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How do you replace the alternator on a 95 Deville Concours with a 4.6L Northstar? Do you need to take out the radiator? Does it come out the bottom? Any special tools needed?
 

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alternator comes out the bottom. loosen both cooling fans and move then towards driver side. undo positive post of coarse. radiator can stay in, but may want to shield it on back side with sheet of cardboard. one bolt on top near battery and two from bottom. 15 millimeter box/open end wrench is only oddball. also 15 mm socket would help but not mandatory. take care with alternator wire and connector. windshield heater is only alternate option. two ratings depending on year. 95 and 96 use 140 amp. good luck.
 

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Curt Brown gave same answer to two similar forum questions. I just want everyone to know that he is not as smart as he sounds. (He gives the same answer no matter what the question i.s)

LOL
 

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1995 deville concours
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does anyone happen to know the part number for this item?

FSM lists model #10479995 and #10479996 and lists engines 4.6 (EXC C50) AND 4.6 (C50) meaning?... C50 is heated windshield.. Does EXC mean excluding?..

RockAuto lists:

ACDELCO Part # 3342411 {140 AMP #19135969}
GENERATOR,(REMAN) W/O HEATED WINDSHIELD; DELCO CS144 (140 AMPS)

ACDELCO Part # 3342433 {140 AMP #19135991}
GENERATOR,(REMAN) WITH HEATED WINDSHIELD; DELCO CS144 (140 AMPS)

ACDELCO Part # 3211006 {140:AMPS; replaces 10463377 #10463377}
GENERATOR,(REMAN) w/140 AMP(KG9); PROD 10479995; w/o HEATED W/S DEFR(C50)

Would it be the last one?

?...

:hmm:

Thanks..

Whirring sound from front of car.. Got a P110 and Battery No Charge message..
 

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99 Seville STS, 08 STS4 N* 1SG F55
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I believe C50 is the RPO code - check your tag. If you do not have that or a heated windshield you want #1.
 

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1995 deville concours
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ah.. so ok. i caved and had a shop replace the alternator.

the car was running rough, couldn't find a delco part on a saturday, needed the car back quick..

they gave me a duralast reman'd alternator. car started ok as i took it away from the shop. it sat for about 6 hours at about 40 degrees.. then it would not start. i got a jump. drove home. woke up. car won't start again.

so.. any ideas? what'd they miss? do i need a new battery?

thanks.
 

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ah.. so ok. i caved and had a shop replace the alternator.

the car was running rough, couldn't find a delco part on a saturday, needed the car back quick..

they gave me a duralast reman'd alternator. car started ok as i took it away from the shop. it sat for about 6 hours at about 40 degrees.. then it would not start. i got a jump. drove home. woke up. car won't start again.

so.. any ideas? what'd they miss? do i need a new battery?

thanks.
Did you charge the battery after replacing the alternator? Alternators were never really designed to charge a completely dead battery. Hard on the alternator and the battery from what I understand... Make sure you fully charge your battery, start the car, and read voltage across the battery with the car running - should read above 14ish volts. If not, the alternator or its connections would be suspect.

Key phrase: "Duralast Reman'd alternator" Complete garbage, along with its bastard cousins (Oreiley's, Car Quest, and Advance Auto counterparts). Mechanics should know better than to put that garbage in the car - they have to redo it when it fails. I've put those blasted things in plenty of vehicles. Our Deville with a HT 4100 ate through 3 of the Duralast alternators within 6 months. After driving 3 hours to replace my brother's 3rd Duralast alternator in his stranded Deville, I decided to go OEM. Car has been running fine for 2 years since. Lesson learned. However, It was extremely easy to replace the alternator on the HT4100, not so much on a Northstar. Go to Rockauto.com to get an OEM alternator. The price is probably comparable to Duralast junk at Autozone. If you are in a time crunch, I've also always had good luck with NAPA branded alternators.

Good Luck! Sorry for the rant, but I really have had problems with non OEM starters and alternators.
 

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argh..

no. that rant sounds pretty accurate now.

i just rode my battery over to the autozone for a check/charge. ducktape to the back of my bike (my.. bicycle.. i mean.. heh.). it tested as "good" with a little over 12 volts..

a battery is very heavy. i have been reminded of this fact today.

wondering what the deal is though. i have power to the dash and lights. i drove the car twice and the car is jump-able.. the gal at autozone said if it's a bad alternator the battery would die pretty quick after driving around..

when i turn the key there's silence then a short series of about 5 or so clicks

starter? started solenoid?
 
