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2001 DTS
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
B0249 - Heater/Defrost/AC Door Range Error

Started car yesterday it had been raing so I turned on defrost and it made some clunking noise. Well now it is in defrost mode and will not come out of it.
Can anyone tell me how to fix this problem? I'm in Florida and I need A/C coming out of the front vents :crybaby:

2001 DTS
 

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WOW looks to a common problem start here LOL

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-deville-1985-2005-including-1985/112857-2002-deville-hvac-module-removal.html

Merry Christmas! I'll see if I can attach the actual diagnostic charts.
B0249

CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The mode actuator is an electronic stepper motor. The HVAC control module (IPM) supplies power and ground to the actuator. The IPM controls the direction of the mode actuator by changing the polarity of the control circuits. When the actuator reaches its desired position, both circuits are fixed to the same value (9.5 to 12 volts ). The IPM determines the door position by counting pulses (voltage fluctuations) caused by the brush to commutator action generated during normal motor operation. The IPM monitors a voltage drop across an internal resistance to detect the pulses. The IPM converts the pulses to counts with a range of 0 to 255 counts.

When a calibration or recalibration procedure is performed, the IPM calculates the mode door travel range. The IPM commands the actuator to each extreme position and counts the total number of pulses. The IPM compares the total number of pulses to calibrated limits. If the total pulse count is less than or equal to the maximum calibrated limit and greater than or equal to the minimum calibrated limit, then the calibration is considered successful.

CONDITIONS FOR RUNNING THE DTC
The IPM will run the DTC when either of the following conditions are met.


The IPM has completed a calibration/recalibration of the mode actuator.
The IPM commands the actuator to move.
CONDITIONS FOR SETTING THE DTC
The IPM will set this DTC if either of the following conditions are true.


The mode actuator fails calibration/recalibration due to an over travel or under travel condition. (The IPM does not detect the calibrated number of total pulse counts during a travel range check.)
The IPM determines that the actual door position does not equal the commanded door position. (The IPM commands the door to move but does not see the expected number of pulses between positions.)
ACTION TAKEN WHEN THE DTC SETS


The IPM will attempt to make use of whatever range is still available.
The IPM will recalibrate the mode actuator each time the ignition switch is turned ON.
CONDITIONS FOR CLEARING THE MIL/DTC


The DTC will become history if the IPM no longer detects a failure.
The history DTC will clear after 50 fault free ignition cycles.
The DTC can be cleared with a scan tool.
DIAGNOSTIC AIDS


Inspect the mode door and mode actuator for the following conditions:
A misaligned mode actuator. Refer to Mode Actuator Replacement
Broken or binding linkages or mode door
Obstruction that prevents the mode door from operating within its full range of motion
Missing seals to the mode door
Misaligned seals to the mode door
Refer to Testing for Intermittent and Poor Connections in Diagnostic Aids.
TEST DESCRIPTION

Steps 1-9



Steps 10-13



The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table.


This step verifies that the IPM is able to command the mode actuator through its full range of motion.
This step verifies that the IPM has successfully calibrated the mode actuator.
If the actuator does not move at all, the problem is likely to be the drive circuitry within the IPM, the actuator, or the wiring harness. If the actuator does move, but not within its full range of motion, the problem is likely to be a mechanical binding of the mode door or mode door linkage.
This step drives the actuator to the vent position. The mode actuator will not move if the mode door is in already at the extreme position.
This step drives the actuator to the defrost position.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well I have had it work twice now. But now for the big question how do I get to the door to test it??????????????????? This is a DTS do I have to take the center console out?
Anybody that has done this before please chime in.
It sucks going home sweating like a dog and having cold feet. :alchi:
 

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That actuator is what I call the "mode door actuator".

To replace it you are supposed to remove the entire dash.
It can be done without having to do that however you have to have some good tools, a strong back, patience, and you have to know the secret.

The replacement actuator comes with a large cam plate and a black plastic bracket.
If you remove the bracket from the HVAC case, you will have to remove the dash to reassemble it.
There are 3 screws that hold the actuator to the bracket. Simply remove those screws and pry (gently) the actuator off the cam and plate.
Pry apart the replacement pieces and then install the actuator on the existing cam plate and bolt it back down.

Your current actuator is bad, it needs replaced.
Get the part number off the old one when you go buy a new one.
To access it you'll have to remove some stuff.
If you want to try it yourself I'll post more information.
 

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2000 Deville
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That actuator is what I call the "mode door actuator".

To replace it you are supposed to remove the entire dash.
It can be done without having to do that however you have to have some good tools, a strong back, patience, and you have to know the secret.

The replacement actuator comes with a large cam plate and a black plastic bracket.
If you remove the bracket from the HVAC case, you will have to remove the dash to reassemble it.
There are 3 screws that hold the actuator to the bracket. Simply remove those screws and pry (gently) the actuator off the cam and plate.
Pry apart the replacement pieces and then install the actuator on the existing cam plate and bolt it back down.

