Have you checked the power steering fluid? Is the reservoir full to the appropriate level?

Another possibility is a bad ball joint, but you said the "entire front passenger assembly was replaced," so I would think the ball joint is new. It is possible the new ball joint wasn't lubricated properly, though (I've done that before on my own car ). A bad or unlubricated ball joint will make the steering "stick" and not return to center like it should.

I don't know what sort of impact was involved in the crash you had, but it's also possible the steering rack itself got damaged and that wasn't noted by the shop doing the repair work. If the car wasn't driveable initially then they may not have had any way to check if the rack was affected or not. Was the rack replaced when the other repair work was done?

 

Have you checked the power steering fluid? Is the reservoir full to the appropriate level?

P/S is electric assist.
OP: Might need calibration after the repair/alignment, not sure how that works...

 

Thanks all who replied! Car wasn't driveable after accident. If rack was damaged shouldn't that have been discovered during realignment? I'm about to take to dealership and see what they say. When driving down highway basically faster speed equals tighter steering, but if normal is 50% then my car is giving me like 95%. If it's a decent repair I'll fix, but if they have to pull the motor, no thanks!

 

If your steering is acting differently since the accident, it MUST be fixed. Steering and brakes are fundamental safety systems and acting differently after an accident is a symptom you cannot ignore. If insurance was involved in the original accident/repair then that is still involved. And if you knowingly continue driving a car with fundamental problems (and you are creating a paper trail with the dealership) then you are exposing yourself to significant liability if you are in another accident.

Or bottom line, getting this fixed properly isn't optional.

Rodger

 

I hydroplaned my 2013 AWD 2.0T ATS and smashed the front end into the concrete barricade. I ended up with a entire front clip replacement. including the drivers side suspension. (I used a donor car I bought, and why I still have other ongoing repairs)... Long story short, on my vehicle, the rack and pinion stripped a tooth off one of the gears, I had a "dead spot" in the steering for awhile until I got it replaced. It would "line up" if I drove it in reverse with the wheel turned, and then resume off-alignment after a short period of driving and steering. If this sounds similar I would consider replacing the rack & pinion.

Its not a cheap, or easy fix, I had it quoted at a few different shops to get it done, (Labor only -> $1,100 - $1,700 here in Houston TX)

I have an extra one, new in box. I ended up shipped two parts from the supplier on their own fault, they told me to keep it. Let me know if you want it. It's a Detroit Axle re-manufactured part, never opened. I can part for probably $700-$800 or so, I'll check the current price on it. I'm not 100% sure if this part will match exactly, probably.. you'll need to check. I think the 2013 and 2015 had the same rack.