I did this alternative fix recently, and upon doing some searching (not very deep, I'll admit) I can't find that anyone else has mentioned it. It's essentially putting the load resistor on the rear turn signal circuit rather than the front.
Anyone who has done minimal research on LED conversions for our DRL/TS knows that hyper flash must be addressed. This has typically (to my knowledge) been addressed in one of two ways. One less used way is to crack open the flasher module itself and disable the hyper flash. The second is to attach load resistors to the circuit between the module and the new bulb.
Load resistors are a much easier option, but have the drawback of getting hot. This has required the load resistors to be mounted on a metal fixture (preferably in a place with air flow and away from anything you value). This is because our cars use the same bulb filaments for TS and DRL, and that means current is almost always going through the resistor, making it hot. But since the hyper flash is essentially "seeing" the resistance in the entire flasher circuit, it really doesn't matter where in the circuit the extra current flows. As such, I put the load resistors on the rear turn signals. I still mounted them on a metal surface to be sure though.
This fixes the hyper flash and, in theory, the hot resistor problem. Since the only time the load resistor has current passing through it is when the bulb for the turn signal is on (which is not very much of the time) it does not get hot. I suppose technically it would warm up if one sat with the turn signal on for an extended period of time or had to have hazards on for a while. I was concerned that the resistor (providing what is essentially a current shunt) may make the rear signal look sickly, but it does not.
I've had the car like this for a while now and it works perfectly.
Has anyone else done it this way?
Anyone who has done minimal research on LED conversions for our DRL/TS knows that hyper flash must be addressed. This has typically (to my knowledge) been addressed in one of two ways. One less used way is to crack open the flasher module itself and disable the hyper flash. The second is to attach load resistors to the circuit between the module and the new bulb.
Load resistors are a much easier option, but have the drawback of getting hot. This has required the load resistors to be mounted on a metal fixture (preferably in a place with air flow and away from anything you value). This is because our cars use the same bulb filaments for TS and DRL, and that means current is almost always going through the resistor, making it hot. But since the hyper flash is essentially "seeing" the resistance in the entire flasher circuit, it really doesn't matter where in the circuit the extra current flows. As such, I put the load resistors on the rear turn signals. I still mounted them on a metal surface to be sure though.
This fixes the hyper flash and, in theory, the hot resistor problem. Since the only time the load resistor has current passing through it is when the bulb for the turn signal is on (which is not very much of the time) it does not get hot. I suppose technically it would warm up if one sat with the turn signal on for an extended period of time or had to have hazards on for a while. I was concerned that the resistor (providing what is essentially a current shunt) may make the rear signal look sickly, but it does not.
I've had the car like this for a while now and it works perfectly.
Has anyone else done it this way?
