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1998 Deville
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Discussion Starter #21
Tested again, this time got green, but not yellow. Can that be? I thought the only way for it to turn green was if it is a diesel engine? Let me know.
 

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I've never used the test kit so I don't know anything about it or what colors it is supposed to turn.
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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Test fluid turns yellow. Both fans run in slow with an A/C function. Check your surge tank cap. It MUST hold at least 16 psi to keep boilover at ~256 degrees. Fill the surge tank to halfway, COLD, no more.
 

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1998 Deville
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Discussion Starter #24
So Sub, if it boils before 256, it could be the rad cap? It started to boildat around 230-235.

Anyone else have their block test turn green, not yellow? I think I will have to take it to a rad shop for a bottom line analysis. Thoughts or suggestions welcome.

Thanks for all of your help so far.
 

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Did it actually "boil"? False boiling is when a head gasket fails and exhaust gases are pumped into the cooling system. The gases make their way to the tank and as the pressure builds, they vent through the overflow which appears to be boil over. This can happen even when the engine is cold. If it truly was boiling at 230-235, then the cap is not holding pressure.
 

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1998 Deville
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Discussion Starter #26
Thanks again Ranger. So my understanding is, if it is boiling before 259, it may be the pressure cap. It was definately boiling before that. In other post on the forum, I've read the 5 different reasons for boil over of the anti freeze, and that is one of them.

Also, based on what the rad shop is teling me, I may have sucked fluid into the test by mistake, due to the boiling. That is why the dye turned green. Does anyone have an idea temp to begin the block test?

I have it at a rad shop this morning. I shold know something shortly. I will update to keep others informed.
 

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95 sedan deville
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well this may or may not help...but I had a roughly same thing on couple of different cars

latest ebing my mazda truck

I had a rad blw BAD on the highway and nowhere to pull off for almost 3 miles...soooo...kept going. Thought for sure I had blown the block or damaged something bad. I replaced the rad, filled with fluid and got home which was the important part...after that I went out the next day and she was low on coolant which I expected and I fill up and sat and waited (I had my fans off..I put in electrics on the truck and a manual controlled switch) and waited and let it get up to temp and had the cap off the rad...had to let it BURP all the air that had gotten in the system...and there apparently was ALOT...cuz it took me 45 minutes of allowing it to burp like that before it calmed down...it would look like it was stopping and such...eventually I shut the truck off, left the cap off and went insude for a bit...came out about 3 hours later and redid it again and it finally started calming down....so 45 mins on a 4 cyclinder with a TINY radiator. And I had the gurgling from the overflow as well

So you may just have lots of air in there and need to let it burp it all out.

dont read too much into it.

I have had a hundred people tell me my block was done for, gasket blown....bla bla bla....and it was simply air left over in the system

may not be in your case but its something to look into before you going throwing $$ at something that you dont necessarily need yet
 

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The Northstar is self purging. As long as the purge line is clear and flows coolant, there can be no air in the system (unless of coarse the pistons are pumping exhaust gases into it).
 

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1998 Deville
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Discussion Starter #29
Rad shop looked at it today. Informed me there may be head issues. They checked the pressure, ...all good) Pushed all air pressure out the exhaust (don't quite understand that), then refilled reservoir with antifreeze. He ran it for an hour straight, no temp above 225. He did say there was lots of air built up in the system that had to be pushed out.

He did say there was lots of WATER in the muffler and exhaust, not antifreeze, saying that may be why I'm not seeing smoke or steam. They are about 10 miles from my house, but he said I would have no problem getting it back home, based on his analysis. Any thought are welcome. "I love this forum!"
 

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He did say there was lots of air built up in the system that had to be pushed out.
Is the purge line clear?
He did say there was lots of WATER in the muffler and exhaust, not antifreeze
Are the weep holes in the muffler open so condensation can drain?
 

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1998 Deville
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Discussion Starter #31
Good question. I will check tomorrow when I pick up. I keep hearing about the purge line. This is gonna sound stupid, but here goes: Is the purge line the front most hose running from the tank to the motor, or is it the same as the overflow line? that hangs down beside the tank. (I told you I would sound stupid)
 

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No, it's not the overflow. It is a 3/8" line that runs from near the top of the surge tank to the crossover manifold.
 

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1998 Deville
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Discussion Starter #33
Got it. The weep holes are fine. Also the purge line was clear. The bozo took it off and literally blew through it while I was standing there, and it came up through the overflow tank (bubbles). He said I'm losing about 1 1/2 inches of fluid every 3 hours of driving. What the...

I drove it home and never got above 208. That's approx 10 miles, street traffic. What to do now??????
 

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1998 Deville
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Discussion Starter #37
I paid $400 US including parts and labor. They wanted to charge more, but I told them i can get a refurb for $25. They were trying to get $160 for the GM part. Don't fall for it.
 

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1998 Deville
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Discussion Starter #38
OK, had engine block test done by professionals. The test fluid remains blue, never yellow. I idled the vehicle for 1 1/2 hours and coolant temp never got above 222, then fans kicked on as they are supposed to, then went back down to 213. Rinse, repeat, but never above 222. I did not run with the A/C or heater on.

I also did not lose any coolant from the 10 mile trip from the mechanic to the house. Also my pressure test came back with flying colors.

Now What.:cookoo:
 

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Got it. The weep holes are fine. Also the purge line was clear. The bozo took it off and literally blew through it while I was standing there, and it came up through the overflow tank (bubbles). He said I'm losing about 1 1/2 inches of fluid every 3 hours of driving. What the...

I drove it home and never got above 208. That's approx 10 miles, street traffic. What to do now??????
That is not the way to check it. The clog usually occurs where it connects to the crossover. It connects to a hollow bolt and that is the most restrictive point and where it will clog, usually from the sealant tab residue. Loosen the clamp at the surge tank. Start the engine, cold. Pull the purge line from the tank. If there is any coolant flow, quickly plug it back on and reclamp it, all is well. If not, rev the engine a bit. If still no flow, pull the line at the other end and clear the obstruction.
 

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1998 Deville
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Discussion Starter #40
Dumb question: Should the fluid flow from the actual purge line I'm holding or from the tank?
 
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