Air ride
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It has air assisted rear shocks, not air ride or air bags.
You could probably put a manual override switch on the rear shock air compressor, but that will just raise the rear end (slowly), b ut I don't think that is what you're looking for. Remember, this is a leveling system meant to level the car with a load in the trunk.
You could probably put a manual override switch on the rear shock air compressor, but that will just raise the rear end (slowly), b ut I don't think that is what you're looking for. Remember, this is a leveling system meant to level the car with a load in the trunk.
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Okay so what do you think would be the best route to give it a nice drop?
The car does NOT have any form of "air ride". Most of these use Electronic Level Control (ELC) to compensate for extra weight in the trunk or rear seat - that maintains correct wheel alignment for ride and handling.
Leave it stock and don't mess with the rear auto-level system unless it's broken/inoperative.
Leave it stock and don't mess with the rear auto-level system unless it's broken/inoperative.
No clue. Disabling the ELC compressor and bleeding the air out of the rear shocks will probably lower the rear end slightly. If you want more, you'll have to put weight in the trunk, but that will do nothing for the front, if that's what you are looking for.
2003 DHS - two-2002 DHS, 2003 SLS, 1995 Sedan DeVille, 1989 Coupe DeVille
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22,639 Posts
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for the rear - disable the ELC system and fill the trunk with 1000LBS of bricks -
no idea how to lower the front -
I guess if you knew what to do and how, you'd be doing it.
So,,,it makes for a dangerous, touchy, less than safe/reliable situation.
Know what I mean?
Old school: measure/go find shorter coil [email protected]. More than a few visits. Best to understand spring rates and what 'might' fit.
Saws/torch/tools/fabrication skills needed. Plan on alignment issues. Plan on time searching out shock swaps, lengths,,,alot of crap needs to happen to be safe, quiet, good quality work. Re-position the shock mounts if you want to keep 'stock' type lift or a manual lift/air shock type system.
Old school on the cheap: Cut the stock springs. Deal with everything above minus the spring search. Best to have a good/new set BEFORE the hacking starts, just in case it all turns to shit. Which happens. Often.
Getting it right is not a beginners endeavor. AT ALL.
The front? probably 2-10x as much trouble/effort. Expect driveline/tranny issues.
Someone has done it, do a search. It'll be fun to drive around in a parking lot or parade. $1000-$2000 if you do some work.
This ain't anything like dropping a '63 Impala or a 1/2ton truck
GoodLuck.
So,,,it makes for a dangerous, touchy, less than safe/reliable situation.
Know what I mean?
Old school: measure/go find shorter coil [email protected]. More than a few visits. Best to understand spring rates and what 'might' fit.
Saws/torch/tools/fabrication skills needed. Plan on alignment issues. Plan on time searching out shock swaps, lengths,,,alot of crap needs to happen to be safe, quiet, good quality work. Re-position the shock mounts if you want to keep 'stock' type lift or a manual lift/air shock type system.
Old school on the cheap: Cut the stock springs. Deal with everything above minus the spring search. Best to have a good/new set BEFORE the hacking starts, just in case it all turns to shit. Which happens. Often.
Getting it right is not a beginners endeavor. AT ALL.
The front? probably 2-10x as much trouble/effort. Expect driveline/tranny issues.
Someone has done it, do a search. It'll be fun to drive around in a parking lot or parade. $1000-$2000 if you do some work.
This ain't anything like dropping a '63 Impala or a 1/2ton truck
GoodLuck.
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