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2013 ATS / 2016 ATS-V
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They did alot thanks! I was saying to myself how the heck did he take those pics lol I thought you may have pulled the seat out in order to get it back far enough.
 

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2013 Luxury ATS 2.0T Manual
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698 Posts
As someone who loves to find new/different uses for everything and with a manual ATS, I can't help but wonder what I could use these paddles for in my car (if they can even be used for anything else).
 

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2013 ATS 2.0T RWD, DP, Intake, HPT, CC
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2,404 Posts
As someone who loves to find new/different uses for everything and with a manual ATS, I can't help but wonder what I could use these paddles for in my car (if they can even be used for anything else).
You could set one side to be your nitrous switch. :cool:
 
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Just did this retrofit on a 2018 2.0t 8A Luxury. Works fine, no problems or issues (other than me being dumb and managing to lock myself out of the car in the process, with the coax cable connectors - apparently for the Antennae - disconnected from the body harness connector block. Then, after getting the drivers door open using the physical Key, having the alarm go off with no way to shut That off.. Lesson learned - disconnect the battery before doing this..). Thanks for all of those who posted instructions and photographs, it made the "figuring out" part of the job easy.

For anyone who is on the fence about doing this - it's easy, if you have ever turned any kind of a wrench, and simple enough to "undo" if there was ever a reason, such as a warranty issue. It is Not necessary to acquire the right terminal connector for the BCM harness block - simply tinning the end of a wire and inserting it works fine. Splicing the other end at the main body harness connector is not difficult either. I went ahead and Soldered mine, to be certain of the connection, but simply splicing it should be fine as well.

The physical process of installing the new Wheel (with paddles) is also not difficult. In fact, with no need for a wheel Puller, it's about as simple as you could ask for. Do be careful with the Torx bolt that holds the wheel on there, though - do Not strip out that torx. It's a fairly soft material that is used for that bolt - it Can be ruined if you are not paying attention, and then getting the wheel off will be Much more "challenging". I know, I did that to the new/used wheel that I bought, which came as part of a column assembly still all bolted together. I destroyed that bolt and then had to chisel it loose to get the wheel off the column. I was a Lot more careful when taking the wheel out of the Car, believe me :)
 

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ATS 2.0T AWD Black/Black
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Just did this retrofit on a 2018 2.0t 8A Luxury. Works fine, no problems or issues (other than me being dumb and managing to lock myself out of the car in the process, with the coax cable connectors - apparently for the Antennae - disconnected from the body harness connector block. Then, after getting the drivers door open using the physical Key, having the alarm go off with no way to shut That off.. Lesson learned - disconnect the battery before doing this..). Thanks for all of those who posted instructions and photographs, it made the "figuring out" part of the job easy.

For anyone who is on the fence about doing this - it's easy, if you have ever turned any kind of a wrench, and simple enough to "undo" if there was ever a reason, such as a warranty issue. It is Not necessary to acquire the right terminal connector for the BCM harness block - simply tinning the end of a wire and inserting it works fine. Splicing the other end at the main body harness connector is not difficult either. I went ahead and Soldered mine, to be certain of the connection, but simply splicing it should be fine as well.

The physical process of installing the new Wheel (with paddles) is also not difficult. In fact, with no need for a wheel Puller, it's about as simple as you could ask for. Do be careful with the Torx bolt that holds the wheel on there, though - do Not strip out that torx. It's a fairly soft material that is used for that bolt - it Can be ruined if you are not paying attention, and then getting the wheel off will be Much more "challenging". I know, I did that to the new/used wheel that I bought, which came as part of a column assembly still all bolted together. I destroyed that bolt and then had to chisel it loose to get the wheel off the column. I was a Lot more careful when taking the wheel out of the Car, believe me
Awesome! Any pics?
 

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2016 ATS 3.6 Performance Coupe AWD; 2002 Ford Thunderbird
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398 Posts
I recommend disconnecting the battery any time you're doing work on the steering wheel. A lot less chance of accidentally tripping the airbag.
ABSOLUTELY!! The first thing I did when installing my suede wheel.
 

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2018 ATS 2.0T RWD Auto, Luxury, Safety&Security
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6 Posts
I took no pictures while doing this job - the instructions by the OP and the photobucket images from Goofygoober are plenty and more than sufficient.

Disconnecting the battery really isn't needed if Only messing with the steering wheel air bag. Nothing there that would trigger the things or make them "go off". Still - messing with the x275 harness connector will result in so many circuits being open that disconnecting the battery is a darn good idea.

Even with the battery connected be aware that while you have the x275 connector (and the coax plugs) disconnected you will also have no key fob signal reaching the car, and many circuits Within the body that are open - lots of things will not work. The Alarm will certainly function however..

