[ej2000n]

I just recieved this message on my 97 STS. I have a couple of cans of freon in the garage. Can i recharge the system myself like I would any other car or is there something specific I need to do before attempting to do this, All help is gladly appreciated

 

[cl1986]

the only thing different is to clear the code so that the compressor can turn back on agian. Put the refrigerant in before 5 minutes or so or the compressor will turn back off and reset the code.

Other than that, just like any other car.

 

[ej2000n]

Thanks alot by the way how do I reset the code

 

[Ranger]

Enter the onboard diagnostics and clear the codes or pull battery power.

 

[mcowden]

I just recieved this message on my 97 STS. I have a couple of cans of freon in the garage. Can i recharge the system myself like I would any other car or is there something specific I need to do before attempting to do this, All help is gladly appreciated

I assume by "freon," you mean R-134a refrigerant, not R-12. You can't put R-12 in these systems or things will go VERY wrong...

You might want to pick up a cheapie gauge - it is possible to overfill the system and then when the compressor kicks in it will stall the engine, spin the belt, or tear up the clutch. Properly using the gauge can be a lengthy topic, but basically just check it when the engine is cold. Most cheap gauges have markings for correct pressures. Keep in mind, of course, that the refrigerant is low for a reason, and a refill might not last long if an O-ring is failing or the front seal on the compressor is toast, etc. A dye test can show you where it's leaking so you can get that fixed.

Let us know if you have other questions and how it turns out for you.

 

[Ranger]

FWIW, I have been told by people much more knowledgable that I in A/C that those cheap (low side only) guages are useless. That is why I bought a good set of A/C guages.

 

[Eldyfig]

Like others have said, you need a gauge and you only want to add r134a with the compressor running, a/c on high. Once you get the codes cleared and the car and a/c on, don't waste any time doing the refill. If not, it will not take long before the compressor kicks back off. If the compressor isn't on when you attempt to refill, the pressure will fill quickly. It will be inaccurate though because it isn't disbursed through the system.

 

[cl1986]

Ya, most people dont have r-12 sitting around in their garage, and they dont come in 12 oz cans, they would be more like a gallon bottle.

If you follow the instructions on the refill or retrofit kit you will be fine. Since you are only low and not empty, just leave the can right side up as stated in instructions. Ive done this many times and also had the pressure verified later and all was fine. Leaving the can right side up only allows just enough refrigerant to pass into the system. Putting the can upside down like when you are doing a complete refill will put the entire can in the system.

To get to the codes you hold off an warmer, and when PCM? is displayed use your fan hi an lo buttons to scroll through, you may have codes in different categories to clear, such as IPC, RSS, and so on, just clearing one category only does that category.

The A/C code will be a APC code such as AO46, AO47, or AO48

 

[91TexasSeville]

Once the code is cleared from the DIC, I normally jump the low pressure switch (actually not the switch, but the connector) to keep the compressor on. Anybody else do this?

 

[Eldyfig]

I have heard of this, but have never done it.

 

[Ranger]

I just get everything hooked up and ready to go so that when I clear the code and turn on the A/C it starts pulling freon immediately.

 

[WarrenJ]

I just get everything hooked up and ready to go so that when I clear the code and turn on the A/C it starts pulling freon immediately.

Yup, that worked flawlessly for me also.

Interestingly, I purchased two cans in preparation for that monumental event. After I was done, I really didn't notice any great difference between the weight of the used can as opposed to the unused can. I'd guess it didn't take much to get the A/C going. A few ounces at best.

A word of CAUTION however: disconnect the can before you stop the engine. With the A/C compressor off, dangerous pressure may be applied to the refill can. I know of no one injured by this, but it's always best to err on the side of caution.

Regards,
Warren

 

[ej2000n]

Thanks for the info everyone it got dark on me today but I plan to do the refill in the morning and I'll let you know how eveything turned out thanks again this site has been alot of help.

 

[ej2000n]

Well I did the recharge but I think I have a leak I could hear a hissing sound once I cut the engine. I used one of those recharge kits from the store which was a large can that equaled 2 smaller cans. I only used half at first because the guage showed that the system was full. After I heard the sound i hooked it up again and it took the rest of the can. The refrigirant had dye in it but I could see none on the hose assembly or the compressor. Its funny though I didn't have any of these problems before I had my coolant tank replaced at the dealer. Any suggestions are gladly appreciated.

 

[mcowden]

Well I did the recharge but I think I have a leak I could hear a hissing sound once I cut the engine. I used one of those recharge kits from the store which was a large can that equaled 2 smaller cans. I only used half at first because the guage showed that the system was full. After I heard the sound i hooked it up again and it took the rest of the can. The refrigirant had dye in it but I could see none on the hose assembly or the compressor. Its funny though I didn't have any of these problems before I had my coolant tank replaced at the dealer. Any suggestions are gladly appreciated.

The dye is typically visible with a UV light source such as a black light. It shines bright yellow or green. Sometimes it's visible to the naked eye as a yellow or greenish goo, but it's much easier to see with a black light.

You might see if you can narrow down the source of the hissing. It would help a lot with diagnosis and repair if a black light or UV light source is not available. I have seen and heard of many AC compressors failing at the front clutch seal. My own did that, and so did my dad's and my uncle's, and one on an Eldo that my dad sold. If you can take off the plastic shield behind the passenger-side front wheel, you can more easily see the front of the compressor. If it looks wet or oily behind the front clutch plate, the front seal is probably bad and leaking. As far as I know, the whole compressor has to be replaced at that point, but maybe someone else knows something I don't know. If they were messing with your coolant pressure tank, check the joints at the accumulator/dryer for oiliness. That's a good sign of leakage without using a light. My guess is that front seal. If you can hear it hissing, and that's not just the sound of the pressure equalizing after the compressor shuts off, the leak is probably such that it won't hold refrigerant for very long. It would be good to get the problem fixed soon - the A/C can be very helpful in defrosting windows during cool weather. I don't think it will run below 32 degrees, but I could be wrong about that.

Let us know what you find and if you have any questions.

 

[Ranger]

First off, those single side guages are relatively useless. As Mcowden said, there will be some "hissing" when you shut down as the system equilizes. If the leak was so bad as to hiss, then it is major leak and you should see some oil near the leak. Also, it will have completely discharged very quickly so the next time you start it and turn on the A/C, you should have absolutely no cooling what so ever.

 

[ej2000n]

Thanks for the info guys. I've been driving the car all day and the AC is blowing cold so maybe it is the system equalizing. There was some moisture around the high pressure line but no dye so it might habe been condensation. Oh well I'll see how it works for the reso of the week. By the way exactly where is the camshaft positon sensor located i got a code for that the other day and the car has been hesitating and feels like it lost a little bit of power. Is this major ?

 

[WarrenJ]

ej2000n,

In your user profile under "Ownership:" you might want to record the year and model of your car. It will then appear right under your name in every post. Sounds silly, I know, but it makes it easier for others to respond to you without searching through an entire thread to determine just what you are driving.

Not a criticism, just a suggestion. :canttalk:

Regards,
Warren

 

[ej2000n]

thanks I'm correcting that now. I have a 1997 STS any input on the problem

 

[DutchJ&M]

We had the same problem after that the complete system was checked and renewed by a caddy dealership (costs for this first attempt were $2500,=)

So back to the dealer....they had to renew some other stuff...and another bill of $500,=
Thanks for everything, NOT :thepan:

That will be the last thing this new Kroymansdealer :brutal: will ever do to our car