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Chrome CTS LP, 04 Cluster, WW sidemarkers, lower mesh grille
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Discussion Starter #1
Ok well, I was thinking about the use of NOS. I know that a dry shot is safer than a wet shot. I also hear that a wet shot will give you the maximum performance out of it, compared to the dry, where you dont get the full power out of the shot...is this true???:confused: I am just looking at purchasing a 75 shot dry. Any help/advice would be appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Also, is a 75 shot the highest you can go on a dry shot???
 

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The Mighty Kael, 2004 Black CTS, Every Option
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alright, do your basic research before you commit to getting a NOX system.
and its NOx, not NOS. you say NOS around a hot rodder and you will get slapped and told to go hang with the ricer crowd. NOS is a company that makes NOx products.
its not magic. sure you can go more than a 75hp shot with a dry system, but you might start to break things. hell you can break things with a 50 shot.

dry means its just the nox and nothing else. these are usually in the 50 - 100hp range. this method relies on the car to add more fuel to the mix to compensate.

a wet system is both nox and fuel, it is more expensive as it adds an outside system that adds additional fuel to the nitrous charge. these usually START at the 100hp mark and go up a hell of a lot from there.

you really dont sound like you know what you are doing, if you are hell bent on doing it I would go with a 50 shot at first. you can change out the nozzles later on for your 75hp shot.
Remember, this is not magic, nox simply burns better than a normal intake charge. but burning better (read that as more explosive) means that you are putting a LOT more stress on the internals of the engine. I have seen all sorts of fun from idiots burning nitrous. melted pistions, cracked blocks, hell even a piston going through the head and up and out of the hood.

be careful, get a window switch to turn off the feed in a certain rpm so your tranny is not under load when its trying to shift. dont be a moron. make sure your trac control is off when you are spraying or BOOM. (search the cts forum for my first "mad scientist" article on the WHY of that one.
 

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1996 Fleetwood
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A dry shot is not the safest way to go with nitrous. Truthfully, the most efficient and safest is a direct port, wet system, but that's pricey too and best suited for a motor set up for nitrous. It also allows for a much higher shot, often in the 150-400 shot range. A dry shot is actually the worst way to go, because unless you've tuned for it, you'll run lean, possibly backfire, and possibly do some major damage. A wet shot is a better idea, but it seems like you're not in a position to install one yourself. Get an expert.

As for the switch... I'd lean towards a pressure button on the right side of the steering wheel, so the system lets off when he goes to shift. (A press and go, as long as you hold, it sprays sort of deal.)
 

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The Mighty Kael, 2004 Black CTS, Every Option
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-=looks up=- ??????? what the f....

a dry system sprays onto the MAF of a modern car, the maf sees a much colder and denser air charge and adds more fuel, this is not incredibly accurate but for shots in the 50 -75 hp range its more than enough.

wet is more expensive and only a little more complex on modern cars since a lot of the newer wet system tap directly into the fuel rail schrader valve for the fuel feed.
to run wet you have to make sure that your intake track can handle getting wet. WET means that you are literally spraying fuel directly into the intake. its much thicker and might gum up the works of your intake.

be reasonable with the nitrous.
 

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Kael touched on most of the important stuff. You can go over 75 with a dry kit (I had a 125 dry kit for my Camaro), but on a stock engine (meaning you haven't put in stronger rods, a high flow fuel pump, larger fuel injectors, forged pistons, upgraded head gaskets & better rings) you probably won't want to go higher than that. Changing you shot from 50 to 75 or whatever is easy. It's just a matter of changing the jetting to increase or decrease the amount of N20 sprayed. Wet & dry are pretty much the same when it comes to safety now a days. With all the progressive controllers, fuel cut off switches, window switches, WOT switches & other pills, you don't have to be too worried with a wet kit any more. Dry is a lot cheaper though. Like Kael said, with dry you're just adding N20 (not NOS please:tisk: )before the MAF sensor & the car's stock computer will read the change in the air and adjust the fuel system automaticly to add the right amount of fuel needed. You need to be sure the fuel injectors & fuel pump can handle the extra fuel needed, or you'll run lean. A wet system is a lot more complicated as it meters in extra fuel through a seperate solenoid to compensate for the N20. If one of these solenoids fail,and it'll go BOOM. You should consider window switches & WOT switches if the kit you look at doesn't have them already. As a general rule, you shouldn't spray below 2500 rpm & only spray at WOT. These switches will guarantee you do these two things & help keep you from destroying your engine & transmission. You'll also have to run 93 octane or better & a step cooler of a plug would help too.
 

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A dry shot is actually the worst way to go, because unless you've tuned for it, you'll run lean, possibly backfire, and possibly do some major damage.
WHAT?!? Ok, I don't know how to say this, but you're 100% wrong! The best part about a dry kit is not having to tune for it! The MAF will do the adjustments for you. There are some people that will adjust the timing a couple of degrees, but it's not necessary.
 

