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Registered
1997 Eldorado
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637 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
anyone ever use or know of anyone who used Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant. i know its a race coolant but i wonder how it will stand in a northstar?
 

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90 Eldo -SOLD-, 98 ETC -SOLD-, 86 XR4Ti Track Car, 07 Ranger
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963 Posts
Nope, but I've run water wetter, good for a few deg drop across the board, but I've found the water/coolant mix alters how well it cools alot...
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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71,004 Posts
Why ????? "Water wetters" and "race coolants" supposedly increase the heat transfer between metal and coolant - they DO NOT make the engine run cooler. In order to make the engine run cooler you need to change to a lower temperature thermostat: No water wetter or coolant will change the opening and closing temperatures of a thermostat. In today's computer-controlled engine packages a cold thermostat screws up fuel/air ratios and makes the engine "think" it's still cold, so it runs richer all the time.

The Northstar has a perfectly adequate cooling system - as a matter of fact, it is so good that even in the summer, cruising down the highway at 70, most FWD Northstars run at about 193 -200 degrees. The thermostat is set to begin opening at 188 and be fully open at 206. If the car's running at 198, the thermostat is only 60% open. The ONLY time the thermostat EVER goes fully open is under stop-and-go traffic conditions or all-out road racing.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it !!!!
 

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Super Moderator
2010 DTS
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87,543 Posts
:banghead: Why oh why does everyone want to re-engineer these engines? Why does everyone think cooler is better? The engine would actually run more efficiently if they could get it to run at 300+ degrees. Bringing the temperatures down would be simple. The engineers know how to do that. Hell they used to run at 160. Standard running temps are up to 210 for years now for a reason.
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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71,004 Posts
:sneaky: When we were 20 we were pouring Wynn's Friction Proofing and Marvel Mystery Oil into every hole in the engine and gas tank. Some of us were even dumb enough to try dissolving moth balls in gasoline to make "race gas". Now we know better...... but it never stops.
 

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Super Moderator
2010 DTS
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87,543 Posts
:histeric: Moth balls. I forgot about that. Yeah, I have to admit, I have succumbed to snake oil in my younger days. Guess I'm just trying to keep the young'uns from making the same mistakes. Some of these claims just irk me and I hate to see people fall for them and put money into the crooks pockets.
 

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Registered
1997 Eldorado
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637 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Why ????? "Water wetters" and "race coolants" supposedly increase the heat transfer between metal and coolant - they DO NOT make the engine run cooler. In order to make the engine run cooler you need to change to a lower temperature thermostat: No water wetter or coolant will change the opening and closing temperatures of a thermostat. In today's computer-controlled engine packages a cold thermostat screws up fuel/air ratios and makes the engine "think" it's still cold, so it runs richer all the time.

The Northstar has a perfectly adequate cooling system - as a matter of fact, it is so good that even in the summer, cruising down the highway at 70, most FWD Northstars run at about 193 -200 degrees. The thermostat is set to begin opening at 188 and be fully open at 206. If the car's running at 198, the thermostat is only 60% open. The ONLY time the thermostat EVER goes fully open is under stop-and-go traffic conditions or all-out road racing.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it !!!!
thats my issue right now. the damn good cooling system we have isnt worth a poop right now. im 230 idle and 215 driving and thatrs city stop and go in around 90 degrees. when i hit the high way i drop to 200 to 205 but the city is killing me . when i get out my damn motor cover is so hot it will burn your hand. but its only in idle my temp gets warm.
 

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94 Eldorado, and a 99 ETC
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3,887 Posts
Might want to do a voltage drop test on the fan circuit. It could be spinning, just not getting enough juice.
 

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03 Seville STS
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61 Posts
Why ????? "Water wetters" and "race coolants" supposedly increase the heat transfer between metal and coolant - they DO NOT make the engine run cooler. In order to make the engine run cooler you need to change to a lower temperature thermostat: No water wetter or coolant will change the opening and closing temperatures of a thermostat. In today's computer-controlled engine packages a cold thermostat screws up fuel/air ratios and makes the engine "think" it's still cold, so it runs richer all the time.

