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1993 Cadillac Deville
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44 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
This past weekend I did major car work. Changed the water tubing to my windshield wipers, bled my brakes, changed my passenger strut/shock, and put in new front and rear valve cover gaskets on my engine.

Why in the world is my transmission slipping?!

It barely moves when put into drive. So I have to put it in 1st, 2nd, 3rd gear to get it moving. My transmission fluid levels are fine.
I dont understand why this is happening. Also my speedometer is staying at zero. Could this have something to do with the problem?
I took it to AAMCO and was told that my transmission is stuck in 2nd or 3rd gear.

Just want to get a second view or word from you Cadillac Lovers.

Thank You
 

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98 eldo/KD54 w/N37,T96,QA1,D55,DS3,U1Z. U3R next
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2,125 Posts
If you're speedometer is staying at zero, it's probably not receiving a signal possibly from the speed sensor. Check to see if it's plugged in. Check to see if any wires/ harnesses are pinched anywhere possibly causing a short.

If possible pull the codes and see if it tells you anything. That'll give you an idea where to look.
 

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03 STS
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2,527 Posts
Limp mode is 2nd gear only. So car will feel sluggish to start and feel like it is barely moving. U say u can manually shift into 1, 2, or 3rd gear? I would start with VSS first.
 

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2001 DeVille
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411 Posts
First off you can relax a little bit, your transmission is not slipping. The computer controls the transmission also. Without a speed signal it defaults, or locks into a higher gear with the shifter in overdrive so that it can still be driven to safety. But starting off in 3rd sure takes a lot of torque converter slippage before it gets up to normal drive gear speeds. That's for aunt June to make it home but manually shifting is the best course of action to keep ATF temperatures down.

Your speedometer stuck on zero has everything to do with it as it needs the same speed sensor signal to operate as 98eldo32v stated. It is located on the pass side of the transmission output housing, this is the part the passenger axle shaft slides into. It is on top pointing straight up and has a heat shield covering it from the rear exhaust manifold heat directly above it. It has a two wire plug. Perhaps it got disconnected or shorted during the repairs as stated but that's where to look for the physical causes along with the codes that will surely point you into that direction. Keep in mind that if the circuit checks good the sensor could have just failed.

If you paid AAMCO any money to be told only that it's stuck in a higher gear then find another shop that can tell you what's wrong and how much they charge to fix it. If you're one of those guys that starts poking around the techs asking for free advice then you got your moneys worth as they told you the truth and without doing any diagnostics that's all they would know. If they offer free diagnostics along with higher than average repair bills you are only saving money at this point, go back and you'll pay dearly for the free diagnostics. I'm in the business and see it from all sides every day. I offer nothing and do little for free. But I do offer honest diagnostics and repairs at a fair price. I offer free advice on the net because I also use and benefit from it so I try to return the favor but I have to be careful how much or I would wastes days on end answering questions.

If you're trying to save money you should check the circuit as best you can (that means with a DVOM from one end to the other) and if that doesn't help replace the sensor. After that if it still doesn't work take it to a reputable garage as you're going to be money ahead letting a pro take over at that point. Don't be the guy who spends $600+ trying to fix a split vacuum hose because he can't stand to take it to a shop where they charge an hours labor and $4 to replace a vacuum hose and he considers that a rip off. That guy doesn't understand our business or his.

Good luck, the odds are with you on this one,
Vernon
 

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2010 DTS
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87,430 Posts
:welcome:

Pull the DTC's as suggested. See the DTC Sticky if you need help. Be sure to post the codes AND their definitions.
 

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1993 Coupe Deville, 2009 XLR-V 1 of 6 Crystal Red
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2,484 Posts
Check your fuses under the dash on passenger side, remove the hush panel to access.
 

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1985 Fleetwood 75
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345 Posts
If you changed the passenger strut is it possible that a CV joint hasa been pulled out and not put back correctly and the right side output of the transmission is actually spinning in reverse inside the transmission.
check out the CV joints. as the strut was removed the rotor could have dropped and pulled out the CV and now the transmission does not see the right wheel connecting to the transmission correctly.
I do not think speed sensor senses reverse speed.
Just a thought as work on right side and now problems.
 

