Cadillac Owners Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
06 CTS Sport/Luxury package
Joined
·
9,803 Posts
How can a company "reflash" or "reprogram" a resistor and piece of metal? Basically that's all a MAF sensor is. Maybe another electronic component or two, but nothing that is able to take a reprogram like a chip.

I actually removed my MAF housing and cut away the grill. It was so long ago that I forget where the grill piece is/was. Either before or after the MAF sensor itself.

KOT
 

·
Registered
CTS
Joined
·
256 Posts
You'd probably see a better increase in horsepower/$ by purchasing TB cleaner and cleaning out your TB and a few other places on your engine. I don't see this giving you an increase in horsepower. You'd be better off with one of those chips
 

·
Administrator
2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
Joined
·
68,441 Posts
Not the same engine in my car, but I can verify that the so-called "performance MAF" is a big lie. Two 1860 mile round trip runs from MD to FL - stock MAF down, JET back - loss of pep, mixture codes, slight fuel mileage loss and an off-idle stumble with the JET. (Yes, everything else was checked for performance and leaks.)

And, you car has a perfectly good CAI straight from the factory. It flows, with a good pleated paper filter, far more air than the engine can use at WOT redline. (The sticker, on the driver's rear quarter window, is good for 2.4 hp at idle) Stick an aftermarket HAI on there and watch the results. Don't believe me ???? Buy a ScanGauge-II from www.scangauge.com and monitor IAT (Intake Air Temperature) before and after a so-called CAI install. You might be unpleasantly surprised. Sure, aftermarket gives you more noise - and that's power, right ??

............. and most "chips" are nothing more than a 25 cent resistor in a $75 box used to alter intake air temperature sensor readings to richen the fuel mixture. Another scam. Before and after dyno runs are the ONLY way to verify any power gains or losses. Your butt dyno won't do it. Not even close. It's the old subjective feeling that a pair of XYZ mufflers adds power. Wrong. Noise is not power. Dyno runs.

The JET MAF is still on the shelf - anyone want it - cheap ???
 

Attachments

·
Super Moderator
'05 CTS-V
Joined
·
8,027 Posts
How can a company "reflash" or "reprogram" a resistor and piece of metal? Basically that's all a MAF sensor is.
I'd say the description - "Made by flashing a fit-tested factory-original sensor with advanced programming" - is a bit misleading, but it is possible they could monkey with the MAF sensor in a way that would improve performance. The MAF transfer function, which is what tells the ECU have many kg/hr (or whatever units you prefer) of air is entering the air based on the voltage produced by the MAF sensor, is programmed into the ECU. That MAF transfer function doesn't change when you swap out the MAF sensor. If the MAF sensor is different than the factory one, as it clearly is based on the picture, then that means the ECU's MAF transfer function is no longer correct. So JET could use MAF electronics that would produce a different voltage signal that would "compensate" the stock MAF transfer function and give you the desired result. I can't say that JET actually has done that, but it's possible. It would basically be fooling the ECU.

I actually removed my MAF housing and cut away the grill. It was so long ago that I forget where the grill piece is/was.
You probably did more harm than good by doing that. "Back in the day" that was considered the thing to do, as it was supposed to allow for more airflow by cutting away that "restrictive" screen. I believe I did it on my Mustang many years ago. In the years since, though, as EFI tuners have learned more about how to properly tune EFI systems, folks have learned that one of the most important things to get right is smooth flow through the MAF sensor (which is the purpose of the screen) and an accurate MAF transfer function in the ECU. That transfer function is the baseline for so much of what the ECU does, so you really want it to be correct. Cutting away the screen means the flow through the MAF sensor isn't as smooth as it should be, and that you've (slightly) altered the actual flow through the MAF sensor without adjusting the MAF transfer function accordingly, both of which are counter-productive.

Not the same engine in my car, but I can verify that the so-called "performance MAF" is a big lie. Two 1860 mile round trip runs from MD to FL - stock MAF down, JET back - loss of pep, mixture codes, slight fuel mileage loss and an off-idle stumble with the JET. (Yes, everything else was checked for performance and leaks.)
Sounds like a great product!

And, you car has a perfectly good CAI straight from the factory. It flows, with a good pleated paper filter, far more air than the engine can use at WOT redline.
Just because the stock intake with a paper filter can flow enough air doesn't mean that you can't improve on the system and reduce pumping losses.

Stick an aftermarket HAI on there and watch the results. Don't believe me ???? Buy a ScanGauge-II from www.scangauge.com and monitor IAT (Intake Air Temperature) before and after a so-called CAI install. You might be unpleasantly surprised. Sure, aftermarket gives you more noise - and that's power, right ??
Seems like the obvious answer there is buy a proper CAI.

Before and after dyno runs are the ONLY way to verify any power gains or losses.
Or drag strip passes.
 

·
Administrator
2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
Joined
·
68,441 Posts
A MAF is not electronic - it's electrical. They use the airflow over 2, 3, or 4 heated resistors to change resistance as a function of volume and IAT and thereby send an analog signal (varying voltage) to the PCM for electronic mixture control interpretation.

Two ways to alter that voltage output: Either change the values of the resistors welded onto the bridges or daisy chain another resistor - in series or parallel - to alter the original resistance values.

FWIW that "grille" is a 3/16" deep honeycomb airflow straightener - it assures even flow (little turbulence) over the heated resistors. Think: Wind tunnel and smoke flow testing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
629 Posts
Submariner409 said:
A MAF is not electronic - it's electrical. They use the airflow over 2, 3, or 4 heated resistors to change resistance as a function of volume and IAT and thereby send an analog signal (varying voltage) to the PCM for mixture interpretation. Two ways to alter that voltage output: Either change the values of the resistors welded onto the bridges or daisy chain another resistor - in series or parallel - to alter the original resistance values. FWIW that "grille" is a 3/16" deep honeycomb airflow straightener - it assures even flow (little turbulence) over the heated resistors. Think: Wind tunnel and smoke flow testing.
Even if you do this, the maximum voltage (5volts) won't change being sent to the ecm which in turn won't know to add fuel with the increase in airflow. I guess you could trick it into thinking it's getting 3 volts when it's real supposed to be getting two. Or vise versa but either way it would mess with the set afr. You would have to change the values that the ecm sees to change for the good. A stand alone wide band kit would let your know precisely how much it's altered but that's a $400+ kit for a 100 dollar maf mod. Lol.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top