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1992 Sedan Deville
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So I have a 92 cadillac deville that's still r12. The last charge held for a long time maybe a year or so. I am having a hard time seeing if there is a major leak I can locate. However, when I try to charge the r12 I jump the compressor and the compressor runs. Either it doesnt suck the freon in or it sucks air in from somewhere else and results in the pressure being too high to suck in any more freon. Long story short is that the freon in the cans is not getting sucked in. A couple questions. Is it possible for a compressor to run but not be working? I could have fried it by running it dry for so long. I have a long ride coming up and would love to have ac for the ride home. Anybody have any ideas on how I should proceed? It even seems as though that it's sucking in air from somewhere else because the pressure gets high enough to run the compressor without a jumper wire. But the compressor still sounds like it is running dry and then the freon can is still full. There is pressure in the hose from the can to the low pressure line
 

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92 Fleetwood 2dr cpe - FWD, 96 Seville SLS, 02 Seville
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You need a full gauge set to see what starting pressures are and what effect the compressor has.

If there is pressure and the compressor makes no to little change in pressures (before switch shut off), then the compressor is toast.

If there is no pressure, then the compressor may pull the air in the system at the same time as pulling Freon. A full gauge set has a sight glass that would show if Freon is flowing.

Modern, 12oz Freon cans have a stop gap valve that needs a special adapter to work. I doubt it applies to the old r12 cans you might have laying around, but who knows. . .
 

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2010 DTS
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So I have a 92 cadillac deville that's still r12. The last charge held for a long time maybe a year or so.
A year is not a long time


However, when I try to charge the r12 I jump the compressor and the compressor runs.
When the system is low on refrigerant, the compressor gets disabled to protect it. No need to jump it. Just clear the low refrigerant DTC to enable it just before recharging it.


Either it doesnt suck the freon in or it sucks air in from somewhere else and results in the pressure being too high to suck in any more freon.
What are your high and low side pressures?


Long story short is that the freon in the cans is not getting sucked in.
You can warm the refrigerant can in hot water so the compressor can draw the refrigerant as a gas or turn it upside down and let it draw as a liquid.


A couple questions. Is it possible for a compressor to run but not be working?
It is possible, but only pressure readings will tell.


I could have fried it by running it dry for so long.
Not likely. As I said, it has a fail safe shut down to prevent just such a thing.


You are probably going to need an A/C shop with a "sniffer" to locate the leak or add a dye along with the recharge.
 
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