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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, my worst nightmare has come true.

I drove my car down to my shop with the engine overheating. Every other system was working 100%, just overheating engine.

After diagnosing a small crack in the head as well as head gasket failure I decided since the engine had the oil leak to go ahead and have the engine rebuilt, as the cost of the heads being fixed were nearing that very same expense in labor.

Now, after the engine is back, rebuilt, running (well!), every system on the car is lit up like a christmas tree. The ABS (orange) light is on the dash, Traction Control Off and Service Ride Control messages scrolling along the bottom. These were all 100% before dropping off.

It is now at the Caddy dealership after the mechanic has checked things for grounded wires, missing parts, etc.

The Caddy dealership wants to sell an $1100 ABS unit upon initial inspection. My gut and experience tell me that I dropped this car off with everything working and the chances of the ABS failing while the engine was out are slim/none. I do know that all the systems that are lit up are intertwined so whatever is causing the problem will probably remedy the rest of the issues.

Should I just let the dealership put the ABS unit on? I was given the option for them to "look into it further" as if they weren't 100% sure of their analysis.

Before all of this, I was in the green money wise, easily able to handle the engine R&R but I'm quickly run to redline here. I have a good relationship with the owner of the shop but this problem that has "suddenly come on" apparently is going to be left at my feet.

His idea on why it might be my fault that the ABS unit failed AFTER I dropped it off was engine heat under the hood from the engine overheating destroying it.

HELP. I do not think this is my fault, but I am also not the type to shrik responsibility when it is squarely mine.

Adam
 

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94 ETC,97 STS
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Re: ABS Question/New Engine (Also Posted at CaddyInfo.com)

Unless the mechanic did something to damage the ABS it doesn't make any sense. He didn't need to open the brake circuit (hydraulic) up.

I think they are missing a ground. I had a loose ground that drove me nuts. It took awhile with the wiring diagrams to figure out where it was. Has your mechanic taken the Alldata or factory manual wiring diags and checked for every ground? I don't mean looking at grounds...I mean taking the book and checking where every one was ( or should be).

It really is his responsibility to fix this and I'd bet a bunch of money he has the wiring messed up.
 

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Re: ABS Question/New Engine (Also Posted at CaddyInfo.com)

chevyorange said:
Now, after the engine is back, rebuilt, running (well!), every system on the car is lit up like a christmas tree. The ABS (orange) light is on the dash, Traction Control Off and Service Ride Control messages scrolling along the bottom. These were all 100% before dropping off.
It certainly doesn't sound like it would be your fault, but what are the codes? Check here if you have never checked codes before:

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53635
 

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Re: ABS Question/New Engine (Also Posted at CaddyInfo.com)

My problem was a loose ground. It was a pain but I found several circuits traced back to one ground. I did not find it by inspecting grounds. Once I knew which ground and checked it, I found it was loose.

The other possibility is a pinched wiring harness. That could be even harder to find if it's not pinched now.
 

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Re: ABS Question/New Engine (Also Posted at CaddyInfo.com)

While there are some mechanics that are good with electrical problems they are the exception. Do you have any friends with electrical diagnostic skills?
 

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Re: ABS Question/New Engine (Also Posted at CaddyInfo.com)

Do you have a voltmeter? You can get a cheap one at Harbor Freight. On the fuse panel you can check the voltages very easily. Run down all the circuits (you can touch the metal connector next to each fuse) and see if some give you strange voltages. 5 or 6 for example. That's usually a sign of a bad ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Update

Well, they finally took it to a Cadillac dealer after checking every damn wire (I trust them) - and they said I needed a new EBTCS (ABS/Trac Control) computer. Found one for $600 or so at GM Parts Direct and put it in.

Still the same problem.

The Saga of the Worst Purchase of My Life goes on..... I"m going to have to keep this car the rest of my life to get my moneys worth.....

:bomb:
 

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Re: ABS Question/New Engine (Also Posted at CaddyInfo.com)

Why did you get the EBTCS is your gut said it wasnt going to fix anything? That old unit was probably running perfectly fine. I hate to say it, but it cmay even be the PCM. The problem is theres just too many electronics in the northstar. And especially in 94 when they were practically "beta" tested with the purchasers as guinea pigs. I really hesitated before buying my 95.

I drive without ABS/TC anyway (both mine are out). They come on intermittant, say maybe once in every 2 or 3 warm starts. I dont care though. Im buying $1000 wheels before an ABS unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Re: ABS Question/New Engine (Also Posted at CaddyInfo.com)

No, the Cadillac dealership used their who knows how many thousand dollar scanner that said it was out....

My gut told me otherwise since everything worked fine before the engine swap and the stuff in the trunk wasn't changed.
 

