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1997 Eldorado
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637 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
ok well its hot and very humid and its worse with the leather seats haha. but i recently fixed my ac and recharged it so its full. well its in good working order but 60 isnt really cutting it. is there a way to make it cooler it takes a good while for the car to fully get cold. my moms intrepid blows way cooler and harder. my old caprice had r12 and man was it cold freezing cold. i have seen some r12 cans online but can i convert the 134a to r12? i tried some freon that was synthetic and said cold air up to 50% faster but it only helped a little. anyone have an idea or found a way to make these cars ac get cooler?
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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No R134a system will cool as well as R12, and there's no way to go back to R12. REAL R12 is now only available in the black market or from a licensed dealer, and it's scary expensive.
 

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1997 Eldorado
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637 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
No R134a system will cool as well as R12, and there's no way to go back to R12. REAL R12 is now only available in the black market or from a licensed dealer, and it's scary expensive.
DAMN. anyone ever used RED TEK® 12a Hydrocarbon Refrigerant

this is from their website
RED TEK® 12a, a HC-based refrigerant from Thermofluid Technologies, is a blend of environmentally safe hydrocarbon fluids designed as a direct replacement and retrofit refrigerant option for replacing R134a and R12 refrigerants in automotive air conditioning and refrigeration systems. 12a operates at lower head pressures and offers improved cooling properties and performance verses R134a and R12.
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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Someone in here HAS used an r12 substitute in an R12 system. The older R12 systems and substitutes require different expansion valves, orifices, and maybe other parts different from R134a.
 

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1997 SLS
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550 Posts
You have a 97 so have you checked your air mix doors? Maybe a bit of warm air is leaking in thru them. Mine have both gone over the past year so they have a limited life as both the seals and actuators go on them. I will assume you have checked your freon charge and it is at the proper level.
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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.............these "bid.openx" slowdowns are a PITA. See y'all in a day or so.
 

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1997 Eldorado
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637 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
You have a 97 so have you checked your air mix doors? Maybe a bit of warm air is leaking in thru them. Mine have both gone over the past year so they have a limited life as both the seals and actuators go on them. I will assume you have checked your freon charge and it is at the proper level.
yeah its full. so how can i check the air mix doors?
 

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1997 SLS
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550 Posts
First, I assume there are no ACM codes and second your are getting a cold evaporator (just feel the aluminum tube past the orifice junction and it should be very cold and probably "sweating"). If that part of the tubing isn't cold, you could still have a freon/charge issue.
To check your air mix doors, remove the upper kick panel (plastic) on the passenger's side and disconnect the foot lamp. You should see up underneath a silver control arm that moves a threaded shaft back and forth based on the CC's commands. You can see it by rotating the AUTO knob back and forth and you should see the control arm move from side to side. There is an upper control arm too...one is for passenger and one for the driver. If the passenger's temp control is "off", you should see both arms move the same. If the movement is good, then your actuators are OK. What can sometimes happen is that the door's seal inside the plenum, which is foam rubber, can wear down allowing heat from the heater core to blend in. My guess is that if both actuators are moving correctly all the way to each side based on your commands, the air mix system is OK. If you suspect the upper actuator is bad, you need to remove the glove box to gain access to it. Again 99% of the time, a code will be posted by the DTC if the air mix system has a problem.
 

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2007 EXT Supercharged
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1,501 Posts
even in vehicles with good operating cold warm doors heat still comes in through the heater core.

I dont have any idea if you can do this on a N*, but in my 03 duramax i read to put a valve on the line to the heater core in the summer time and turn it shut....WOW!!! what a difference that made!!! that quad cab cooled right down and it was a freezer in there!!!

Ive even heard of guys doing this right of the lot. Seems to work well.
 

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1997 SLS
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550 Posts
That's the way my old 72 Skylark used to work, but those A/C water valves were problematic and would eventually leak. Add to that, for the entire summer, your heater core is stagnant which could lead to leaks in it as well.
 

