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Hi everyone, I am new to this, but not a total dummy. I was married to a mechanic for 21 years, so I do know a little, but I need some help. I have a 95 Seville SLS Northstar. Everything was fine until the divorce and now I don't have a mechanic to help me out. I have been experiencing some problems with this car and needs some advice. First of all, we purchased the car used about 3 year ago. The front struts have been replaced for sure. Not sure about all. I just know it cost $1600 and the X did the work. Now I have this error message to "service ride control" light that stays on. It does not ride good at all to me. So could the struts have wore out that quick? Or what? I do know that the leveling system is not working, the motor in the back of the car underneath kicks on. But this is not all. The other night my "Check oil level" light came on, then my "service engine soon" light, I had just recently had my oil changed at Walmart. I was in a panic. Then my engine started to surge making my tac go up and down, the ABS light came on, the "Battery high volts, then low volts, then no charge light comes on, my air bag light, and the dashboard just went haywire. I was trying to get home, and kept driving about 6 miles. I certainly hope i didn't screw anything up. I had a guy look at it today and he gave me a jump, it started fine. He then said we will unhook the battery and if the car still runs, it was not the alternator. If it died, then we knew it was. CAN anyone tell me if this is correct? I really don't have $200 for an alternator, much less paying someone to put it on. I kinda hoped it was battery.....alot cheaper. ha. Anyway, my car is dead, parked in the drive, with no way to work. Could someone please give me so help? Tell me what I should do.
Thanks for taking the time to read all my problems! Lin
 

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2008 SRX-V8, 1991 Eldorado
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Just my 2¢

Unhooking the battery while the car was running was very hazardous to the computer system, let alone your personal safety. Not a good practice these days.

Removing the "NEG" battery cable is sufficient to disarm the computer systems while performing maintenance. Removing the negative terminal after resetting the computer codes in the DIC (Driver Information Center) is also a good idea.

First step is to record all the codes set by the DIC. Clear all the codes. You will find the procedure by using the search button in the bar that has CP as the first selection on the left of this forum, and log out as the last selection on the right. Remove the negative battery cable for about one minute (or enough time to wipe your hands, then put it back on). Drive the car around the block and check to see which codes are new. Record the new codes. The new codes will help to determine what problems are current. Post them here or look them up yourself in the OBD I section.

No, it is not very likely the struts need to be replaced again. It is more likely that a sensor or sensor connection is bad. The ride control is not always specific to front or rear. The more you learn about the stored codes, the better you will begin to understand your car.

There is a lot of diagnostic help and repair that you can do yourself without spending a penny. The key is to learn all you can first and spend only what you must to make the repair.

Any questions, post them here.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for your input!! I am working on it now! I'll get back to ya and let ya know what happened. Lin
 

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Well folks i got my car fixed. It was really funny. I spent $115 on a rebuilt alternator, then I called around to get prices on someone putting it in. They were so far off from my budget it was bad. Then I called my local service station and ask what it would cost to put it in and they told me $35. I thought they must be crazy. But oh well, so I took it to them at lunch time. About 2 hours later, the mechanic called and I figured he wanted to tell me he undercharged the job, but what he said was really funny. He said he couldn't figure out how to get to this thing, but he was working on it. I said well I found this terrific website with help on cadillacs. I told him that you could go through the wheel well, take the fan thing off and undo the plate with four bolts and then he could. He said he would figure it out. Well at 5pm after work it still was not finished. I waited 30 more minutes and they finally got it done. He said if he had not know about the plate, he probably wouldn't have got it done that day. Anyway I thank everyone for this website and its help. I got my car fixed for $160. YIPPEE!! Now I have more problems, but i'll post them later.
Lin
 

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13 Challenger RT, 11 CTS Coupe Premium, 94 Eldorado (RIP)
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Well, it is good to hear that part is fixed. I would be weary of the mechanic you used though. Even without knowing beforehand about the plate with 4 bolts, he should have figured it out if he lifted the vehicle. the job shouldn't have took that long, but for $35 labor...

About your oil level warning, these North*s take 7.5 quarts to fill. I suspect the tech at walmart wasn't familiar with this and most likely underfilled your engine.

To get your codes, with the ignition on, press and hold the OFF button and the WARMER (RED) button on your climate control panel until everything lights up. Copy all codes. Testing is done when PCM? is showing. Turn the ignition off.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok i figured out how to get the codes. This is what came up
History:
P052, P109, I052, S036, S044
No ACP Codes
No SIR Codes
No TCS Codes
Current:
S038
Can you elaborate on these codes? I looked them up and I do know that the first 3 listed are due to memory loss. I don't understand the other 2. I assume the ones with NO are all ok. The current one refers to the history codes above. If you can explain, I'd appreciate it. At least I'd know what direction to start.
Thanks, Lin
 

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13 Challenger RT, 11 CTS Coupe Premium, 94 Eldorado (RIP)
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S036, S038 - your level control system is inoperative due to a problem with your level control compressor. This is going to hamper the drivability of your vehicle though.
 

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94 Eldorado, and a 99 ETC
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This isn't going to hamper the drivability of your vehicle though.
Here, I corrected it for you.




S036-----Electronic Level Control Compressor Short to Ground/Open
S038-----Electronic Level Control Exhaust Valve Short to Ground/Open
S044-----Lift or Dive Signal Fault (probably a computer fart)
P052 (E052)-----PCM Memory Reset (from unplugging the battery)
P109 (E109)-----Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Reset/PCM has lost primary battery power (from unplugging the battery)
I052-----Keep Alive Memory Error (from unplugging the battery)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Eldyfig said:
S036, S038 - your level control system is inoperative due to a problem with your level control compressor. This is going to hamper the drivability of your vehicle though.
Ok I appreciate the info. So I just need someone to check out the compressor? I had the front end aligned but it don't seem right and the guy that did it said he checked the lines and they looked ok. He didn't check the compressor though. It does ride terrible to me, from the way it use to. I was surely hoping to find it was something simple. Maybe that will fix the problem because I really hate to sell it, but I have not the means to keep it up either. Again thanks.
Lin
 

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my 1995 STS acts up as well and I need help BAD!!! First off she has about 189K on her and I paid $4040.00 exactly for it two years ago, when she had 162K on her, did a tune up and new exhaust when I first got it, was told that I needed new mounts then, never got around to doing, the dogbone style ones up top are showin some wear, My tranny was acting up reving hard into second, and always wanting to slam back down to like 1500rpms right when you let up of the gas, even at interstate speeds, Im pretty sure the tranny needs some work. About a year ago, I had a problem where it wouldnt start at all, I ripped apart the steering column thinkin it was the ignition swith, wasnt that, so I had it towed up to Cadillac where the said the transmission transponder switch was messed up and the car couldnt tell wheather it was in park or drive. That was $450 right there. Now present day im stuck with the same dilema, go to start it and nothing no wanting to start or even a turn over, it just clicks from under the hood, like the something is relieving presure, (have yet to get the recall fixed on the fuel rail) Sometime though about a month ago, it would go in and out, like go on a streak where it would start for like 3 or 4 days and then go on a 2 week streak of not starting, and now its been sitting for atleast 3 weeks on its longest sitting period to date. Im pretty sure but not positive its not the starter, not the alternator, replace the battery today, and Im clueless what it could be. I can pull up trouble codes but most of them arent on the online look-up thing that everyone on here uses. If anyone can share info that will help I would appreciate it. Someone also said something about the ignition coil?? INPUT NEEDED!!
 
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