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99 deville
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12 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have been living with a pretty good oil leak, no longer use our drive or anyone else's.
I believe that most of the leak is from the oil filter adapter.
What is the best way to remove the adapter there is not much room from the bottom side, can it be done from the top with the radiator out,should I get gaskets or is gray RTV best....
 

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Super Moderator
2010 DTS
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You need to remove it from the bottom. I don't even think you can see it from above. Probably will have a little better access if you remove the splash shield. No RTV. There are 2 O rings.
 

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99 deville
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Ranger I will attempt this in the near future just as soon as I get my honey do list under control.
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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71,006 Posts
Put the front of the car up on jackstands. Remove the splash shield. Using a drain pan, remove the oil filter. IF your car has an oil cooler there are 2 lines at the top front of the filter adapter, held into the hex fittings by spring clips - quick connects. The service manual recommends replacing those quick connect fittings because the internal O-ring sometimes 'takes a set" and can leak on reinstallation. Dealer parts, as are the adapter O-rings............ remove the 2 adapter bolts and off it comes. NO sealers. New oil filter, prefilled. (WIX51522)
 

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99 deville
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12 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the diagrams they were helpful. I still have a leak although not from the adapter I must have over streached the wires on the oil sending unit it now tells me I have no oil pressure. I also found the front motor mount was shot. The oil leak continues it is wet right below the valve cover that I plan to remove tomorrow, and replace the motor mount,and oil pressure switch and check the connector. Should I use rtv on the valve cover or spring for the valve cover set.
Thank
 

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Super Moderator
2010 DTS
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I'd use the proper cam cover gasket. Use too much RTV and it oozes out on the inside and makes its way to the oil pump. Next thing you know there is no oil pressure and you buy a new engine instead of a gasket.
 

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97 Deville, 08 Envoy, 88 Lx Stang (Gone But Never Forgotten)
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61 Posts
Hey Ranger...Can one replace the valve cover gaskets will motor still in car?? It seems like there is enough room but I just want to ask before i tackle this job and find out a major suprise in the mddle of the job...Thanks for the advice very knowledge guy!!!
 

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Super Moderator
2010 DTS
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The front cam cover is doable after you pull the water pump pulley off the intake cam. I don't think there is enough clearance in the rear to pull that one.
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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71,006 Posts
The front cam cover is relatively easy with some parts removal. The rear is an entirely different story - you have to loosen the engine cradle mounts and roll the engine forward along with other parts removal.

With tools and silicone gaskets in hand you're in for a 3-day backbreaker. No other way to put it.

Jake (97Eldocoupe) may have a workaround or two.

(Mornin', Ranger !!!!!!!)
 

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97 Deville, 08 Envoy, 88 Lx Stang (Gone But Never Forgotten)
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61 Posts
Yes front looks very easy I knew the back in would be RPITA!!!!!!! My plug tubes are showning signs of oil leakage...well i only looking at front i would imagine the rear would show the same thing...
 

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97 Deville, 08 Envoy, 88 Lx Stang (Gone But Never Forgotten)
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Also i have pick up thw the correct wording here...Cam Cover not Valve Cover
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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The plug wells are sealed by O-rings, and nearly every Northstar will show some signs of oil leakage. Unless the plug well is absolutely wet with oil, save yourself a ton of work..................

Cam cover/Valve cover - pretty interchangeable in this case - my use of the difference comes from a lot of pushrod engine work over the years. You'll also see me refer to the front engine cover on a Northstar as either "timing cover" or "chaincase/cover". Allee samee.
 

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97 Deville, 08 Envoy, 88 Lx Stang (Gone But Never Forgotten)
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61 Posts
The plug wells are sealed by O-rings, and nearly every Northstar will show some signs of oil leakage. Unless the plug well is absolutely wet with oil, save yourself a ton of work..................

Cam cover/Valve cover - pretty interchangeable in this case - my use of the difference comes from a lot of pushrod engine work over the years. You'll also see me refer to the front engine cover on a Northstar as either "timing cover" or "chaincase/cover". Allee samee.
Yeah I can see a pool of oil in the tube when i pull the wires...I think 3 of them i saw a pool of oil in them when i looked the other day. When I say pool I am not meaning half the tube or plug in in oil. I coul see a little poolat the base of the plug.. Dealer qoute me a price of $500 to remedy problem
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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If you're looking at 60,000 - 100,000 miles of oil seepage in a few spark plug wells, don't sweat it. Normal.

If you want to change the plugs/wires, pull the wiring and shoot a bit of carb&choke cleaner down in the well. Let it sit for 5 minutes, then blow the well dry with compressed air. (Cover things well ........) Then remove the plugs, engine COLD. Torque new plugs to 13 ft/lb.

Use the diagrams to replace the ACDelco #41-950 Platinum plugs and an AC wire set.
 

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Super Moderator
2010 DTS
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87,544 Posts
Consider the fact that it took 10 years to get that oil in there. Why not just pull the wires and clean it every 5 years.
 
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