So, whats the question??? If it breaks, you replace it...no biggie, just make sure it seats correctly again....Oh, and I recommend getting a torque wrench...100ft/lbs max....it was prolly put on way too tight with an impact gun...on my car the impact gun only touches it to take the wheels off, nothing else.
Anyone have a wheel bolt break off??
What do you do if you are removing a lugnut and the bolt snaps off?? I never torque them super tight. In fact, to tighten them I use a large ratchet with a handle about 10" long. The bolts are all rusty looking; think that could have something to do with it? Do you think they will cover it under warranty, cuz this is f'ing bullshit!
Last year my car was at the dealer and they had to remove one of the wheels for a diff replacement and when I picked it up they told me they had to replace a wheel bolt because it broke off...
Damn I have bad luck with this car... During my Ground Control install last night I noticed that my diff is leaking again and that explains the whirring/whittling/whining sound I get when I am moving at speed with the clutch depressed. This will be Diff #7!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Last year my car was at the dealer and they had to remove one of the wheels for a diff replacement and when I picked it up they told me they had to replace a wheel bolt because it broke off...
Damn I have bad luck with this car... During my Ground Control install last night I noticed that my diff is leaking again and that explains the whirring/whittling/whining sound I get when I am moving at speed with the clutch depressed. This will be Diff #7!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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I put them on, with the large ratchet. I am anal about over-torquing, there is no way it was overtorqued.
My question is, how much will it cost to replace? And have others had this happen (if so was it covered under warranty)?
My question is, how much will it cost to replace? And have others had this happen (if so was it covered under warranty)?
might cost 1-3$ depending on where you buy the stud....if you can take your wheels off, or put gas in the car, you can change a stud....take off the caliper/rotor....then hammer out the broken stud, slip in the new one, minding where the little 'grooves' are in the hub, match up the new stud accordingly...seat it best you can by hand...then, screw a lug nut on the new stud and start tightening (works best with an impact gun) once it's fully seated remove lug nut, and re-assemble...and, your done...shouldn't take you longer than 20-30min with hand tools.
You should always use a torque wrench!No way you can properly put a wheel on right without one.
Sometimes the threads can get slightly distorted or get something on them like a metal shaving. If that happens it can mess up the thread a little and then it grows from there. Every turn of the lug can further distort the threads. Sometimes it can happen going on and when you take it off it gets even worse to the point where it is bound so much it is easier to snap off the lug than it is to turn the nut.
It is an unfortunate byproduct of taking the wheels on and off.
It doesn't happen too often and there is opportunity for abuse.
Some guys out there will stick the lug nut in their gun and set it on the stud and go to town. This can catch the thread wrong and tear up the stud (obviously).
I always install lugs by hand about two or three turns then use a teflon coated special socket that I bought just for you V guys (so your wheels don't get scratched) and a torque stick to finish tightening up the wheels.
I instruct my helpers to do the same.
Torque sticks are okay for average street use, but I would agree that using a properly calibrated torque wrench is much more precise.
I'd say we probably see failure of lug studs on the average of about 3-4 times a year on cars that see regular maintenance.
And most of the ones I work on usually have fairly low mileage.
It is an unfortunate byproduct of taking the wheels on and off.
It doesn't happen too often and there is opportunity for abuse.
Some guys out there will stick the lug nut in their gun and set it on the stud and go to town. This can catch the thread wrong and tear up the stud (obviously).
I always install lugs by hand about two or three turns then use a teflon coated special socket that I bought just for you V guys (so your wheels don't get scratched) and a torque stick to finish tightening up the wheels.
I instruct my helpers to do the same.
Torque sticks are okay for average street use, but I would agree that using a properly calibrated torque wrench is much more precise.
I'd say we probably see failure of lug studs on the average of about 3-4 times a year on cars that see regular maintenance.
And most of the ones I work on usually have fairly low mileage.
Oh, and replacing them is usually quite easy and not that expensive.
It is usually a big inconvenience though.
The caliper does have to come off.
As described above, you just hammer the old one out and pull the new one in. I use a spacer and a special conical washer I have in my box to tighten it into place with a lug nut.
Much easier with an impact.
Be sure to use red loctite on the caliper retaining bolts as outlined in the FSM and torque to spec.
Otherwise the bolts could work their way loose and out. (that's bad)
Sometimes it is hard to get the lug in and out depending on the design of the hub. Usually you can sneak them out, sometimes the hub has to come off but I don't think it does on the V.
It is usually a big inconvenience though.
The caliper does have to come off.
As described above, you just hammer the old one out and pull the new one in. I use a spacer and a special conical washer I have in my box to tighten it into place with a lug nut.
Much easier with an impact.
Be sure to use red loctite on the caliper retaining bolts as outlined in the FSM and torque to spec.
Otherwise the bolts could work their way loose and out. (that's bad)
Sometimes it is hard to get the lug in and out depending on the design of the hub. Usually you can sneak them out, sometimes the hub has to come off but I don't think it does on the V.
^^ I've never done one on a V...but every other car I've done I've found a way....how much did you spend on the kit to re-install the studs...I've looked at those, but could never justify the cost.
Oh, the washer I have is part of a set we use to check lateral runout when doing brake work.
It is actually part of a shop tool.
I am not sure where you could buy one.
If you get a regular nut the right size and pitch and then a nut that is too big it should work to pull the stud through. Just use the bigger nut as a spacer and tighten the one that fits until it is flush on the back side.