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argh..

no. that rant sounds pretty accurate now.

i just rode my battery over to the autozone for a check/charge. ducktape to the back of my bike (my.. bicycle.. i mean.. heh.). it tested as "good" with a little over 12 volts..

a battery is very heavy. i have been reminded of this fact today.

wondering what the deal is though. i have power to the dash and lights. i drove the car twice and the car is jump-able.. the gal at autozone said if it's a bad alternator the battery would die pretty quick after driving around..
You are not getting enough elecricity
when i turn the key there's silence then a short series of about 5 or so clicks

starter? started solenoid?
________ That clicking sound means you are not getting enough battery juice to the starter. It could be a weak battery or bad battery cable or cable ends. Be sure you do not have any add on battery ends, get battery cables with molded on ends. Don't depend on the "gal" at autozone to be a mechanic either. beware of autozone parts guarantee, the labor cost of replacing their parts outweighs the cost of the cost of good parts. good luck. TexasCadillac
 

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If you are in a time crunch, I've also always had good luck with NAPA branded alternators.

Wish I could say the same - my 4.5 Coupe ate 'em like popcorn. Went through four in six months. One bearing failure, two voltage regulators croaked. At least it got to where I could change them in 20 minutes, not like on N*.
 
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you took the battery off and taped it to your bicycle and pedaled it to the parts store when you could have jumped the car off and drove it there? did I read that right? hope you get it fixed. TexasCadillac
 

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yeah. no one was around. heh. i lived in ny for a while and got used to hauling all kinds of crap around while riding a bike. but yeah. cured. jump start. good idea.

strange thing is. the next day - today - the car starts. i drove it to a garage down the block and had them test the battery again. and they also found it to be charged up ok. it seemed like 14 something volts with the car running and 12 something volts with the car off.

it runs pretty rough though. and SES light is on.
 

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it runs pretty rough though. and SES light is on.
Pull codes.

This must be catching - took my wife's Concorde to the car wash yesterday and heard it whir/whine all the way there and back. Pry bar stethoscope and I hear the alternator bearings screaming. Guess she gets another Christmas present...
 

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ah.. sorry this is going farther away from topic of this thread.. but anyway,

Car starts only intermittently in P but seems to start consistently in N.

any ideas?

is it safe and/or harmless to keep starting the car in N?..
 

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ah.. sorry this is going farther away from topic of this thread.. but anyway,

Car starts only intermittently in P but seems to start consistently in N.

any ideas?

is it safe and/or harmless to keep starting the car in N?..
Neutral safety switch. Should be on the transmission somewhere. On my 90 it sat right on top on the driver's side but yours is a whole different car so it may have been moved. FSM would be useful here. Check the connector to ensure its clean and seated properly or the switch may be going bad. Other than the inconvenience there should not be a problem starting in 'N'.
 

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hm.. have continued to procrastinate on this as usual..

thanks. have been sometimes starting in P and starting in N when if that doesn't work..

when starting in P those clicks.. do they drain the battery or something over time? should i just always start in N until i get things fixed and not bother trying it in P?
 

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The clicks are probably the starter soleniod not getting enough voltage through the NSS, just like if the battery was low. Not overly good for the starter because if its low voltage it will try to draw more current, carboning up the connectors and possibly prematurely wearing the solenoid. I would not start it in P until the problem is fixed.
 

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is this part correct?

ACDELCO Part # D2231C {#12450042}
SWITCH,PARK/NEU POSN

PNP switch is another name for it i'm assuming..

The manual says.. "rotate transaxle manual shaft to "N" range"..
haven't taken stuff apart and looked at it.. is there some indication on the shaft so i know where to turn it? or is this done with the shift lever inside the car? if not.. will i need some special tool to turn the shaft with?

it also says:
"rotate position switch so service gage pin can be installed.."
what pin?

is there any other precaution i need to take or other.. known.. screw-ups i should avoid making? like is it possible to adjust the switch wrong and allow the car to start in gear or something..
 
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