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...and its NOx, not NOS. you say NOS around a hot rodder and you will get slapped and told to go hang with the ricer crowd..
:histeric: :histeric: Hey, I'm trying to eat lunch here. You made me spit ham & swiss on my keyboard. LMAO!!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
lol, sorry about the NOS instead of NOX...but I really dont know too my shyt about it...havent done research either. I just need more speed in this 3.2l lack of performance. I dont think I want to get into the wet NOX systems.

You guys have been VERY informational. I really dont want to go anywhere past a 75 shot, due to the fact of the rear diff purposes. I know they have adjustable kits out there which is GREAT. I will probably start out with 50 and if I feel the car can handle more, I will bump it to 75. All I want to do is beat a stock mustang GT damnit!!!!:banghead: like a 03.

You guys say to put it before the MAF, So would that mean that I shouldnt have it going directly into the throttle body?? That is where I was thinking about having it inject into.

This is the one I was looking at purchasing...let me know what you guys think....

http://www.streetbeatcustoms.com/gmallefistag.html
 

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Ha, what are the odds! I was about to PM you a link to the NX website for that very kit! That's what I would go with if I was going to spray my CTS. I would add a remote bottle opener & a blow down tube. And if ya wanna look Kool, a purge valve so you can spray at those Mustangs.
 

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It should be mounted on the air cleaner side of the MAF sensor. If it was me, I'd hide the solenoids & the lines and put the nozzels on the underside of the air intake so when you pop the hood it's all hidden & looks stock.
 

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-=looks up=- ??????? what the f....

a dry system sprays onto the MAF of a modern car, the maf sees a much colder and denser air charge and adds more fuel, this is not incredibly accurate but for shots in the 50 -75 hp range its more than enough.
.

Ever heard the term open loop? The MAF, at least on some of the older vehicles, goes dumb at full throttle, and stops regulating the a/f. Additionally, even if the MAF does adjust, there's limits as to how far it will adjust.



(And I ran nitrous for an extended period of time, lifted some heads, ejected a MAF through my air intake, blew a hole on an intake manifold, etc.)
 

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Oh additionally I wouldn't go the nitrous route at all. It's cheap to start, but you'll find it turns into its own car payment. I was a bottle a week habit. At $26 a bottle, that got expensive. Oh, I had a 125 and a 150 shot, direct port, wet shot, each intake runner had a jet. 97 Eldorado. Save some $ up, and either do a cam, or headers, etc. You'll be happier when you've always got the power, not this scene *stomp the gas, throw the switch, nothing happens* "Damn, tank wasn't open" or "Damn tank's empty again! Crap!!!"
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Oh additionally I wouldn't go the nitrous route at all. It's cheap to start, but you'll find it turns into its own car payment. I was a bottle a week habit. At $26 a bottle, that got expensive. Oh, I had a 125 and a 150 shot, direct port, wet shot, each intake runner had a jet. 97 Eldorado. Save some $ up, and either do a cam, or headers, etc. You'll be happier when you've always got the power, not this scene *stomp the gas, throw the switch, nothing happens* "Damn, tank wasn't open" or "Damn tank's empty again! Crap!!!"

hehehehe...I dont mind the expense out of having to refill the bottle. I would only use it when someone comes up next to me I know I cant beat(mustang Gt) arrrggggg...so it wouldnt be like me using it everyday for no reason. I dont look for races, usually they find me.

How long can you use a 10 lb bottle before it goes empty??
 

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hehehehe...I dont mind the expense out of having to refill the bottle. I would only use it when someone comes up next to me I know I cant beat(mustang Gt) arrrggggg...so it wouldnt be like me using it everyday for no reason. I dont look for races, usually they find me.

How long can you use a 10 lb bottle before it goes empty??
U r in a 3.2 so its like, rustang GT, G35, 300C, charger, SRT4, 330, Maxima...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I doubt I could beat all of those....especially the SRT4..that would pwn me. With the NOX I am pretty sure I can take those other guys too. AS long as I can beat a mustang Gt which seems like them ost common car here on the road in my area of florida, I am totally freakin happy!!!

I still want to know how long a 10 lb bottle could be used before empty though
 

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Pretty much every dry kit now a days comes with a WOT switch, which goes to prove they're intended to work at and only at WOT.

How long your bottle last depends on a couple of different things...how big are your jets & how long you spray for. There's different ways to spray too. You can spray off the line once you get to a safe RPM & just keep spraying, or spray through the top of you power band in each gear & let off before shifts (that's easier on a stock tranny), or wait until you're up to speed in 3rd or 4th & hit it until the GT guys are in your rear view. If you're conservative, it'll last longer. But you'll probably turn into a Juice Junky and go looking for trouble & go through a bottle in a night. I'm not sure about a 50-75 shot, but you should be able to get 10 good runs or better out of it, spraying like a Mother F-er
 

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Well... On my 4.6 V8, 125 shot, I had 5-6 runs, at 14 seconds a run, so 60-90 seconds worht on that, You might have 2-2.5 minutes worth of juice. Maybe 3-3.5 minutes max. And I said I'd only use it to play catchup on faster cars. Then I used it once, and said "Ooo... That's fun, gimme some open road to do it again"
 
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