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1997 Eldorado
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637 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
First, I assume there are no ACM codes and second your are getting a cold evaporator (just feel the aluminum tube past the orifice junction and it should be very cold and probably "sweating"). If that part of the tubing isn't cold, you could still have a freon/charge issue.
To check your air mix doors, remove the upper kick panel (plastic) on the passenger's side and disconnect the foot lamp. You should see up underneath a silver control arm that moves a threaded shaft back and forth based on the CC's commands. You can see it by rotating the AUTO knob back and forth and you should see the control arm move from side to side. There is an upper control arm too...one is for passenger and one for the driver. If the passenger's temp control is "off", you should see both arms move the same. If the movement is good, then your actuators are OK. What can sometimes happen is that the door's seal inside the plenum, which is foam rubber, can wear down allowing heat from the heater core to blend in. My guess is that if both actuators are moving correctly all the way to each side based on your commands, the air mix system is OK. If you suspect the upper actuator is bad, you need to remove the glove box to gain access to it. Again 99% of the time, a code will be posted by the DTC if the air mix system has a problem.
no i dont have any codes

even in vehicles with good operating cold warm doors heat still comes in through the heater core.

I dont have any idea if you can do this on a N*, but in my 03 duramax i read to put a valve on the line to the heater core in the summer time and turn it shut....WOW!!! what a difference that made!!! that quad cab cooled right down and it was a freezer in there!!!

Ive even heard of guys doing this right of the lot. Seems to work well.
i wonder if it will work on a n*
 

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Super Moderator
2010 DTS
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87,433 Posts
Yes it would work on a Northstar, but it would only have an effect IF the air mix door was leaking some.
 

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2007 EXT Supercharged
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1,501 Posts
Im not quite sure about that...

if it only works when theres a door leak.....why would people do it to vehicles right off the lot??

anyhow i doubt coolant, stagnant or not, that has anticorrosive agents in it will harm the heater core with no flow.

all i know is it worked great on my duramax, and that was in super condition.

Just put your hand down by the heater core and feel how hot it is....the cavity right next to it is cold....and drawing heat from the core area. There is no insulation between the two.
 

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1997 Eldorado
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637 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
now that i think of it i did the same thing on my caprice in the summer only the ac worked no heat and in the winter no ac just heat. my step dad helped me i just remember pulling a tube off and connecting it to another one. because if i didnt the heat would mix with the ac damn i miss that caprice so easy to work on
 

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Super Moderator
2010 DTS
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87,433 Posts
Im not quite sure about that...

if it only works when theres a door leak.....why would people do it to vehicles right off the lot??

anyhow i doubt coolant, stagnant or not, that has anticorrosive agents in it will harm the heater core with no flow.

all i know is it worked great on my duramax, and that was in super condition.

Just put your hand down by the heater core and feel how hot it is....the cavity right next to it is cold....and drawing heat from the core area. There is no insulation between the two.
Well, you might have a point. Maybe it would help. Give it a shot Talamant3z and let us know.
 

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2000 Polo Green Metallic Cadillac STS 60K
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787 Posts
Just put your hand down by the heater core and feel how hot it is....the cavity right next to it is cold....and drawing heat from the core area. There is no insulation between the two.
I was wondering why it always felt like the heat was on even though nothing was blowing out of the vents. This explains it lol.
 

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2005 Cadillac DeVille DTS
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150 Posts
How do you know the system is "full" for certain? What are the suction and discharge pressures? Cycle rate? Was the OT inspected?

Those "synthetic" so called "enhancers" are problematic, and if you added R-134a with sealer or conditioners, the system is done. TSR is the only solution.

Clamp off the heater hoses and see if vent temperatures improve after 5 to 15 minutes. An improvement of 2-3F indicates a blend door issue.

Cleaning the evap core also couldn't hurt.

Joe
 
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