The Northstar has a perfectly adequate cooling system - as a matter of fact, it is so good that even in the summer, cruising down the highway at 70, most FWD Northstars run at about 193 -200 degrees. The thermostat is set to begin opening at 188 and be fully open at 206. If the car's running at 198, the thermostat is only 60% open. The ONLY time the thermostat EVER goes fully open is under stop-and-go traffic conditions or all-out road racing.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it !!!!
Preach!!! :worship:
 

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Super Moderator
2010 DTS
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87,543 Posts
thats my issue right now. the damn good cooling system we have isnt worth a poop right now. im 230 idle and 215 driving and thatrs city stop and go in around 90 degrees. when i hit the high way i drop to 200 to 205 but the city is killing me . when i get out my damn motor cover is so hot it will burn your hand. but its only in idle my temp gets warm.
215 is normal. 230 is a tad high, but using a racing coolant or adding snake oil will only delay the repair at best. Have you checked the usual. Tensioner, purge line etc.? Does it get hot when you go WOT?
 

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1997 Eldorado
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637 Posts
Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
215 is normal. 230 is a tad high, but using a racing coolant or adding snake oil will only delay the repair at best. Have you checked the usual. Tensioner, purge line etc.? Does it get hot when you go WOT?
whats the tensioner and purge line? also whats wot haha sorry not to familiar as i should be. also i have an suspicion that it might be because of my rigged ac hook up haha. my relay wasnt grounding right so i grounded it to the car so the compressor cuts on. the pcm still says the "service ac, compressor off" message. so to the pcm the compressor isnt on. it even says ac off on my climate control module when it really is on. so since the car thinks the ac is off the fan doesnt cut on like it should when the ac is on. could that cause my motor so run a little warmer since the fan isnt cutting on until it hits 224?
 

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Super Moderator
2010 DTS
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87,543 Posts
I thought you where here long enough to know all this.

WOT = Wide Open Throttle.

Tensioner is the spring loaded pulley that keeps tension on the water pump belt. If it is not doing it's job, the belt could be slipping and not spinning the water pump like it should.

The purge line runs from the water pump housing (crossover manifold) to the top side of the surge tank. It should flow or at least spit coolant at idle. It purges air from the system.

If I understand you correctly, the compressor does not work so the fans are not on. The compressor is not putting any additional load on the engine so rule that out. The fans should come on at 224 though.
 

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1997 Eldorado
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637 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
also i have the service books and read the whole chapter on the engine cooling and it didnt say anything on my issue
 

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1997 Eldorado
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637 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I thought you where here long enough to know all this.

WOT = Wide Open Throttle.

Tensioner is the spring loaded pulley that keeps tension on the water pump belt. If it is not doing it's job, the belt could be slipping and not spinning the water pump like it should.

The purge line runs from the water pump housing (crossover manifold) to the top side of the surge tank. It should flow or at least spit coolant at idle. It purges air from the system.

If I understand you correctly, the compressor does not work so the fans are not on. The compressor is not putting any additional load on the engine so rule that out. The fans should come on at 224 though.
ok so by wot should i do it by pedal or by the throttle body? should it heat up during a wot? and how can i tell if the belt can be slipping? also the compressor is on the car thinks its off so the fan doesnt cut on when i use the ac. so by running the ac without at least one fan one wouldnt make my heat jump? and the car never goes above 232 and it rare it hits 232 normally will run 215-217 when driving city and will jump to 224-228 in idle
 

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2010 DTS
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87,543 Posts
NO TB. Never WOT in neutral. WOT is on the road with your foot firmly planted to the floor all the way to a redline shift. That said if you are running with the A/C on and no fans, that may be your problem. Very little air flow in the city, thus no cooling. Remember that the A/C condenser is in front of the radiator so all that heat is passed back over the radiator with no air flow to cool it. When you jury rig these systems you usually solve one problem, but create another.
 

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1997 Eldorado
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637 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
NO TB. Never WOT in neutral. WOT is on the road with your foot firmly planted to the floor all the way to a redline shift. That said if you are running with the A/C on and no fans, that may be your problem. Very little air flow in the city, thus no cooling. Remember that the A/C condenser is in front of the radiator so all that heat is passed back over the radiator with no air flow to cool it. When you jury rig these systems you usually solve one problem, but create another.
well im going to try running with the ground off so the ac wont work. if it my colling system is working good what should the temps be in the city running and in idle (i live in houston and its hot and humid 90's right now). so should the car heat up in wot?
 

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2010 DTS
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The reason I asked about WOT was to rule out or condemn the head gasket. A bad head gasket will usually cause the engine to heat up under a load, but I no longer think that is your problem.

My '97 (digidash) ran 205-210 during 95 degree days with the A/C on. I don't do any city driving, but if the system is operating as it should, I'd expect about the same temps. Maybe a tad higher.
 
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