I've seen some of the posts out there of splicing here and there. I've seen someone soldier a femail jack directly to mother board of a bose radio in a nissan Bose head unit. To me, that looks easier and a lot less wiring. Has anyone else done this, cause I would figure the spots to soldier would be different on a GM Bose. thanks
Aux Jack input
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1997 Cadillac STS (BOSE w/AUX In, Massage Seats, URPAS, "Z")
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Hard wired AUX input can be added to ANY Cadillac '96 and newer relatively easily. Depending on the audio system it involve either hacking into the audio processor (base sound system) or adding an external adapter harness with a small module (some 2 micro relays) for BOSE non NAV systems. All NAV systems have native aux input (just not wired).
IF you have BOSE non NAV then here:
Mount the micro relays on a PCB and insert it in a project box (about the size of a match box). The result is something like this:
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Where is the yellow circle you need to solder the Jack connector as indicated in the picture above.
If you have BOSE w/DVD Denso NAV then just click on my ID and follow the Visitor Messages (all the way to the Visitor page). You will find ALL details you need:
P.S. Just click on the pictures for more details.
IF you have BOSE non NAV then here:
Mount the micro relays on a PCB and insert it in a project box (about the size of a match box). The result is something like this:
If you have BOSE w/DVD Denso NAV then just click on my ID and follow the Visitor Messages (all the way to the Visitor page). You will find ALL details you need:
P.S. Just click on the pictures for more details.
1999 Eldorado 2000 Jeep TJ 2000 Ford SD 4X4 Diesel crew cab
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372 Posts
What about an adapter such as this for a non Bose unit all I have is a tape player I hate it want my ipod. Any ideas?
1997 Cadillac STS (BOSE w/AUX In, Massage Seats, URPAS, "Z")
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6,405 Posts
Non BOSE cars are super cheap to do the AUX conversion ($5 or so).
All you need is the jack connector you can see in the following picture:
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It involves removing the HU and opening it in order to get access to the main board (the audio processor).
Here is all you need to know (read the whole thread - I made an error at some point and later into the thread I mentioned what is the correction).
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The result is this:
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Also I can help you with hacking into the display to show when AUX in is inserted. This is not easy to do, but for the passionate ones worth it. You can actually get the text "A IN" (large but complicated) or just turn the "WX" (super simple).
Here is how the sound processor looks like.
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All feel free to contact me (PM, or message in the Visitor Message page) with ANY question about AUX input to OEM Cadillac stereos (BOSE/Base) just don't ask me about aftermarket crap, I don't like the subject.
I have posted all the information you need for any application in various threads (perhaps I should put something in the TECH TIPS when I have time).
In any situation you don't need to replace/add ANY equipment (like CD changer and such), it does not affects ANY of the original functions (like chimes, memory...) and you have FULL control over the AUX signal (Volume, Bass, Treble, Balance, Fade, DSP - for BOSE). Also steering wheel controls work just fine.
By the way I have my original non BOSE HU in some box, has AUX in and is yours just make me a offer.
Currently I have BOSE sound and still working on retrofitting the DVD Denso OEM NAV in my car. The good news is it works (actually I can install it even in OBDI cars (YEAH!!!!) but it has some compromises I am working to overcome.
All you need is the jack connector you can see in the following picture:
Here is all you need to know (read the whole thread - I made an error at some point and later into the thread I mentioned what is the correction).
Here is how the sound processor looks like.
All feel free to contact me (PM, or message in the Visitor Message page) with ANY question about AUX input to OEM Cadillac stereos (BOSE/Base) just don't ask me about aftermarket crap, I don't like the subject.
I have posted all the information you need for any application in various threads (perhaps I should put something in the TECH TIPS when I have time).
In any situation you don't need to replace/add ANY equipment (like CD changer and such), it does not affects ANY of the original functions (like chimes, memory...) and you have FULL control over the AUX signal (Volume, Bass, Treble, Balance, Fade, DSP - for BOSE). Also steering wheel controls work just fine.
By the way I have my original non BOSE HU in some box, has AUX in and is yours just make me a offer.
Currently I have BOSE sound and still working on retrofitting the DVD Denso OEM NAV in my car. The good news is it works (actually I can install it even in OBDI cars (YEAH!!!!) but it has some compromises I am working to overcome.