It is actually part of a shop tool.
I am not sure where you could buy one.
If you get a regular nut the right size and pitch and then a nut that is too big it should work to pull the stud through. Just use the bigger nut as a spacer and tighten the one that fits until it is flush on the back side.
Hub has to come off on the V to replace the stud on the rear wheels, not fun. I'm doing one now.
Hub does not have to come off for the front. Ask me how I know :banghead:. You just have to take off the caliper. There is a notch on the hub behind that caliper that lets the studs slide out.Hub has to come off on the V to replace the stud on the rear wheels, not fun. I'm doing one now.
I didn't know about the red locktite though. Guess I need to do that.
-Chris
We all learned a lot this weekend...Hub does not have to come off for the front. Ask me how I know :banghead:. You just have to take off the caliper. There is a notch on the hub behind that caliper that lets the studs slide out.
I didn't know about the red locktite though. Guess I need to do that.
-Chris
Sorry, resurrecting an old thread here.
I was taking off one of my rear wheels last night to adjust my GC Kit and noticed that all of my lug bolts were stripped on that wheel. Well, to make a long story short, I ended up overtorquing one of the nuts too much because they were stripped, and snapped a lug bolt.
Now I am paranoid and think that all of them are probably stripped (either from some lazy tech that didn't seat them right and used an air-impact wrench on them, or from me removing and installing the wheels to adjust my suspension a few times, and yes I am new at wrenching on cars and I'm a dumbass aparently). Either way, I am going to have all 24 wheel studs replaced. My question is: How much do you think it will cost to get all of them replaced and does anybody (ewill3rd) have an idea on what the labor might be in hours?
Thanks for the info in advance. :rant2:
I was taking off one of my rear wheels last night to adjust my GC Kit and noticed that all of my lug bolts were stripped on that wheel. Well, to make a long story short, I ended up overtorquing one of the nuts too much because they were stripped, and snapped a lug bolt.
Now I am paranoid and think that all of them are probably stripped (either from some lazy tech that didn't seat them right and used an air-impact wrench on them, or from me removing and installing the wheels to adjust my suspension a few times, and yes I am new at wrenching on cars and I'm a dumbass aparently). Either way, I am going to have all 24 wheel studs replaced. My question is: How much do you think it will cost to get all of them replaced and does anybody (ewill3rd) have an idea on what the labor might be in hours?
Thanks for the info in advance. :rant2:
I saw trukk do his fairly quickly at the track, so I would imagine the time wouldn't be that much.Sorry, resurrecting an old thread here.
I was taking off one of my rear wheels last night to adjust my GC Kit and noticed that all of my lug bolts were stripped on that wheel. Well, to make a long story short, I ended up overtorquing one of the nuts too much because they were stripped, and snapped a lug bolt.
Now I am paranoid and think that all of them are probably stripped (either from some lazy tech that didn't seat them right and used an air-impact wrench on them, or from me removing and installing the wheels to adjust my suspension a few times, and yes I am new at wrenching on cars and I'm a dumbass aparently). Either way, I am going to have all 24 wheel studs replaced. My question is: How much do you think it will cost to get all of them replaced and does anybody (ewill3rd) have an idea on what the labor might be in hours?
Thanks for the info in advance. :rant2:
Anyone have any idea where to get longer studs? I want to use a 1/2 spacer on the rear wheels, and I don't think there is enough thread on the stock length.
Warranty time calls for .6 for the first (that means to replace one) and .2 for each additional... for each wheel.
That would be 1.6hours per wheel from a technical standpoint... however I'd say it could easily be done in less than that.
Not having had to replace all of them I'd say if you caught someone on a good day they might do it for about 2 hours??
Hard to say.
That would be 1.6hours per wheel from a technical standpoint... however I'd say it could easily be done in less than that.
Not having had to replace all of them I'd say if you caught someone on a good day they might do it for about 2 hours??
Hard to say.
Other posts on here about a month ago claimed that the lugs broke because of loose lug nuts. The lugs then flex and snap off. Do a search.
Thanks a lot for your input. It makes me feel a little better knowing that it won't be a gigantic pain in the ass, but it still may cost more $$$ than I would want to spend on something like this. I hope that I can get a least the rear replaced under warranty and will probably go ahead and pay to have the others changed for safety's sake. Thanks again, ewill!!!Warranty time calls for .6 for the first (that means to replace one) and .2 for each additional... for each wheel.
That would be 1.6hours per wheel from a technical standpoint... however I'd say it could easily be done in less than that.
Not having had to replace all of them I'd say if you caught someone on a good day they might do it for about 2 hours??
Hard to say.
ARP Makes some:Anyone have any idea where to get longer studs? I want to use a 1/2 spacer on the rear wheels, and I don't think there is enough thread on the stock length.
http://www.arp-bolts.com/Catalog/Catalog.PP/2005Catalog066.html
I will ASSUME you would want PN:
Late GM Camaro, Firebird, Corvette .509 3.250 .315 none M12 x 1.5 100-7713.
These appear to be 3/4" longer than the normal studs. I'd call ARP just to make sure, unless someone else here can validate that's the right part.
I know in the front at least there is a little notch in the hub, that lets you install the STOCK sized studs w/o removing the hub, BUT they just barely slid in. You'd have to remove the hub for the longer studs.
Hope this helps,
Chris
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