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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, thanks for taking the time to read this. I’m Ben and I’m working on a vehicle 1-2 my senior haha. My brother has a 1990 Cadillac brougham 5.0L rwd four door with soft top (silver on silver, gunmetal accents, spoke rims). Our good friend bought this for his Hispanic wife who never was allowed to listen to rap in Costa Rica (culturally). Long story short, life went south for him quickly, terrible things out of his control happened, and due to an addiction he passed away 4 years ago. It was very hard for both of us.
His father kept this car as Ryan (my friend who passed) loved her and this car with whole heart. My brother got this vehicle from his father who decided it’s too far gone to repair (rust, top peeling, trim popping, old and hard to work on). My brother came to me asking if I could make it happen. Short of a true quality paint job I’m comfortable doing anything that needs to be done and we happen to have a man who is a great painter who has done several classic Cadillac restorations. It runs now great, drives, shifts etc like a Cadillac ;)
It’s got a lot of rust to the point the rear trunk somehow pulls latched but rattles terribly. Minus the “skin” of the trunk it’s gone. The hood is missing a spring for now but just feels very weak as well, I’m assuming if I remove the noise/heat shield I’ll find rust there as well. The engine wiring all seems intact still, but all the “snake” conduit (black stuff) is brittle and disintegrates with touch. The door seals are absolutely gone and the trunk rubber (squishing bumper stuff) is gone causing a bad leak into the trunk but I can’t tell if it’s also at the base of the rear window.
My father was an auto-glass man in the 70-00’s. He gave me a run down of the trims and how to remove the clips. I’m not missing any chrome pieces though many are very loose as is the rear door vinyl sections. I believe I made a good move buying new fiberglass bumper taillight moldings. As I assume welding the bumpers in place is the best restoration option.
I cannot find a trunk anywhere I call so I assume I need to make my own reinforcement and use the trunk skin/stock latch assembly. The bumpers have minor rusting and I looked into having them chromed again but it was astronomical so I’m going to save the chrome I can and spray body color from bumper moldings up I suppose to “make it work”. The spokes have rusting at the point they meet the rim but was told by a friend that I would cry to see pricing to have them redone as well.
I’m wondering what direction everyone is going who needs these parts that are non existent. Perhaps I just don’t know where to look but this seems to be a dead end. I have asked local businesses I know for advice. They tell me to run away and it can’t be done.
Where can I find wiring diagrams, or technical info. I did try searching and found the tech section but didn’t see that type of info.... assuming my competence.... anyone here Brougham god and willing to take some time to help me. I am very active on jeep, explorer, and gen 3-4 chevys with knowledge and experience in most aspects of automotive. I try to help who and where I can, so anyone who’s maybe made it this far, please, any help or direction is appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
YoshiMan thanks so much for replying, especially so fast. That is a fair price for what is almost antique literature haha. I suppose this is before they had the pdf’s for mechanics. Will be a luxury to have the Manual. Any advice as to rechroming or part sourcing?
 

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1975 Coupe Deville D'Elegance
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Not sure about the rechroming part. I guess it depends on where you live. I know that all the bumper places that specialize in steel bumpers have dried up here in Denver over the last 20 years or so. I would maybe try hitting up a powder coating place and see if they have a reference to a place that does rechroming.

As far as body panels and some of the trim stuff that's out of production, you might try these guys. I have gotten stuff for my 75 from them and had very good experiences each time!

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you again, I truly mean it. I believe an old man at a gas pump was telling me about that place a few months ago but I assumed he was just calling it a Cadillac heaven in the Carolinas. Now I believe I may have misunderstood him and that’s what he was saying. As for local business close by me.... I’m on the eastern shore of Maryland. Very country, farms, forest, bay to ocean... streams between, lots of blue crabs, “rockfish”, corn, and chickens, flat as you can imagine (being from Denver of course haha). However good call about touching base with a restoration company like that (some 150 miles away in Baltimore). Great thinking yet again. I’ll try not to be too much of a bother. Hopefully get some pictures when it’s finished. I’m sure I’ll be put to shame by many members on here but that’s half the fun isn’t it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It’s super cold and wet outside so I have it in a small garage (too small for this behemoth) been trying track these parasitic draws. I have miscellaneous pictures I could get. Some show the terrible state of wiring in the engine bay and the love the accessories need. The trim is popping off the side panel I show that with my finger “gauging” the gap. The interior is great minus the drivers seat. Outside it’s in decent shape just minor rust spots showing thru. The trunk is bad and the pictures don’t do the damage justice (IMO). I’ll pull it out and get a full picture with some sunlight. It runs very well, definitely not racing anyone with this 5.0 but it drives amazing. I want to address the obvious corrosion issues even if it’s just to get it off for now. I’m not sure the $$$ he wants to put into this vehicle. But i know he wants it done so besides the body work/paint and minor issues like wiring draws and malfunctioning old electronics I’m not sure how far he wants to go. I will make a new cover for front seat myself. I have the rear fiberglass insert to fix rubber one.
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Same here!

