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ATS 2.0T AWD
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Discussion Starter #1
I will add pictures once I have time to get the car apart to take photos. I didn't take photo's along the way because there was a lot of trail and error (mainly due to this being the first time I've ever attempted something like this and not knowing how to read a schematic). Knowing what I know now about schematics this would have been done a long time ago. Long story short, this is a very easy add on!!

Supply's:

Solder
Shrink Wrap
Harness wrap/electrical tape
0.35 wire is OEM, that's what I used

Tool's:

T50 bit(I will have to confirm the size on this) (steering wheel removal)
Long small flat headed tool (airbag removal)
Flat bladed plastic trim removal tool (steering wheel trim transfer)
7mm sock (passenger kick panel removal)
Small flat headed screw driver (terminal lock release)

Part's list:

I assumed to wheel would come with the paddles for some reason, I should have known better though. Wheel showed up with holes for the paddles and nothing else haha

Wheel - 23184766
Tap Up Paddle - 22924117
Tap Down Paddle - 22924118
IP Harness Connector Terminated Lead - 13327149
BCM Connector Terminated Lead - 13575870
Screws - Have your parts guy get some



Part's:

First thing is to decide what wheel you want. If you have heated and want to keep this feature then you will need to purchase the full OE wheel. Make sure to select the right part number as there are many different wheel options for different trim/options. I also do not know if going this route gives you the paddles or not, make sure to check with your parts guy.

I choose the GM Accessory suede wheel w/ paddle. Very cheap option compared to the OE and suede doesn't get that cold so not concerned about no heated wheel. I live in Canada and get -40 Celsius, never had a heated wheel before and managed just fine.

You will also need to purchase the paddles separate if you get the suede wheel. I found this out when mine showed up and had holes and no paddles haha Neither the wheel or paddles come with the screws required to install (OE does come with them, that I have confirmed). I just had the parts guys find some in the shop supply stock that fit, have your's do the same is my only suggestion if you are going with the suede wheel.

You will then need two terminated leads. One for instrument panel harness connector, other for BCM connector. 0.35 wire to connect two terminated leads. Solder, shrink wrap or butt connectors (supplied with terminated leads from GM).


Procedure:

First thing I did was install the wheel and paddles. To do this I would suggest disconnecting the negative battery terminal located in the trunk on the left hand side under the cover.


1. Install paddles onto wheel

Pretty straight forward, screw the paddles onto the wheel in the holes.

2. Remove the air bag

To do this, use a small flat headed tool. You will see two small holes on either side of the steering column. You can use either one. Put the tool inside, go in pretty level to the ground, there is a metal rod going down either side that clips the air bag in, once you can feel this rod press in and that side should unclip and the airbag should start to lift out. Do the same to the other side of there air bag will not fully pull out.

3. Remove the steering wheel

This requires a T50 bit, one bolt in the center and it's off.

4. Transfer over internal components

Using a plastic flat bladed tool, unclip all the wheel trim from OE wheel. This will require some effort and I definitely thought it might break at times, but it has survived multiple removals now, so its tough!

5. Install new wheel

Simply line up the splines and slide it on, the steering wheel angle sensor will take care of the rest!

6. Install airbag

Simply press it back into place, rods will click in and you're good to go!

7. Remove passenger trim.

Four screws under the passenger side. Two right up front on the glove box lid hinge area, one at a funny annoying angle on the rear center side corner and the last under the cover that comes off once the outside front screw is removed. You will have to disconnect the HVAC control module which is the one under the cover and then the HMI is mounted on top of the panel and you have to disconnect also. Be sure to disconnect flood light plug in and you're done. I then took off the trim that runs along the floor opening off the door. Pull the carpet back and you and will see the BCM mounted against the firewall and the X275 IP harness connector just in front of the door near the floor.

8. Make the wire us with no paddles are missing

You will now be able to see the length of wire you need to make. Trace the harness from the X275 to the green X3 connector into the BCM and thats the length of wire you want. Make sure to leave a little extra length so there is not tension on the cord at all times. I cut the terminated leads about about two inches up, so that if there is every any diagnosis work being performed they will be able to see the wire has been soldered and added in.

Do the same to the other side with the other terminated lead. You should have a male terminal on one end and the female terminal on the other end. You can also use the butt connectors that come with the terminated leads however I prefer to solder.