Otherwise it's all pretty straightforward. The BCM itself is mounted on the firewall up under the ducting for the heat/A/C system, upside down (plugs pointed Down). Just slides into a plastic mount there. It does need to be taken Out of that mount and flipped over to see/get to the connectors for "stuffing" the wire lead you have to add there. Also - my 2018 Luxury has another module that is located on/attached to the hush panel there under the glove box. It comes loose when the small "door" is released with taking out the retaining screws for the hush panel. It also has to be all unplugged to get it out of the way - the harness connectors come down from above, and the module itself won't fit up thru the openings in the hush panel.

As others have said - the lump of foam that is in there under the carpet is truly amazing..
 

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2005 CTS-V, 2013 ATS 2.0T
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245 Posts
I am buying an used steering wheel with the paddles. It has the heated steering wheel button and adaptive cruise control (?) but my car does not. Will that affect anything, other than having some useless buttons on my steering wheel?
 

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Hi,

For the folks that did this - do you have a picture of the splines on the shaft ? need to know the count. thanks.
 

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anyone? :)
If not I guess need to take my wheel off :)
Hey john,

No need to worry about the splines. All ATS's use the same spline(from my experiences). I currently have a 18' ATS-V suede paddle wheel, previously a 15' leather paddle, installed on my 13'. To make it even easier, the steering hub and boss have a flat. Only one way to install, again no need to worry about clocking or counting the splines.

Please follow all recommended safety precautions when working with or around SRS systems

There is also no need to unlock/unplug the harness connector as seen or mentioned in the previously linked pic/gallery. There are footnotes below the pics if you want more info as well. Just use the best way you are able to connect a jumper on the wire from the terminated lead, to the BCM plug. A tinned wire is stiff enough to push into the bare spot on the plug and make a solid connection with the pin inside BCM module.

Good luck, enjoy, and get ready to "finger" bang out those shifts...
 

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So to wire this, all you need to do is connect terminal 88 on the x275 to terminal 21 at the X3?

And if the terminals have wires in the connectors, just tap them to make terminal 88 and 21 connected?

Do you need a new clock spring if you want the heated feature?

Seems like the hardest part is accessing the wires.

(Mine is a 2017, if that makes any difference.)
 

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2018 ATS 2.0T RWD Auto, Luxury, Safety&Security
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So to wire this, all you need to do is connect terminal 88 on the x275 to terminal 21 at the X3?

And if the terminals have wires in the connectors, just tap them to make terminal 88 and 21 connected?

Do you need a new clock spring if you want the heated feature?

Seems like the hardest part is accessing the wires.

(Mine is a 2017, if that makes any difference.)
Yes, that is All the wiring that is needed to make shift paddles work, connecting those two terminals. The harness connectors up under the wheel itself already have the correct stuff in them, nothing else has to be changed.

As for making a heated wheel work.. If your car/column does not have the harness plugs for connecting the actual heaters (embedded in the rim of the wheel you are putting on) and switch then yes, you will need the correct clockspring assembly to Get them. Then it becomes a question of what Else does the particular car not have in the way of wiring to the clockspring and column. I do not know if a car that was not originally built with/for a heated steering wheel is missing anything else in the harnesses, or if everything necessary is already there.

I actually had the opposite problem when I put the paddles into mine - I Had the heated wheel with the original (non-paddle) wheel, but the wheel With paddles that I bought is Not heated. Which isn't a big deal here in Florida..
 

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Thank you so much for the reply!

I have a 2018 ATS-V steering wheel coming. It's heated with paddles where as my car has neither feature. Seller claims plug and play for the heat from non-heated, but I'm weary of that. I think I was reading that around 2016 they went to one clockspring assembly that has all that's needed. We will see(mine is a 2017).

I'll get the wheel on in the next week or two and report back. Paddles I may wait till spring since it's already cold here in MI.
 

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Well, I learned the hard way that there is no such thing as an OEM heated ATS-V steering wheel. Bought one off eBay from a seller with multiple brand new OEM "heated" AtS-V steering wheels listed. Needless to say, it's not heated.

Going to have to source a heated wheel. eBay has slim pickings right now. Guess I'll ask the dealership. Rockauto has them at worst.

Forgot to check if the clockspring in my 2017 non-heated has the plug for the heated harness. I'll report back when I remove my wheel. I'm assuming I'll need a clock spring though.

Determined to add paddles and heat!
 

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So I thought I would add a few extra tidbits since I just installed a heated paddle shifter steering wheel in my 2017 ATS Luxury.

1- Steering wheel item number on e-bay is: 202687955408 (GM Part# 23316245)
2- Paddle shifters: 23133990/991 (GM Parts direct)
3- Screws for mounting paddles (two needed): M5-.80 x 12 (Lowe’s)
4- Black split lock washers (two needed): #10 (Lowe’s)

Still working on the jumper wire under the passenger dash/kick panel.

I’ll post an update once completed

MTF
 

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