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Re: ABS Question/New Engine (Also Posted at CaddyInfo.com)

Chevyorange...did you try the check I suggested?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Re: ABS Question/New Engine (Also Posted at CaddyInfo.com)

Zone, I haven't but my mechanic did - it is being redobuled now.

I am disabled and couldn't pull off that stuff myself - I used to be before my accident but a coked-up semi driver took care most of my physical abilities but good in '98....

I DO appreciate the tip though!!!
 

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Re: ABS Question/New Engine (Also Posted at CaddyInfo.com)

The fuses are on the fenderwell. Once the plastic cover is off they are very easy to access.
 

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61 ragtop,2 67 eldos,68 ragtop,68CDV,93 ETC
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Re: ABS Question/New Engine (Also Posted at CaddyInfo.com)

From the look of it, the system is powered by 3 fuses. A 50 amp maxifuse #5 in the underhood fuse block,a 10 amp fuse #A1 in the trunk, and a 20 amp fuse #B3 in the underhood fuse block. There are 2 grounds ,one grounds the A/C clutch and right hand cooling fan as well as the brake pressure modulator. Interesting to note that if that ground was bad, the cooling fan might not work leading to overheating? The second ground also grounds the lighting system and if that one was bad you would have no lights or very dim ones. I have seen bad connections at the underhood fuseblock cause low voltage and low voltage at the brake control module will cause the symptoms you describe. I'd have your mechanic check the connector that the fuse pushes into for corrosion and looseness. If the engine change mechanic took the underhood harness apart at the firewall connector a pin might have gotten bent when it was put back together. It's a long shot but possible.I'm really sorry to hear about your problem because when a caddy is running right,it's a beautiful machine. I hope yours becomes beautiful again!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Re: ABS Question/New Engine (Also Posted at CaddyInfo.com)

Well, here's the new info:

My mechanic took it back to the Caddy dealership steaming because they told him it was the computer and that was not the case - so he made the Cadillac dealership eat the cost of the computer! (It was non-returnable).

Turns out it is the mechanical pump is the story. And they are $900 at GMPartsdirect.com - but we think we know a company here in Seattle that will rebuild it. Should save me quite a bit of money.

When the car is back, it will be beautiful again. I just can't handle all the major system lights flashing errors while driving... I'm glad I made them fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Re: ABS Question/New Engine (Also Posted at CaddyInfo.com)

Well,

After ALL this time... nothing has worked. The mechanical pump is replaced and STILL the lights are on. So, I got my money back for the EBTCM, have a new ABS pump, all sensors have been checked and still get ABS light, traction control light.

I'm paying him for the labor and taking the car back tonight. He just doesn't know what he is doing. I have an appointment at the stealership on Monday and have offically taken this over. I really wanted him to finish the job but he has lost all respect in my mind.

Quick question: could an old battery that barely has charge cause trouble codes? Secondly, he said early on that my left front wheel hub needed to be replaced - if he put a bad hub in could that be causing my ABS problem?

My gut tells me that this is one little thing causing the ABS system to not work, and when the ABS isn't working then the traction control light doesn't work, right?

Again, I'm a disabled guy and cannot make threats or do too much visual on my car, I can barely walk (use a cane - have a lower back injury).

Tonight, I myself will read the codes and post back as I have until Monday before my appointment at the dealership and maybe I'll get lucky and make something happen myself.

Thanks for letting me vent. I love my car but am so embittered by this.
 

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Re: ABS Question/New Engine (Also Posted at CaddyInfo.com)

A weak battery can wreak havoc with the electrical system. I would not be surprised to see it set false codes.

The wheel speed sensor is integral to the hub assembly, so yes a bad hub will cause the ABS to be inop and that will disable the T/C.
 

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Re: ABS Question/New Engine (Also Posted at CaddyInfo.com)

A bad battery will throw random codes in random amounts. If there are codes that don't make sense clear them and start over.

The sensors/computer get confused with low voltage.
 

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96STS engine only!! only thing left from my 96 after divorce
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Re: ABS Question/New Engine (Also Posted at CaddyInfo.com)

hey dont feel too bad my 96 sts is doing the same thing after i swapped in a new motor, i just havent had the time to figure it out yet, dam 2nd gear starts suck too!!!
 

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Re: ABS Question/New Engine (Also Posted at CaddyInfo.com)

only thing is the abs/tc is NOT releated to the service ride control, they are on completly different circuits.

i dont even have my abs/tc pump plugged and i dont have any rss codes, i fixed them myself. your mechanic screwed up something real good 4 u.

have u checked the fuses yet? and y did u take the car back if it is not correct? i would return the car to the mechanic and if he doesnt fix it right then sue him...
 
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