Thanks for the info. So you're saying I can't do a Bose system straight to the mother board. I need to do the adapter wire harness instead, which would probably be easier anyhow. The micro relays....I can just get them at a radioshack? Is there any sort of specifications on them that I need to know? Thanks again.
1997 Cadillac STS (BOSE w/AUX In, Massage Seats, URPAS, "Z")
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6,405 Posts
In this thread you can find pictures with the micro-relays and some more information
As you can see in the schematic I posted in post #2, the 2 gray things are the relays. Basically should have dual NO/NC contacts (each) and should operate at 12V DC.
If you follow my posts you will see a picture of the PCB I made (you need to etch it yourself).
Yes, is correct for the BOSE systems you don't need to open the HU, you just attach this box between the HU and the car harness. SUPER easy to install, but is little more labor involved (as you need to make the box and PCB and such).
Non-BOSE requires opening the HU and soldering stuff inside. Anybody who is in my area and has base sound, just come by and I will AUX input your HU for FREEEEEE (as time allows me, just purchase the jack connector ~$3).
As you can see in the schematic I posted in post #2, the 2 gray things are the relays. Basically should have dual NO/NC contacts (each) and should operate at 12V DC.
If you follow my posts you will see a picture of the PCB I made (you need to etch it yourself).
Yes, is correct for the BOSE systems you don't need to open the HU, you just attach this box between the HU and the car harness. SUPER easy to install, but is little more labor involved (as you need to make the box and PCB and such).
Non-BOSE requires opening the HU and soldering stuff inside. Anybody who is in my area and has base sound, just come by and I will AUX input your HU for FREEEEEE (as time allows me, just purchase the jack connector ~$3).
2001 DTS(140K), 2000 ETC(284K), 1990 allante( 80K)
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1,915 Posts
stick this, so people can stop asking about it!
1997 Cadillac STS (BOSE w/AUX In, Massage Seats, URPAS, "Z")
Joined
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6,405 Posts
For the people who are relatively electronically inclined and have access to a good soldering station here are the step by step instructions how to add a hard wired AUX input to your OEM base ’96 and up sound system:
1. You need to remove the HU (or some may refer it as stereo). There are plenty of post about how to remove the stereo (see here how)
2. You need to remove the top and the bottom covers of the HU case:
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3. Rest the HU on the up right position and remove the tape module by disconnecting the 2 connectors and removing the 3 screws shown in the picture bellow
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4. Remove the volume knob (stereo in OFF position) by pulling the knob straight out then unscrew the nut behind the volume knob:
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5. Remove the fort fascia of the HU by carefully releasing the 6 (2 on top and 2 on each side) very fragile clips. Use small shims to hold the clips unhooked, when all 6 have shims pull the top side of the fascia out just enough so the clips are half way out then turn the HU upside-down and observe the other 2 clips that need to release by pressing in. Once released carefully pull the fascia out (comes out with buttons and all).
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6. It is recommended to remove the front fascia metal backing to get better access to the audio processor. This is done by removing the 4 screws (2 on each side) and the one single screw on the bottom of the main PCB (on the passenger side of the HU visible with the HU upside-down and bottom cover removed – can not be missed). Then is a matter of disconnecting the Volume/ON-OFF connector from the HU main PCB end and releasing the front PCB controls connector witch disconnects from the front fascia when removed but remains attached to the metal backing plate due to the plastic sleeve.
7. At this point you have plenty of space to access the audio processor. Notice on the driver’s side of the HU a heat sink with 2 chips attached, those are the final amplifiers. On the middle of the plate is a large metal cover and on the drivers side is another PCB with a metal cover (this vertical PCB is the Radio module). Now that you are familiarized with the mother board, looking to the HU (or what ever remained of it) as you are in the diver seat on the area between the big metal cover in the center of the board and the heat sink with the final amplifiers locate a square 32 pins chip with 8 pins on each side. See the picture below in the top right medallion is a view of the mother board and the chip is highlighted with a yellow circle.
