Hi all. The air conditioning isn't doing the job on my '13 ATS 2.5. I'm thinking that adding a can of Freon might solve the problem. Where is the fitting located where the can attaches? Any other tips will be greatly appreciated...Thanks!
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BEWARE OF SCAMMERS. Anyone trying to get your money should be checked out BEFORE you send anything anywhere.
rockinstephen
There is a nice little how to video that I will link you to: https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/...o/2013_Cadillac_ATS_Performance_3.6L_V6_FlexFuel/air_conditioner/recharge_freon
Which is colder, when the system is closer to the right or left thin red line etched in the glass?
With modern systems it is very unusual for the system to be low without a leak. Modern refrigerant replacements for the old (and very effective) Freon 12 don't create as much damage when released but more importantly have a composition that doesn't permeate and leak through connecting hoses like Freon 12 so if it is low there is probably a leak. Be very careful not to overfill because the RC-134A system performance drops off quickly with an overfill AND if there was a system leak you still need the right mix of lubricant in the system. It is very easy to damage the compressor so proceed with caution.
Other possible reasons for poor performance are the heater core control valve isn't shutting off causing hot air to compete with cold in the blend box or the compressor may not be cycling because of a faulty low temperature safety switch. Compressors can't compress liquid and although RC-134A (and its even newer 1234Y replacement used in newer vehicles) remain at vapor at lower temperature than Freon 12 there is still a safety sensor that prevent compressor clutch activation when the temperature is too low. If the high pressure sensor/switch is faulty then the compressor won't be cycling long enough to cool properly. And the electric fan behind the radiator should be running (and the air control shutters behind the grill should be open) to provide sufficient airflow over the condenser portion of the system or compressor head pressure will quickly go to the shutoff point causing lack of cooling. The AC system is a heat transfer process taking heat from the passenger cabin and dumping it into the cooling air stream that goes through the front stack so any blockage of air here will quickly compromise cooling system performance. Insufficient airflow through the evaporator (i.e. debris buildup in the box) will result in insufficient airflow over the evaporator causing ice over the coils further blocking cabin cooling air which will try to bypass the evaporator coil and cause the compressor to cycle off.
There are a lot of reasons for lack of sufficient AC capacity so make sure you have an actual refrigerant charge issue before adding more.
I do a lot of my own car maintenance (and repair) when out of warranty but for a suspected issue with the sealed refrigerant portion of the system I would go with an independent shop who can properly measure the high and low side pressure with a good set of gauges, locate a leak if there is one, pump the system down to remove impurities after fixing the leak, replacing the dryer, and then refill the system with the proper amount of RC-134A/compressor oil mix. If this was a "beater" car to get you through a couple of years of college then doing periodic transfusions to keep a crippled AC system running would be reasonable but I wouldn't do it with a newer car in good shape. Modern systems don't run low on refrigerant in 4 or 5 years. My 2006 pickup has never needed refrigerant added nor has its 2001 predecessor which is owned by a friend and still going strong with close to 200K now.
Other possible reasons for poor performance are the heater core control valve isn't shutting off causing hot air to compete with cold in the blend box or the compressor may not be cycling because of a faulty low temperature safety switch. Compressors can't compress liquid and although RC-134A (and its even newer 1234Y replacement used in newer vehicles) remain at vapor at lower temperature than Freon 12 there is still a safety sensor that prevent compressor clutch activation when the temperature is too low. If the high pressure sensor/switch is faulty then the compressor won't be cycling long enough to cool properly. And the electric fan behind the radiator should be running (and the air control shutters behind the grill should be open) to provide sufficient airflow over the condenser portion of the system or compressor head pressure will quickly go to the shutoff point causing lack of cooling. The AC system is a heat transfer process taking heat from the passenger cabin and dumping it into the cooling air stream that goes through the front stack so any blockage of air here will quickly compromise cooling system performance. Insufficient airflow through the evaporator (i.e. debris buildup in the box) will result in insufficient airflow over the evaporator causing ice over the coils further blocking cabin cooling air which will try to bypass the evaporator coil and cause the compressor to cycle off.
There are a lot of reasons for lack of sufficient AC capacity so make sure you have an actual refrigerant charge issue before adding more.
I do a lot of my own car maintenance (and repair) when out of warranty but for a suspected issue with the sealed refrigerant portion of the system I would go with an independent shop who can properly measure the high and low side pressure with a good set of gauges, locate a leak if there is one, pump the system down to remove impurities after fixing the leak, replacing the dryer, and then refill the system with the proper amount of RC-134A/compressor oil mix. If this was a "beater" car to get you through a couple of years of college then doing periodic transfusions to keep a crippled AC system running would be reasonable but I wouldn't do it with a newer car in good shape. Modern systems don't run low on refrigerant in 4 or 5 years. My 2006 pickup has never needed refrigerant added nor has its 2001 predecessor which is owned by a friend and still going strong with close to 200K now.
The problem is finding the leaks. I have to recharge our van about every 2 or 3 years. The shops never seem to be able to find anything.
Guess what? This was my mistake...duh...As you know, the CUE system can be difficult to master at first. I've only had my car for less than 4 weeks. The AC was turned off, even though I had the temperature settings on low! It's nice and cold now. Live and learn...I not only learned more about CUE, but thanks to your replies, I learned more about auto AC. Thanks again, Stephen...
Stephen,
Glad it wasn't a system failure! Enjoy your new ATS and its air conditioning... Or come visit central IL where it is 15 degrees and you won't need it
I just received my new Canon EOS 1DX Mark 2 camera and it would be great to have some better weather to go outside to experiment but with snow showers, 30 MPH north wind, and very cold temperatures I am staying inside.
Glad it wasn't a system failure! Enjoy your new ATS and its air conditioning... Or come visit central IL where it is 15 degrees and you won't need it
I just received my new Canon EOS 1DX Mark 2 camera and it would be great to have some better weather to go outside to experiment but with snow showers, 30 MPH north wind, and very cold temperatures I am staying inside.I can not see any other solutions, so you made the right decision. I don't know whether you had air conditioners before or not, but these devices require maintenance and washing works. For example, I did not know, as nobody told me about this, and when my aircon was damaged, I did not know what to do. It didn't work for a few weeks, but thankfully I stumbled on a company site that provides cheap aircon servicing in Singapore and they helped me fix the problem. I don't want to make advertising, but they provide the best aircon chemical wash, so in case you have some issues with your aircon, you can also contact them.
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