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Another stock air box mod?

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12K views 58 replies 13 participants last post by  redheadedrod  
#1 ·
So I have been rattling my brain with a new concept for a stock air box mod idea.
So basically I want to put an after market high flow dry air filter in the stock air box.
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#3 ·
Useless exercise in spending hyped money. - of course, it looks trick - so that's good for 1.52 hp at idle, especially with the supplied sticker on the left rear quarter window.

As posted, the stock air filter flows more air than the engine or existing ducting system can use. (and probably traps more smaller micron "dirt" in the process)

Your call, your money, your opinion.
 
#8 ·
Without a lab-certified micron filtrate spec the only 'performance' outcome of one of those flattened out cone filters will be to allow larger and a greater amount of contaminants into the combustion chambers of the engine.

Cliffs: Best to steer to a known tested good quality brand oem regular cartridge filter. Better air filtering quality air filtering. And just conjecturing it won't cost ANYWHERE near $65.
 
#9 ·
$65 for a panel air filter is pure unadulterated highway robbery.

A bunch of hp? How about zero.

There is no way that cutting holes in the already free-flowing CAI factory setup will "deepen the (exhaust) note".

As with all other performance modification attempts, before and after dyno runs or timeslips are the only way to tell if you have accomplished anything - or have actually hurt performance.
 
#12 · (Edited by Moderator)
It was the cheapest one I could find.
It’s a dry media performance filter. So no oil gumming up the MAF sensor.

Without a lab-certified micron filtrate spec the only 'performance' outcome of one of those flattened out cone filters will be to allow larger and a greater amount of contaminants into the combustion chambers of the engine.

Cliffs: Best to steer to a known tested good quality brand oem regular cartridge filter. Better air filtering quality air filtering. And just conjecturing it won't cost ANYWHERE near $65.
Did my research already on this product, it is a reputable company based in California.

I sa
$65 for a panel air filter is pure unadulterated highway robbery.

A bunch of hp? How about zero.

There is no way that cutting holes in the already free-flowing CAI factory setup will "deepen the (exhaust) note".

As with all other performance modification attempts, before and after dyno runs or timeslips are the only way to tell if you have accomplished anything - or have actually hurt performance.
i said it wouldn’t add a bunch of hp. And I didn’t say it would be a dramatic change in exhaust note.
 
#16 ·
No one is making fun of anyone. We're trying to advise you how to keep the car clean and well-maintained without throwing unnecessary money at it - or unnecessarily butchering the already-adequate stock airbox - which is the same one used on the 556 hp supercharged -V version. That $65 air filter is a total waste of money.

We've all been there, done that. Just passing down knowledge and experience - been wrenching and building since my first car in 1954.
 
#18 ·
Why wash - and push dirt through the media - when you can simply remove a $7.00 filter and throw it away at 20,000 miles. That gives you over 150,000 miles of perfectly good air filters for your $65 + shipping.
 
#20 ·
(1.) So I have been rattling my brain with a new concept for a stock air box mod idea.
So basically I want to put an after market high flow dry air filter in the stock air box.
(2.) Is this a forum to help people or one to try and make fun of someone that doesn’t know as much as the next guy?
(3.) I’m not a master mechanic but I’m not a dumbass either.
So, True-,
3 things.
1. The concept of quote, "putting an after market high flow dry air filter in the stock air box" is nothing new.
2. Nobody is making fun of you. --> BUT <--, no fewer than 6 fellas have provided 12 posts with multiple and repeatedly credible explanations for a straightforward 'Just Don't Do It'. This is compared to your 1/3 of all total posts insisting on, "Yab-but."
3. Nobody is calling you a dumbass, but it doesn't take a master mechanic either to gauge that you're simply hunting validation to treat your ride to an expensive shiny new object stuck under the hood.

You've been given mathematically quantified and documented reasons why it'll not only not do anything for improved operating performance for your particular model car, but that it'll actually promote degraded operating life from increased wear. But we all do aimless stuff to personalize and distinguish our rigs. So, if you want to stick a fancy filter in the airbox to make a more manly grumbly noise, then 'Just Do It'. But do it for that reason, simple as that eh.
 
#21 ·
So, True-,
3 things.
1. The concept of quote, "putting an after market high flow dry air filter in the stock air box" is nothing new.
2. Nobody is making fun of you. --> BUT <--, no fewer than 6 fellas have provided 12 posts with multiple and repeatedly credible explanations for a straightforward 'Just Don't Do It'. This is compared to your 1/3 of all total posts insisting on, "Yab-but."
3. Nobody is calling you a dumbass, but it doesn't take a master mechanic either to gauge that you're simply hunting validation to treat your ride to an expensive shiny new object stuck under the hood.

You've been given mathematically quantified and documented reasons why it'll not only not do anything for improved operating performance for your particular model car, but that it'll actually promote degraded operating life from increased wear. But we all do aimless stuff to personalize and distinguish our rigs. So, if you want to stick a fancy filter in the airbox to make a more manly grumbly noise, then 'Just Do It'. But do it for that reason, simple as that eh.
I agree
Just wishing this platform had easier performance upgrades and more options.
 