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8. Follow EXACTLY the diagram above to connect the jack connector to the sound processor. In the top side of the diagram you have a very accurate representation of the components around the sound processor chip so you can easily identify the points where you need to attach the wires to the jack connector (again I can NOT express enough how important is to connect exactly as I indicated in the image or your HU will stop working completely – no more sound!). The red tracts labeled Left/Right channels are the audio tracts. VERY IMPORTANT look carefully where the red wires connect to the audio processor area. Notice the YELLOW conductive tracts are? You need to carefully cut them off scratching the PCB with the tip of a stronger needle. Be very careful so the needle does not damage anything else and also verify there is no more contact once the conduit tract was cut. Verify with the ohmmeter to find a GND connection point for the GND pin of the jack connector. A GND point is any point that measure 1 ohm or less from the HU cover or the large metal cover on the center of the PCB (hint, see were the cover is soldered on the PCB).
9. This step is optional: on the bottom side of the image you will surely recognize the HU display. Notice the green lines? If you connect wires as indicated (with the green lines) then you have the convenience of turning ON the WX logo on the screen every time the AUX connector jack is in. Just match the display pins with the ones shown in my diagram.
10. I would strongly recommend to locate the jack connector on the front fascia on the right side of the tape EJECT button (see the picture in my previous posts). It is the perfect spot to locate the jack connector (is like it was designed for this). First remove the PCB from the fascia (is a matter of 8 easily accessible screws) so you can see the back of the plastic face where the jack will be located. You will need to drill a hole in the fascia (measure 10 times drill once). Start with a small M3 drill bit then gradually increase the diameter until the hole is just large enough so the jack ring fit snugly (some inside trimming of the plastic fascia is required to bring the ring flush with the outer surface). The Jack connector is about 2 mm larger than the space behind the plastic fascia so you need to cut a small port in the front PCB directly behind the location of the jack connector (again measure 10 times cut once). If you look at the PCB there is no circuit in that area is just a blank area (shielded). Then jack connector is to be mounted on a PCB cut to exactly the same dimensions as the pin area of the jack connector and my recommendation is to solder this small PCB on the front PCB. Make sure is flush with the front PCB so you can mount the fascia back on the metal backing.
Use 26 AWG wires for all connections and try to keep the wires no longer than 15 inches. It is important to use the IDENTICAL jack connector shown in the diagram. Should you not be able to find one then locate one that has at least 5 pins (one GND and 4 – 2 per channel). Using a ohmmeter identify the pin on each channel that has continuity to the jack male connector corresponding channel (when inserted). That pin is connected to the capacitor side and the other one connects to the chip output. Here is the chip pin description (in the same position as in the diagram above):
![]()
Please note the chip is covered with a layer of silicon. You will have to carefully clean up the silicon using a small blade or a needle.
DO NOT attempt this unless you are SUPER confident in your electronics abilities or you can permanently damage the HU.
1. You need to remove the HU (or some may refer it as stereo). There are plenty of post about how to remove the stereo (see here how)
2. You need to remove the top and the bottom covers of the HU case:
7. At this point you have plenty of space to access the audio processor. Notice on the driver’s side of the HU a heat sink with 2 chips attached, those are the final amplifiers. On the middle of the plate is a large metal cover and on the drivers side is another PCB with a metal cover (this vertical PCB is the Radio module). Now that you are familiarized with the mother board, looking to the HU (or what ever remained of it) as you are in the diver seat on the area between the big metal cover in the center of the board and the heat sink with the final amplifiers locate a square 32 pins chip with 8 pins on each side. See the picture below in the top right medallion is a view of the mother board and the chip is highlighted with a yellow circle.
8. Follow EXACTLY the diagram above to connect the jack connector to the sound processor. In the top side of the diagram you have a very accurate representation of the components around the sound processor chip so you can easily identify the points where you need to attach the wires to the jack connector (again I can NOT express enough how important is to connect exactly as I indicated in the image or your HU will stop working completely – no more sound!). The red tracts labeled Left/Right channels are the audio tracts. VERY IMPORTANT look carefully where the red wires connect to the audio processor area. Notice the YELLOW conductive tracts are? You need to carefully cut them off scratching the PCB with the tip of a stronger needle. Be very careful so the needle does not damage anything else and also verify there is no more contact once the conduit tract was cut. Verify with the ohmmeter to find a GND connection point for the GND pin of the jack connector. A GND point is any point that measure 1 ohm or less from the HU cover or the large metal cover on the center of the PCB (hint, see were the cover is soldered on the PCB).
