calipers, you may also wish to consider the possibility that the RF reman is defective.
 

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ABS warning light

can someone please tell me how to reset abs warning light after doing brake pad replacement lokked in:helpless: owners manual but no info there thanks
 

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