#40 ·
Conventional wisdom is that any car that can keep pace with $1/4million+ go-fasts is gonna hunt hard for any way it can to cost more than $100k retail. That mid-engine honey is the ONLY American rig to brag on with the rest of the globe's hypercars.

IMHO.
 
#51 ·
Which company made this "AC Delco" branded fuel pump for my 2002 ?

DELPHI is a parts and development division of GM. They worked with Lord Corp. to develop the first MRC (Magnetic Ride Control) system for the late STS line.

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#52 ·
Do they naysayers have dyno results to prove that a cai doesn't work? Time slips have too many variables and would never believe that for anything. How about a cai in conjuction with a larger throttle body and new exhaust, etc? Does that help? They are too expensive to do nothing, aren't they? I understand your perspective, but it isn't just about the amount of airflow, also the temp, correct? Do they at least help cool the air?

I want to know because one just showed up on my doorstep, and I spent way too much if it doesn't help. I will return it and save my money for more important things...like bourbon, and stuff.
 
#55 ·
The cars already come with a perfectly adequate "CAI" and filter from the factory. By definition a CAI receives "cooler" intake air from a source outside the engine compartment, usually the lower grille area or in a fenderwell. ANY part of the air ducting in the engine compartment is subject to heating from engine radiation and ambient airflow. ANY part of the air ducting in the engine compartment will heat during slow speed low throttle opening (almost NO intake airflow) - and slamming the throttle wide open allows the incoming air to cool down the ducting - but it takes a while - not seconds or milliseconds - minutes. Yes, at sudden WOT the inrush air charge will be cooler than what was present during the low speed operation - with ANY "CAI". For hard evidence of the time it takes to heat/cool/heat the air ducting you can monitor IAT - Intake Air Temperature - using a laptop app, ScanGauge-II or UltraGauge. They plug into the OBD port and you can watch any 4 of over a dozen "gauges" supported by the vehicle OBD in real time. Very informative. When you leave the city and hit the Interstate with a hot intake air tract the throttle is still open only 7% to 10% at 65 mph so it takes quite a while for the ducting to cool to about 6 - 10 degrees above outside air temp. Minutes. The IAT sticks into the incoming airstream - you'll be amazed at how slowly it changes.

I use a ScanGauge-II and monitor IAT, ECT, IGN, and MAP.
 
#56 ·
The cars already come with a perfectly adequate "CAI" and filter from the factory.................
So basically the claims from the manufacturers are absolute best case scenario on a perfect day it seems. It is almost criminal how that is allowed to happen. I was hoping that the cai as part of a "system" of upgrades I wanted to do, would make enough hp difference to matter. It is about $100 / hp but apparently that is misleading, as only under ideal conditions would even be that good.

Thank you for your input.

I made a new post addressing a few things I purchased and was hoping to add some power. Maybe you could look at that and leave your input there also.
 
#57 ·
Power gain in a stock motor vehicle - especially nowadays, given the high state of tune and electronic control - is an elusive goal. Most of the time we're looking at 2, 3, 4 hp here and there so it takes quite a bit of test & tune to get meaningful, safe, reliable modifications done. Most modern vehicle tuners are also hampered by the EPA and local emissions requirements as well as the lack of aftermarket parts support due to low or no demand. One of our CF members did a full-mod turbo install in a 1999 STS Northstar - did some staggeringly impressive trap times - played with it for a while, detuned it for the street and sold it. After sinking over $18,500 into the work - so it can be done, but it's nowhere near plug & play............. You must test after each mod to see whether you have improved or gone backwards - install several new toys at the same time and you have no idea which ones helped or hurt.

You might get in touch with one of our tuner CF members - TwinTurboFan or TapOutTuning (?) comes to mind - and ask a few questions before you begin. I was a big block and SBC builder so the newer V6 and turbo stuff is not high on my knowledge list.

Here's one of my Olds 455 marine conversion builds - many tricks - (I love me pics) -

Image
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#58 ·
Power gain in a stock motor vehicle - especially nowadays, given the high state of tune and electronic control - is an elusive goal. Most of the time we're looking at 2, 3, 4 hp here and there so it takes quite a bit of test & tune to get meaningful, safe, reliable modifications done. Most modern vehicle tuners are also hampered by the EPA and local emissions requirements as well as the lack of aftermarket parts support due to low or no demand. One of our CF members did a full-mod turbo install in a 1999 STS Northstar - did some staggeringly impressive trap times - played with it for a while, detuned it for the street and sold it. After sinking over $18,500 into the work - so it can be done, but it's nowhere near plug & play............. You must test after each mod to see whether you have improved or gone backwards - install several new toys at the same time and you have no idea which ones helped or hurt.

You might get in touch with one of our tuner CF members - TwinTurboFan or TapOutTuning (?) comes to mind - and ask a few questions before you begin. I was a big block and SBC builder so the newer V6 and turbo stuff is not high on my knowledge list.

Here's one of my Olds 455 marine conversion builds - many tricks - (I love me pics) -

View attachment 618602 View attachment 618603
Recognize those finned exhaust ports! Bro-in-law is currently rebuilding the 455 Olds marine that was in his jetboat about 40 years ago...intent is to install in his '86 Monte Carlo SS, which was already stout with his Rick Stenhouse (Memphis Motor Mafia) built 383 stroker...gonna be interesting.