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2010 DTS
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Flow is from the line to the tank, so it should flow from the line you are holding. That's why I said quickly plug it back on if it flows so as not to make too much of a mess.
 
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The Northstar was designed and tested to run with NO coolant for 50 miles, alternately shutting down each bank of injectors and pumping air through them to cool it WITHOUT doing any damage.
So thoughtful of GM to do that.:lildevil:
 

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1998 Deville
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32 Posts
Discussion Starter #43
I took the chance on driving to work today. This is the 1st big run since I have gotten it back from the Radiator shop. Moderate to Light traffic. No overheating at all. For 90% of the trip, it ran at 201-205. As I got off the highway, it did spike to 233, but as I got moving it started going down all the way to 210, as I pulled in to my parking spot. The big test will be tonight when I go home.

One strange thing though. My heat is running, it feels like on low. My A/C and fans are not on, but i feel heat coming from the floor board in the front and back seats. WTF!
 

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1997 Eldorado
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637 Posts
So Sub, if it boils before 256, it could be the rad cap? It started to boildat around 230-235.

Anyone else have their block test turn green, not yellow? I think I will have to take it to a rad shop for a bottom line analysis. Thoughts or suggestions welcome.

Thanks for all of your help so far.
i got green but i tested wrong. i didnt have instructions so i guessed on the test. i turned the car on and held the tube in the coolant tank then it boiled over and the coolant got into the test tube heres my pic its from my cell phone so it isnt too good of a pic



 

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1998 Deville
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32 Posts
Discussion Starter #45
Thanks T. I had it re-tested by someone that knew how to do it. It remained blue. BTW, the temp spiking to 233 is not serious, getting off highway after about a 22 minute drive, is it?

Also, no one ever commented on the heat running, even though the control center is not on.
 

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2010 DTS
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Even with the fans off you'll get some ram air effect through the system. Turning the system off Might stop it or lowering the temp to 60.
 

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1998 Deville
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32 Posts
Discussion Starter #47
Great, thanks. I'll try that tonight. I'm off to my "going home" test for the evening. I hope I make it.
 
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Your head gaskets are on their way out. Next step is being stranded on the side of the road. Ranger will have you do a million tests and give you a bazillion scenarios and ultimately make you waste time and money. He dislikes me saying this, he dislikes the fact that I'm right every time too. Good luck to you. :cookoo:
 

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1998 Deville
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32 Posts
Discussion Starter #49
Wow, the animosity is thick in here! I have road hazard insurance, so having the vehicle towed to my house is not a big issue, since i get 100% reimbursement. I live in a pretty big city, so tow trucks are at a premium. I have had no issues in the past 2 days driving 35 minutes to wrok and back.:)
 

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2004 deville
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37 Posts
My deville was loosing coolant too and was running hot and i was convinced that it was the head gaskets too because of the comments made by destroyer..but it turned out that it was just my radiator leaking. I almost got rid of it because of my worries. Replaced the radiator and drove it for another 5000 miles before buying a newer deville.

So it's NOT always the head gaskets..mine had well over 180,000 miles on it and the head gaskets never went bad.

Mine also pretty consistantly ran at about 222 degrees and would regularly shoot up to 230 once I exited the freeway.
 

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1998 Deville
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32 Posts
Discussion Starter #51
Thanks for the vote of confidence TorquedWench. I have a relative that only buys caddys (last 20 years or so) and last year when my car heated up, his 1st response was the head gasket was shot, but he too discovered a hole in the radiator was the culprit. I changed out the rad and have driven to this point with no issues until lately. That's about 17,000 miles in 13 months.

I did have a bad heater core. Ever since I changed it out and had the rad shop blow all the air out, it has not reached 240. Anything over 217 has been as I was exiting. The real test will come in rush hour traffic. I'll keep you guys informed. :D
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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Not sure about the Deville, but my STS owner's manual has a cryptic note that ".......system will try to maintain the last temperature setting even though it is OFF........."

Sooooooo.........on a nice, cool, dry day I set the temps to 60 and then turn it all off. (I never, and I mean never run with the system in AUTO - too much wasted A/C compressor time.) It's almost an automatic reflex now - if the system starts up in AUTO, I hit the A/C button to turn the compressor off and then set the airflow how I want it that day..
 

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2010 DTS
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You are relatively new here, but it won't take you long to figure out who is trying to help and who is not. Destroyer had a head gasket go and is unable to accept it yet. A no start is a head gasket problem to him. He just sticks around because misery loves company and he enjoys seeing others have the same loss he did. You may well have a HG beginning to go. None of your tests have been conclusive. There is only one test, and I believe I already told you to do it and it came back negative. Try it again. Or you could go and follow sour grapes advice and junk the car, fix the HG or replace the engine without knowing for sure.
 
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YDestroyer had a head gasket go and is unable to accept it yet. A no start is a head gasket problem to him. He just sticks around because misery loves company and he enjoys seeing others have the same loss he did.
It was a car not my damn kids man. I'm over it, I have bought at least another 10 cars after that Deville. I stick around cause I like Cadillacs and owned one of these FWD N* piles of crap not because "misery loves company". If I believed the H/G issues was not "THAT big a problem" and that my case was a rarity I may have bought another. Actually the oil consumption problem was Pi**ing me off too so I wouldn't have bought another:duck:. :cool2:
 

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1998 Deville
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32 Posts
Discussion Starter #55 (Edited)
I might be done for. I have driven for 3 days and the temp never got above 233, and that's only as I come off the freeway. Today I'm driving and for 80% of the trip I run between 201 and 217. What then happens is the temp goes up maybe 10 degreens then back down 6. It then incrementally shoots up the ten degrees and steps up an additional 10. Long story short. the coolant temp got to 262 as I pulled into my driveway, with coolant spilling out of the overflow hose.

In 20 minute spurts, it seems the vehicle drives perfectly fine. Anything over 20 minutes and the temp gradually goes up. I'm at a loss as I have done the block test and it came back negative. There is no slimey residue coming from the tailpipe, no smoke. Other than the radiator shop saying there was (lots) of water in the exhaust, I have no idea what is going on. I'd hate to fix the head gaskets, then discover it was something else all together.

Any thoughts guys?
 

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2010 DTS
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It does not sound good. You could have a cylinder leak down test done. That is definitive and will not give a false negative. Might ask the muffler shop just how they know that there is a lot of coolant in the exhaust. That also would be very definitive.
 

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1998 Deville
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32 Posts
Discussion Starter #57
I finally got down to pulling the purge line as you suggested Ranger. Very little coolant flowed at disconnect ofthe line. At times no coolant flowed for at least 5-8 seconds. As I revved the engine, a little more coolant came out, but never consistenly. Should the coolant flow be steady or just intermittent? I will take a wire to it tomorrow, then try test again.

My bad on waiting so long to pull the purge line. :thepan:
 

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2010 DTS
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The fact that you got some coolant leads me to believe it is open. I think flow at idle is light and intermittent, though I would expect more than a 5-8 second stop, but it should increase with RPM.
 

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1997 Seville STS, 2000 Seville STS
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Purge line should constantly flow just water, little bit at idle, lots at higher RPMs. At higher RPMs the water stream should shoot a couple of feet out the end of the tube. If its spitting then there is air (or combustion gas) in the crossover pipe which will cause the water pump to cavitate and decrease the flow rate out of the pump. If its not flowing at all, or just trickling out it may be plugged or partially plugged at the fitting near the water pump.
 
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