Your current actuator is bad, it needs replaced.
Get the part number off the old one when you go buy a new one.
To access it you'll have to remove some stuff.
If you want to try it yourself I'll post more information.
I had the same problem, this is the part I ordered through Rock Auto: AC Delco # 1572654.

I didn't have to remove the dash, just the kneeboards, the trim under the stereo and then remove the three small screws from the actuator with a 5.5mm socket with a universal joint using a 1/4" ratchet. The actuator should pop off the plate with a little force. I just pulled out with my hand. As ewill3rd said, on the new actuator that you get from the dealer or rock auto, just remove the plate from the actuator and then replace the actuator. It didn't take me that long, maybe half hour or so. The hard part is lying with your back on the floor of the drivers side.
 

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One more thing, the dealer will probably charge you over $100 for that part, Rock Auto had it for about $45. Sure I waited about a week for the part, but it was still alot cheaper.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I really could use detailed instruction to replace this part. My DTS does have the Nav system , I don't know if this complicates the situation or not.

Thanks for everyones imput.:)
 

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White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
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A FSM will have the detailed instructions you need. Ebay is your friend.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Could anybody give me some insight into whether I will need to remove the tunnel where the gear shift is located? And does the Navigation system present problems of it's own?
I don't want to remove the dash if I don't have to, but I'm going to have to do something pretty quick it is hotter than hades down here. :thehand:

Thanks in advance for any insight you can give me. :worship:
 

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You hardly have to remove anything.
The hush panel and the brake switches are all I usually remove.
The rest is getting your hand up there and finding the right tools to fit in the hole you have to work in.
 

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Hello. I am having this same issue. Air will only blow out the floor vents and the defrost vents. When I start the car aI get a clicking sound for about 15 seconds. The stealership told me that I need a new door actuator. I have a 2003 Deville DTS with NightVision and Navigation.

Phatom.. Did you successfully replace yours? If so how did you do it?

ewill3rd.. Where can I get directions to do this with out taking the entire dash down?

Will the Nav or Nightvision add any complications?
 

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Someone bump this in a day or two, or three... :D
I'll post some more detailed instructions.
 

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Someone bump this in a day or two, or three... :D
I'll post some more detailed instructions.
Bump... I know you said in a day or two... I figured I would give ya a few months... :) I still need to get this fixed. Do you mind posting up those detailed instructions?

Thanks In Advance.
 

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There is a trim piece around the glove box door, pull it straight forward to disengage the clips and remove it.
Open the glove box door, look for the torx screws... I forget how many. I think they are T-15.
Slide the glove box out and disconnect the valet switch connector and the light.

To your left (center of the vehicle) you'll see the actuator mounted on the side of the HVAC case.
Get the number off of that and check with a parts house to make sure you get the right one.
(using the old number helps)

Disconnect the electrical connector on the actuator.
Remove the 2 (I think... maybe 3) 5.5 mm head screws that hold the actuator to the case.
Pull the actuator outboard (to the right) and remove it.
Install the new actuator onto the shaft, this may take some moving around to get it engaged properly.
DO NOT RECONNECT THE ACTUATOR'S ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR until AFTER it is properly installed.
Connecting it and "testing" it to see if it moves BEFORE it is installed will ruin it... DON'T!
Reinstall the screws and reinstall all the stuff you took off.

Clear the code and enjoy the ride.
Pretty easy job.
 

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I can't believe it, I just did it. I've been procrastinating for many, many months. I drive a 2003 Cadillac Deville.

For others to know, I removed both knee boards, the black cover thing behind the driver's knee board (2 screws), and the section below the stereo (4 screws). It's located under the stereo, accessible from the driver's side floor area. There's an a/c vent for your feet that's in the way, look behind it and you'll see "CB" on the actuator's white sticker.

Grab your replacement (AC Delco # 1572654) and practice what you're going to do in the car. Remove the 3 screws, releasing the actuator from the black plate, and pull like you mean it to separate the actuator from the white whatever. I happend to grab the Skil 009-154-SKL driver set on w00t, this type of tool will be very useful. A regular screw driver will be way too long, a stubby one might work.

Okay go into the car, feel around for it, remove the three screws, get on your back and prepare for a fight. Removing my actuator from the white whatever took many many tries but it gave in. Try to remember the orientation it was in when you took it off so you can put the new one on in the same way. Also, I would unplug it before the fight, and plug it in before you attach the new one.

You're not going to be able to see it as you're unscrewing it, and I found a good position to reach the screws was either on my back with my right hand or on my stomach, with legs out the door, and my left hand.

I think that's it. I tried to write everything I remember to make it as easy as possible before going in and figuring it out yourself. Whoever was talking about the glovebox is wrong, I went down this wild goose hunt first. Feel free to ask questions. Oh, and thanks so much to everybody who posted here. I followed ram8498's post the most.

-Eric
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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same procedure
- BUT we may be talking about two different actuators - DEFROST air (B 0249) or air to the rear console panel (B 0429).
 

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White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
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Not sure if you'll have to remove the center console or not. Only one way to find out.
 
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