9. This step is optional: on the bottom side of the image you will surely recognize the HU display. Notice the green lines? If you connect wires as indicated (with the green lines) then you have the convenience of turning ON the WX logo on the screen every time the AUX connector jack is in. Just match the display pins with the ones shown in my diagram.
10. I would strongly recommend to locate the jack connector on the front fascia on the right side of the tape EJECT button (see the picture in my previous posts). It is the perfect spot to locate the jack connector (is like it was designed for this). First remove the PCB from the fascia (is a matter of 8 easily accessible screws) so you can see the back of the plastic face where the jack will be located. You will need to drill a hole in the fascia (measure 10 times drill once). Start with a small M3 drill bit then gradually increase the diameter until the hole is just large enough so the jack ring fit snugly (some inside trimming of the plastic fascia is required to bring the ring flush with the outer surface). The Jack connector is about 2 mm larger than the space behind the plastic fascia so you need to cut a small port in the front PCB directly behind the location of the jack connector (again measure 10 times cut once). If you look at the PCB there is no circuit in that area is just a blank area (shielded). Then jack connector is to be mounted on a PCB cut to exactly the same dimensions as the pin area of the jack connector and my recommendation is to solder this small PCB on the front PCB. Make sure is flush with the front PCB so you can mount the fascia back on the metal backing.
Use 26 AWG wires for all connections and try to keep the wires no longer than 15 inches. It is important to use the IDENTICAL jack connector shown in the diagram. Should you not be able to find one then locate one that has at least 5 pins (one GND and 4 – 2 per channel). Using a ohmmeter identify the pin on each channel that has continuity to the jack male connector corresponding channel (when inserted). That pin is connected to the capacitor side and the other one connects to the chip output. Here is the chip pin description (in the same position as in the diagram above):
DO NOT attempt this unless you are SUPER confident in your electronics abilities or you can permanently damage the HU.
1997 Cadillac STS (BOSE w/AUX In, Massage Seats, URPAS, "Z")
Joined
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6,405 Posts
My local electronics part supplier (Sayal electronics). The connectors were mixed in some bin with others. For non BOSE you don't really need the bottom piece (see the diagram) unless you want to have the display thing (that part is optional), no need for microrelays either.
I did mine so I could have my CarPC plugged in all the time. Whenever my CarPC send audio out, a sensor on one of the audio lines does the switching. No sound for 15 seconds and it switches back.
I briefly read over this thread as I just began doing research to install an aux jack. I have a completely stock 2000 Eldorado ETC with the Bose system. No changer, but a single cd player (and cassette) in the dash. Only 18,000 miles too.....so I'm wanting to be very clean in any changes I make to the vehicle.
My question is....is all the information I need for a Bose system displayed above as well? I skimmed over it and saw non-bose, and did not see the exact control panel as I have installed. So basic question without reading over all the details, sorry.
Also, I see a lot of different/similar models together. Which model is most like a 2000 Eldorado ETC for reference purposes?
Thanks for any help!!
My question is....is all the information I need for a Bose system displayed above as well? I skimmed over it and saw non-bose, and did not see the exact control panel as I have installed. So basic question without reading over all the details, sorry.
Also, I see a lot of different/similar models together. Which model is most like a 2000 Eldorado ETC for reference purposes?
Thanks for any help!!
I have a Bose no NAV but what wires do i connect the harness adapter to and I cant find the micro relays you have and what exzactly is a pcb?
My email is [email protected] I really want to do this.
My email is [email protected] I really want to do this.
Had one of these it broke :\ then my friend recommended a monster one off e bay 7$ what i noticed it sounded much better because it has gold platting on the jack: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Monster-iCarplay-800-Cassette-Tape-Adaptor-3ft-iPod-iPhone-MP3-Aux-Zune-Droid-/110949110338?pt=Other_MP3_Player_Accessories&hash=item19d5151242 BTW: Monster is the maker of BEATS AUDIO By Dr. Dre![]()
Walmart, $10. Works great for me!!
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