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1991 devill
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116 Posts
odds are you nicked a wire doing the rear valve cover (or burnt one on manifold) and vertical speed sensor is not sending signal cus of that

but checking speed sensor on side of transmission (I believe its their) for being hooked up

also checking that fuse box under glove box

do you have a digital dash or regular?

and I agree with others you are on limp home mode for some reason(or whatever you wont to call it) and car wants to start in 2nd gear
 

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2002 Deville
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52 Posts
This past weekend I did major car work. Changed the water tubing to my windshield wipers, bled my brakes, changed my passenger strut/shock, and put in new front and rear valve cover gaskets on my engine.

Why in the world is my transmission slipping?!

It barely moves when put into drive. So I have to put it in 1st, 2nd, 3rd gear to get it moving. My transmission fluid levels are fine.
I dont understand why this is happening. Also my speedometer is staying at zero. Could this have something to do with the problem?
I took it to AAMCO and was told that my transmission is stuck in 2nd or 3rd gear.

Just want to get a second view or word from you Cadillac Lovers.

Thank You
You replaced ONE strut? I've never heard of someone not replacing them in pairs.
 

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1993 Cadillac Deville
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44 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Ok, so I did get the digital speedometer to work again. I had the wire to the VSS trap in between the rear valve cover lid and the engine. Once I got that out, it worked fine, but my car is still as you guys say in 'limp' mode, starting in second gear. Do you think I should knock in the CV into the the transmission to see if its all the way in?

I have checked ALL of my fuses and they seem to be all good. I just haven't checked the fuses that self reset.

Also now my air compressor and cruise control have stopped working. I saw that they are linked to the same fuse, but the fuse is still good. So what could be the problem? Have I knocked off the ground or fire somewhere? As of now I dont have Cruise control, my Air Compressor and the Car is still in Limp mode.

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Well, that one was squeaking really bad. so I just changed that one, but I usually do do it in pairs too.

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Not air compressor, I mean A/C
 

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03 STS
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Huh? 2nd gear starts OR 3rd gear starts? I thought limp mode for bad shift solenoids was 2nd gear only. But no VSS input will make the trans start in 3rd gear?
 

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70 Deville 77 Fleet 78 Seville 92 Deville 03 Deville
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3,310 Posts
Did you check all the large fuses under the passenger side hush panel? It has to be blown if the AC doesn't work too.
 

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1993 Cadillac Deville
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44 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
No, I did not check the large fuses. They are supposed to reset themselves I thought. How do you check the large fuses?
 

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98 DeVille, 97 DeVille d'Elegance
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7,345 Posts
There are some Fuses and some circuit breakers(they reset). Maxi fuses is what he's asking if you've checked.
 

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70 Deville 77 Fleet 78 Seville 92 Deville 03 Deville
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No, I did not check the large fuses. They are supposed to reset themselves I thought. How do you check the large fuses?
You check them just like the small ones. You will see the broken/burnt wire inside it. The owners manual tells you which is which. I think it's on the lower right side
 

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1993 Coupe Deville, 2009 XLR-V 1 of 6 Crystal Red
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2,484 Posts
No, I did not check the large fuses. They are supposed to reset themselves I thought. How do you check the large fuses?
You have fuses and you have RELAYS. If it resets, it is considered a circuit breaker. You don't have circuit breakers over there.
 

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1993 Cadillac Deville
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44 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I'd checked them all, but I will do it again. Is the cruise control also hooked to this fuse? That also doesn't work anymore either.
 

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2001 DeVille
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411 Posts
When you check them again will you please check the circuit with a voltmeter or test light with the key on. I couldn't care less at this point if "the fuse is good". I believe you; but that doesn't mean to me over here that there's power going to and through it. I've spent about 30 minutes of time researching your problem and the only thing that make sense so far is that there is not voltage in the entire circuit. In my years I've seen fuses that looked perfect that were not and switches and relays that burnt out about the same time the fuse did. Like I said in your other post, those two metal spots on top of a fuse, on each side of the amp rating number, are for checking the power on each side of the fuse.

Vernon
 
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