9. Plug it in

If you haven't already, unplug the Harness at each end from the BCM green X3 connector and the big X275 connector near the floor, this connector has a big lever that will release it and two coax cables that plug in on top of it. You will need to carefully release the terminal lock on each connector. Mine released smoothly but I was told its not good if they break, you will basically need a new connector. I then plugged in the male end into the X275 connector crevice 88 (numbers embossed on connector's), routed the wire along the harness and plugged into the BCM X3 green connector crevice 21 and then re secured the terminal lock.

10. Wrapping the wire into the harness

I then took some harness wrap and went over the wire alone the harness a couple times to try and get this as OEM as I can.

11. Re assemble

Pretty straight forward, plug everything back in, put the carpet back down, floor trim back on. One tip I will give, putting the kick panel back up can be a pain in the ass, so rather than putting the firewall side up first like it seems (to me at least) it should go, you kind of have the get the close end slid in first, and then the firewall side will pup back into place.

12. Reconnect Battery

Reconnect battery.......pretty straight forward step

13. See if it works!

Turn the car back on, it won't shift in drive and not moving so make sure to go into manual mode and you should be able to shift with the paddles no problems. One driving you are able to shift into manual mode using paddles while the floor shift is in drive as designed.

Let me know if there are steps you want more info on, pictures will be added by end of this week and will probably make a lot more sense of some of this stuff for newbies to this as I was when I started playing with this to get the paddles working!

If there is anything you think is missing let me know and I can add it in!

Enjoy!
 

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2012 SRX 3.6, 2013 ATS 2.0T
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8. Make the wire us with no paddles are missing

Maybe reword that...then I hope a mod stickies this...

P.S. - if anyone else does this, pics along the way would be great, I'd volunteer, but I have paddles.
 

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ats
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Although i'm still waiting for my new ATS, the steering wheel with paddle shifters was bought...
But I cannot find the proper terminal

ikireland, do you know the general type of these 2 terminals? such as JST SNAC3-A021T-M0.64, something like that?

IP Harness Connector Terminated Lead - 13327149 (male)
BCM Connector Terminated Lead - 13575870 (female)
 

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ATS 2.0T AWD
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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
wikihua said:
Although i'm still waiting for my new ATS, the steering wheel with paddle shifters was bought... But I cannot find the proper terminal ikireland, do you know the general type of these 2 terminals? such as JST SNAC3-A021T-M0.64, something like that? IP Harness Connector Terminated Lead - 13327149 (male) BCM Connector Terminated Lead - 13575870 (female)
Terminals not available from GM, you have to use the terminated leads which is the terminal with some wire already crimped to it. Easier than getting just the terminal anyways.
 

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Here is what I have found. My 13 Luxury has no terminated leads to solder wire on the X275 connector for terminal 88. Nor is there a terminated lead on the Green X3 connector for terminal 21. Wire 5626 VT/YE(violet and yellow) is terminated at the X275 connector terminal 88. OEM wire and pins would be needed. FYI, I managed to modify a balance pin from a hobby lipo battery to fit inside the Green X3 connector and jumper a wire to connect to wire 5626VT/YE bypassing the X275 connector all together.

Here are some pictures of the bcm and x275 connector

http://s735.photobucket.com/user/brwnfldl1/story/16399
 

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ATS 2.0T AWD
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Discussion Starter #7
goofygoober said:
Here is what I have found. My 13 Luxury has no terminated leads to solder wire on the X275 connector for terminal 88. Nor is there a terminated lead on the Green X3 connector for terminal 21. Wire 5626 VT/YE(violet and yellow) is terminated at the X275 connector terminal 88. OEM wire and pins would be needed. FYI, I managed to modify a balance pin from a hobby lipo battery to fit inside the Green X3 connector and jumper a wire to connect to wire 5626VT/YE bypassing the X275 connector all together. Here are some pictures of the bcm and x275 connector http://s735.photobucket.com/user/brwnfldl1/story/16399
It won't have the leads in the car, u have to buy them....

By passing the x275 connector is, it will still work, I wanted to have everything plugged in as oem so it can simply be unplugged if ever needed for service
 

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2013 ATS 2.0T Luxury RWD , BMW E30 325IC
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Bringing this post back, because I can't believe I didn't find this before now. Only feature I don't have that I really want on my 2013 ATS. New wheel ordered.
 

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2019 CTS
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New and used wheels heated and non-heated, with and without paddles can be found on ebay for much less than the dealer. Also quite a few come with the steering wheel controls.
I did this swap on my 2012 CTS but it was just a plug and play; remove the old wheel and install the new one with the paddles. No wiring, no connectors. Figures they would find a way to make a simple swap a little more complicated. Nice job.
 

