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So I have an '03 CTS with DVD NAV(I added with help from this site), NON-BOSE, just added Infinity Components in the front and Coaxials in the back. The speakers sound great, but not clear enough or loud enough for my deafened ear. I want to add an amp, and have an Infinity 4 channel just waiting for me to have the time. I know I will need 2 Pac converters, but how and where do I install them? I have installed over 20 systems in various cars, so I have some knowledge, but havent looked at this car yet and due to the fact its my most expensive car, I dont want to break anything. Any help on the install of this amp would be greatly appreciated!!:thumbsup:

Thanks guys,

Mike
 

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I just installed a sub and amp and didn't use any "Pac's". Did I do something wrong? Everything works, but could I have better sound if I used one?
 

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A Pac is a converter that takes the signal and makes a speaker wire connection, or high level input, and makes it a low lever or RCA type connection. This is for adding amps, but some amps have a High level input on them where you can splice off the existing speakers to get a signal and send it to the amp to power for subs. The PAC can be used for the subs too, but I need to use it to add my interior speakers. How did you hook it up? How does it sound? Usually, the low level inputs sound the best coming off the amp versus coming off the speakers where you can pick up intereference and road noise. Do you have good clean bass? Are you happy?

Mike
 

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johnnybn said:
I just installed a sub and amp and didn't use any "Pac's". Did I do something wrong? Everything works, but could I have better sound if I used one?
What did you use for a remote turn-on lead?
 

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If your amplifier has speaker level inputs, you can tap into the 4 channels coming from the factory amp. The amp is located behind the driver side trunk liner. Just splice the correct wires and power the amp.

However, I recommend you use some kind of LOC. Most of the speaker level inputs on amps are low quality (even my Alpine amp is crappy using this input method). By using LOC's you will improve sound quality because it passes a stronger and cleaner signal to the amps.

The LOC's (you need two for the speakers, three if you are amping the sub too) will get spliced into the speaker level outs from the factory amp. RCA out from the LOC's go into the amp.

PAC's are essentially LOC's that work with the databus and are easier to install.

For a remote turn on lead, you can use any ignition switched 12v circuit. I tapped into the climate control panel circuit (CCP) from the driver side fuse box under the rear seat. This will cut power to the amps when the key is not in the run position.

An alternative would be to build a 6V relay circuit and tap into the purple databus line going into the factory amp. The databus line is on when the key is in the ACC or RUN position. It turns off about 10 minutes after the key is removed. The line will also turn on when you open, lock, or unlock the doors.
 

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I used a line-converter to take the signal directly from the stock Bose sub (I disconnected it) into the amp's low level inputs. That way, it has already gone through the stock crossover and fades correctly just as the Bose sub did. I used the B11 Pin (Lt. Green wire) from the stock amp as a remote and tapped into the ground on the stock amp's left. Sounds great! The base is tight, and far stronger than the stock sub. I put in a 12" P5 and a mono-channel Sony amp.
 

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johnnybn said:
I used a line-converter to take the signal directly from the stock Bose sub (I disconnected it) into the amp's low level inputs. That way, it has already gone through the stock crossover and fades correctly just as the Bose sub did. I used the B11 Pin (Lt. Green wire) from the stock amp as a remote and tapped into the ground on the stock amp's left. Sounds great! The base is tight, and far stronger than the stock sub. I put in a 12" P5 and a mono-channel Sony amp.
You are lucky that you have the Bose amp. It looks like the sub signal stays constant even if the amp doesn't detect the proper impedence. I have the non-bose so the amp turns off the sub out if I don't have a subwoofer connected directly to it. I had to resort to tapping off one of the low passed speaker signals instead.

Looking at the connector specs, it looks like B11 on the U57 amp is the Right Low Level Audio Signal (+) coming from the head unit. That's very strange (and fortunate) that your amp is able to be turned on by such a low voltage.
 

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Right... it's only about a 5.5v wire. Must just be my car's overall super-strength ;). The only thing I'm not so sure about is it's effectiveness as a remote wire. The power signal it sends seems to coincide with some strange things, like opening a door or turning on the interior lights. It also holds a signal for about 3-4 minutes after shutting the door and locking the car, but then the amp shuts off. I'm searching for a better solution, but can't think of anything else. Any recommendations?
 

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Hey now I remember who you are. I LOVED your in-car computer install! That is so slick... I have to use my laptop for work while in the car (for GPS) and it just sits on my passenger seat. It would be awesome to have an in-dash cpu...

Anyways, while I was looking at the connector specs I saw that there are two cellular-telephone wires. Are either of these input wires? If they were I had two thoughts for these....

I wasn't planning on buying the radios-and-more iPod kit because from what it sounds like, they're having trouble supporting the new video iPod. Would I be able to tap into one of these inputs with my iPod (using appropriate connectors of course) and play my ipod through the stereo by pressing the "phone" button on the steering wheel? I realize I would have to control the music from the ipod, but I don't really care about that.

My other thought (if one of these wires was an input) would be to utilize some sort of in-car bluetooth system like the Motorola. I could use the input to play the convo through the stereo system and set up a mic by the driver's side visor.

Any comments? Thanks!
 

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there is already a mic installed in the overhead panel(i.e. where the sunroof controls are if you have one). it is for the on-star feature, and im sure that you wuld be alble to use that as your mic or at least get another one from gm to hook into your phone input. that is what those little vent looking things are for up there. it is actually where the mic is.
 

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not real sure, i just noticed it when i was accessing power for my radar detector. it might also need to be powered to work. I would check with gm on what it would cost just ot get a new one and just add it in to the other little vent thingy. then you uwouldn't have to tap in at all. there would be one dedicated to whatever you want to use it for.
 

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d-dash said:
I gues maybe they changed it between my 03 and your 05
CTS's with Bose systems have two mics. Base CTS's have one. The mic below the mirror is for OnStar. The mic in the overhead console, if equipped, is for the noise compensation feature of the Bose system.
 
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