I understand the basic body corrosion.. but, damn, that trunk lid is tin foil rusted at this point! Can't say I've ever seen one that bad before.
Yes. For sure it’s gone. The lock somehow still gets it “closed” to the eye. I’m sure it’s not seated 100%. I haven’t gotten in touch with Cadillac heaven yet. Hopefully they’ll have my trunk. If none available I’ve considered doing a carbon fiber shell of the trunk , little experience doing it myself (some) but full knowledge as to making body panels with it. May be a fun learning curve though the hood would be the best to do dollar for dollar. A donor vehicle has always been an idea too. But I’d want a good trunk and bumper. The “unicorn” from what I’ve seen. This Brougham lived at the beach here for years and being that it mists salt air all day it’s actually a surprise how well it’s held up. Paint companies test paints here at the beach specifically bc the high temps 100+ to cold temps -0, salt, sun, and storms. Seen many paints chalk out as they called it bc of the conditions. Leaking thru clear coats. I assume this spot in the trunk may have trapped the mist and allowed it to pool up there. It’s 10x worse than any other spot.
 

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Ahh, the good 'ole beach corrosion. Now it makes sense!

There's lots of trunks out there.. just gotta be willing to possibly drive a bit to a salvage yard to get one (and possibly order).
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ahh, the good 'ole beach corrosion. Now it makes sense!

There's lots of trunks out there.. just gotta be willing to possibly drive a bit to a salvage yard to get one (and possibly order).
I don’t mind a good drive and luckily neither does my assistant/wife, so I have the company too. Thanks so much for the “good vibes”. Making this project seem much less burdensome seeing a light thru the rust holes.
 

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Those are not factory Cadillac wheels, so I would not bother with getting them re-chromed. You can get the real ones, but they are pricey. , or get the steel wheels (I have a set for sale) and some factory wire wheel covers. And the real / original ones are 15" wheels, not the monstrous (and Stooooopid) 18-19-20-22 inch wheels.

That trunk is gone. The rest doesn't look too bad. It will never run correctly with that edelbrock contraption on it. Get the factory components when the time comes.
 

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How much do you plan to spend on this car? I'm sure you could find a much nicer one for $1000. Yours is very close to a basket case that needs too much money and labor to make it halfway presentable.
 

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Parasitic draw could be as simple as the glovebox light stays on 24/7.

Other than that.. yeap, 20 footer.. but, with a seat cover, some chrome spray paint and steel wool polishing and a new decklid and maybe a quick taillight filler replacement-- could be a 10 footer.

If the thing has lower mileage, might be fun to keep working on it.

But, as others have said.. it is fairly rough.. Selling the wheels separately will bring more than the car itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Those are not factory Cadillac wheels, so I would not bother with getting them re-chromed. You can get the real ones, but they are pricey. , or get the steel wheels (I have a set for sale) and some factory wire wheel covers. And the real / original ones are 15" wheels, not the monstrous (and Stooooopid) 18-19-20-22 inch wheels.

That trunk is gone. The rest doesn't look too bad. It will never run correctly with that edelbrock contraption on it. Get the factory components when the time comes.
Thanks for the knowledge. This car is literally as old as I am so I’m not sure what was factory styling haha. I will have to check with my brother as to which route he would want to go. I’m glad to hear they are not factory. I will look around and see what I can find. I doubt it but my brother may want the “hoopty” look with the rims. I’ll have to see what he wants. I agree with a return to stock for quality purposes. As for the engine compartment. I was wondering (if you have knowledge of this setup) what direction there may be for upgrading as I know these v8s were very anemic from the factory. It has exhaust on it now and sounds good. Not over bearing at all. By no means am I trying to hot rod it, just free up any ponies “if” that is possible considering what a birds nest you see I came upon. The cover I had from a friends carb kit and it fit as the top was completely missing. My nephew wanted to be dropped off in school in it, he loves the vehicle and want it to be his first car, so I didn’t want the engine sucking anything worse than it has. This winter I will go all in on what needs to be done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
How much do you plan to spend on this car? I'm sure you could find a much nicer one for $1000. Yours is very close to a basket case that needs too much money and labor to make it halfway presentable.
I’m not sure what the max is as I’m doing this with/for my brother. It was a friends that passed away. We have looked into donor cars but they all have the same or worse problems from what we find. Definitely not going show quality or trying to make it a museum piece. Just something that can be driven around town once in a while and potentially my nephew could “whip” it around once he really learns to drive. Just trying to hold onto the memory of our friend. Everyone that knew him well knows how much something stupid like this would have meant to him. Especially my brother and I working on it together. We had some bad blood for years but working past it as life IS too short.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Parasitic draw could be as simple as the glovebox light stays on 24/7.

Other than that.. yeap, 20 footer.. but, with a seat cover, some chrome spray paint and steel wool polishing and a new decklid and maybe a quick taillight filler replacement-- could be a 10 footer.

If the thing has lower mileage, might be fun to keep working on it.

But, as others have said.. it is fairly rough.. Selling the wheels separately will bring more than the car itself.
I’ve tested draw for all bulbs and also removed them to verify. It seems to be a low draw into or around digital dash. That is roughly 200mA but the draw past that seems to be somewhere with the abs or wiring to it. That draw is almost .5A. So I’m assuming some kind of early abs unit failure internally or major short on wiring harness that side of vehicle. Thermal camera would find it immediately most likely. As for the mileage it is very low and runs amazingly. Starts first crank of engine and shifts smooth as (I’d assume) day one. Just a sentimental journey to keep this car I think. I’m goofy like that. I still have my first lifted jeep I flipped end-over onto roof (ran off road by drunk driver) and I wish to one day bring that back to life as a soft top. But I may just be showing my ******* a little too much there. Cars become a big part of some of us. And our friend had that same attachment to the “Caddy”.... so maybe a dollar gone m bringing it back but im a smiles not miles per gallon kinda person.
 
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