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2013 ATS 2.0T Luxury RWD , BMW E30 325IC
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Terminals not available from GM, you have to use the terminated leads which is the terminal with some wire already crimped to it. Easier than getting just the terminal anyways.
Are you sure of the part numbers listed? I have not been able to find the male terminated lead anywhere and I can't find a diagram to find out what kind of connector it is to just buy the connector. Any diagrams/schematics you are able to share would be a huge help.


FYI, I managed to modify a balance pin from a hobby lipo battery to fit inside the Green X3 connector and jumper a wire to connect to wire 5626VT/YE bypassing the X275 connector all together.
Are you saying you spliced the 5626VT/YE wire with the new wire running to pin 21 of the X3? Thus not requiring a new connector for x275. Any issues with this? As I can't find the correct male connector anywhere, this may be the route I have to go.

New and used wheels heated and non-heated, with and without paddles can be found on ebay for much less than the dealer. Also quite a few come with the steering wheel controls.
Yup, I picked up a black leather, heated, 2014 wheel brand new with paddles and all controls for $200 shipped on ebay.
 

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I ended up piggy backing on 5626VT/YE(purple/yellow) wire that terminates at the x275 connector. when looking at the harness its the bottom left wire as seen in the photobucket album. I just stripped some insulation off this wire,wrapped a jumper wire onto the exposed wire, and tucked it back into the factory electrical tape wrap, bypassing the x275 all together. This jumper wire is about 1.5ft. I stripped and tinned the other end and just pushed the tinned wire into the empty hole at pin 21 of the x3. There is no need to unplug the x275 or pull out the bcm this way, much faster and easier. Just remove the hard plastic kicker panel trim/molding. Then pull back the carpet from under the glove box towards the transmission tunnel and remove the green x3 terminal and push your wire in and re connect. Its hard to see at first just but you cant miss it, on the fire wall behind the dash. Voila your shift paddles now communicate with the bcm! With a single jumper wire. Ive put on 20k miles with 0 problems. Fyi the carpet it a pain to pull back. There is a large piece of foam insulation glued to the bottom of the carpet. Just keep at it and it will roll back with the carpet leaving just enough room to get at the bcms green x3 connector, expose the 5626vt/ye on the kicker panel. and route your jumper wire how ever you like.
 

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I've been looking around online and cant seem to find the IP connector lead (Part No. 13327149). Does anyone know who sells it or have an alternative part number for it?
 

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2013 ATS 2.0T Luxury RWD , BMW E30 325IC
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I've been looking around online and cant seem to find the IP connector lead (Part No. 13327149). Does anyone know who sells it or have an alternative part number for it?
I did mine without it. Instead of using the pre-made lead I used a quick splice connector to the splice with the 5626VT/YE(purple/yellow) wire that Goofygoober shows here:

59a742ae-505c-4780-aadc-0b5d47cb152a_zps074a7d34.jpg

I would suggest just picking up the available female lead and using a quick splice. I also put in a disconnect on the wire I added so everything could still be removed nicely.
 

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2013 ATS 2.0T
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I did mine without it. Instead of using the pre-made lead I used a quick splice connector to the splice with the 5626VT/YE(purple/yellow) wire that Goofygoober shows here:
I saw Goofygoobers photos, they were very helpful. If I have to splice the wire as you described I will, but if anyone knows the alternative terminal part number I'd still prefer to wire it into the connector.
 

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Ats 2.0 luxury awd
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Hey grate write up. I want to order a new wheel but before i do i just want to know dose it really work. Will it void my warranty. And what type of wheel puller will work on a 2014 cadillac ats awd

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Hi i was wondering if u got the paddle shifters to work. I want to order the wheel and i just wana know if it works before i do.
 

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Lots and lots of steering wheel part numbers for the ATS. Any chance that a stock wheel w/o paddles would allow the paddles themselves to be added. If possible it is much cheaper. And the newer wheels are specific to some of the adaptive cruise and stop/start/go functions.
 

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2013 ATS / 2016 ATS-V
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Lots and lots of steering wheel part numbers for the ATS. Any chance that a stock wheel w/o paddles would allow the paddles themselves to be added. If possible it is much cheaper. And the newer wheels are specific to some of the adaptive cruise and stop/start/go functions.
No, Aside from the back cover being different for paddle shift wheels the wheel itself is also notched.
 

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2013 ATS / 2016 ATS-V
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I just want to thank all who have contributed to this. I did the mod a week ago and love it although I must say access to the harness'/BCM due to the bulky as heck carpet was alot tougher than I thought!

:bouncy:
 
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