Are GM front struts as good as Gabriel sturts?
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Gabriel, I believe, only makes passive shocks and struts. OEM shocks and struts were designed to be superior to the passive systems. The OEM system is superior because it offers variable dampening (soft and firm) rather than the single dampening of the passive systems (just firm). Although a passive replacement system is definatly better than any bad set of OEM shock and struts. If you're looking for a smoother ride, go with OEM.
Thank you, that's the answer I was looking for. I already bought Gabriel ready mounts for the back (a lot cheaper than OEM air struts.). So I might as well get get Gabriel for the fronts, I don't want firm only in the back and soft/firm in the front.
Since you're going with passive replacements you should be advised that they don't have the electronics to trick the RSS module into thinking that the OEM shocks and struts are still on. This will cause the message "SERVICE RIDE CONTROL" to appear on the dashboard.
There are a few ways to prevent the message from coming up. One way is to go into diagnostics mode, change an IPC perameter (I forget which one) and then disconnect the negative battery cable to freeze that perameter into the module. I personally don't like this method because you could potentially fry your IPC module, and nobody knows if it can be reversed.
Another way is to do research and find out what the inductive frequency is on the dampering valves in the OEM shocks and struts, and then buy inductive coils to attach to the wires that would be going to the dampering valves on each shock and strut. This would be a great way to do it, if you didn't have to do any research...
My way is to unscrew the dampering valves from the old OEM shocks and struts and reuse the dampering valves. If you look on the OEM shocks and struts you will see something protruding from the side, with a wire connection. That is the dampering valve. Around the edge of the dampering valve you will see two flat edges. You can use a large adjustable wrench on those flat edges to unscrew the dampering valve from the shock. Then the next step would be to weather proof the valve. Put it into a small plastic bag and use plenty of electrical tape to keep water out. It might even be a good idea to buy something with those little dehumidifying baggies in it, and put those in with the valve.
If you do it my way, be careful about not getting the hydrolic fluid on carpeting and fabrics. The hydrolic fluid can stain, but the smell is harder to get out than the stain. I say this from experience.
Hope this helps.
There are a few ways to prevent the message from coming up. One way is to go into diagnostics mode, change an IPC perameter (I forget which one) and then disconnect the negative battery cable to freeze that perameter into the module. I personally don't like this method because you could potentially fry your IPC module, and nobody knows if it can be reversed.
Another way is to do research and find out what the inductive frequency is on the dampering valves in the OEM shocks and struts, and then buy inductive coils to attach to the wires that would be going to the dampering valves on each shock and strut. This would be a great way to do it, if you didn't have to do any research...
My way is to unscrew the dampering valves from the old OEM shocks and struts and reuse the dampering valves. If you look on the OEM shocks and struts you will see something protruding from the side, with a wire connection. That is the dampering valve. Around the edge of the dampering valve you will see two flat edges. You can use a large adjustable wrench on those flat edges to unscrew the dampering valve from the shock. Then the next step would be to weather proof the valve. Put it into a small plastic bag and use plenty of electrical tape to keep water out. It might even be a good idea to buy something with those little dehumidifying baggies in it, and put those in with the valve.
If you do it my way, be careful about not getting the hydrolic fluid on carpeting and fabrics. The hydrolic fluid can stain, but the smell is harder to get out than the stain. I say this from experience.
Hope this helps.
I have a code 23 so I believe my front left accuator is damaged. I already have the SSS light. I believe I can cut the dark green wire (1300) to the BCM, that should turn off the light. Atleast that's what I find out on this site. Thanks for your input, I appericate it.
Wait, code 23 you say... Whoops, I'm sorry, I assumed that your car had the Northstar 4.6liter in it. You must have the 4.9. The RSS/SSS systems worked differently between those two engines. With the Northstar the RSS module measures the inductive frequency coming from the valve in order to tell if the valve is good or not. With the 4.9 the RSS or SSS module measures the resistance that the electrical current encounters trough the valve in order to tell if it's good or not. It's much easier to trick your RSS/SSS module than it is to trick the module from the N*, so they may actually supply the resistors needed that would trick the module.
:bang2:
So it shouldn't be very difficult at all for you to do the switch to passives, and you don't need to remove the valves from your old shocks.
:thumbsup:
:bang2:
So it shouldn't be very difficult at all for you to do the switch to passives, and you don't need to remove the valves from your old shocks.
:thumbsup:
Back when I thought the dealership was the place to go. The resistors where an extra two charges of about 30$ apiece, plus labor. I'm gonna cut the wire, which is what the dealership manual says to do, when fixing the SSS problem. Hope it works, the BCM is behind the glove box. It's a little tight in there to be splicing wires.
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