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2009 CTS-V
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2,018 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have an Escort 8500 hardwired and just bought a V1 that I'm running off the cig lighter for now. I like the arrows of the V1 but I also like the 8500, so for now I'm testing them against each other with a slight edge going to the 8500. The V1 arrow's are really nice to have but using both is the best of both worlds (for now).
Anyways, is there another 12v source I can use in the headliner to hardwire the V1? I'm reluctant to tap off the same hardwire I'm using for the 8500.
I don't have a sunroof.
 

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2009 CTS-V
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2,018 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Do you recall the wire color?
 

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05 maggied CTS-V, 2017 NSX Whoo Hoo!
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8,810 Posts
From Reed's FAQ's:

You should have at least 1 approximately 18 inch long piece of telephone cable with one bare/cut end, the other end should have an RJ-11 MALE telephone type connector on it.


1. (This and the next step are the most difficult part of this operation) Carefully pry a small (width) the area of the headliner away from the mounting near the windshield.
2. Then feed the bare end of the cable from the windshield under the headliner to the opening where the overhead console normally appears.
3. You may wish to (roughly) place the V1 in it’s final mounting place, on your windshield, and if need be, trim back the bare end of this cable – I left most of my extra cable tucked up (and hidden) in the headliner, so that in case I need/want to move the detector to a different (yet still reasonably close) location, it would be easy. I first had mine on the passenger side of the inside rear view mirror, the decided to move it to the driver’s side.
4. With the exposed end of the cable now in the hole of the headliner, trim back about two to three inches of outside insulation, exposing 4 insulated wires.
5. At this point if you’re not using the remote display unit (and this install assumes that), you can cut the yellow and black wires off completely they are not used a stand-alone installation.
6. Blue wire with WHITE stripe (adjacent to the black wire in the connector - if we call the black wire position 2 in that row (there are 4 wires) then the blue/WHITE stripe wire is position 3) = +12V delay switched. (see below)
7. Use wire clips to attach to one of the seeming to be ignition hot wires and another to a ground.
8. Strip about three-quarters of an inch of insulation off both the red and green wires and crimp the appropriate blade type connectors onto them (I can supply pic of these connectors if need be).
9. Insert the 2 bladed connectors into the 2 wire clips.
10. Plug in your V1 and turn it on. If it fails to power up (and make the soon to be all familiar self test sounds), swap (reverse) the connections that you plugged into the wire clips in Step 9. You will NOT do any harm to the V1 if the power to it is reversed, it just won’t power up.
 

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crushing Vs with my Wurm
2013 GT500 - 700+ HP
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12,266 Posts
you should never run 2 detectors at the same time as you can get falses from eachother. You need to run separate tests. Knowing local alert sources, you may want to travel past them and note distances, etc. Side by side tests are usually inconclusive. See: http://www.radardetector.net/

F
 

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2009 CTS-V
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2,018 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks F. I was wondering if I was seeing false signals already on the V1. I'll take your suggestion and test differently.
The last 2 days I went by a know police laser in a school zone and only the Escort picked it up, the V1 stayed quiet. I think I'll run V1 into the same areas by itself.
 

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2018 CT6E, old: 2014 XTS Vsport, 2005 CTS-V, 2004 CTS-V.
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2,706 Posts
Your test should be more scientific than that. Just the lighting during the day or the reflection of the sun's rays will effect laser results. Not to mention the officer using laser are not created equal.

Times I've lasered for 20 seconds and other times for 4 seconds. Some officers are smart and will aim the 18" beam at the ground in front of you knowing if they aim center mass a laser jammer or detector will pick them up. Got to be smarter at their game too. :)

Norm
 

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'07 CTS V
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The only things I've done to this car since I bought it new 2 months ago was to hardwire in my passport 8500. I installed the remote cord inside the ashtray and tapped into the switched power source behind the radio (in accordance w/the faq).

I ran the feedwire from the remote cord across the dash, inside the front pillar, across the roof liner and down the rear view mirror thingy. It sounds like alot, but you can literally push the cable behind all the trip with ZERO effort/issues.

The detector is suction cupped to the windshield just under the rear view mirror. Having the remote inside the ashtray make it really easy to hit the silent button.

I think (double check faq) that on 04 V's you can move the position of a fuse and turn the cig lighter into a switched source, but it doesn't work w/the 07.

If you decide to keep the passport I would recommend giving the remote cord some thought.
 

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My "old trusty" Passport didn't work in the V. It repeatedly gave me false LASER alarms.
False x's I can handle. It's only too many times I'm going to slam on the brakes in the middle of a clear stretch of road, because I'm getting false Laser readings.
Got the V1 and it's worked pretty good so far
 

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I have my V1 hard wired and I also have a hard wire for my Uniden Bear Tracker. I rarely use it on the East Coast but still use it on long trips in remote areas...

Using both has worked fine over long distances. They don't eat that much power so I think you'll be fine.
 

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2009 CTS-V
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Discussion Starter #11
I'll test the V1 against a known laser location tomorrow morning. If it doesn't go off I may ask for my money back.
 
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