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2006 CTS w/ Luxury PKG
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Discussion Starter #1
It has about 41,000 miles.

I have my own checklist made up in my head of what to test out before I take delivery, but i'm sure i'm missing something and would love your input.

Are there any specific problems I should make sure was taken care of for the 06 model?

Any other tips / advice for me before I drive off with it?

Thank you.
 

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Sedan de Ville, CTS
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Oil pan gasket leak. They generally begin somewhere between 50k and 100k. Only about $1800 to repair, from what I hear.
 

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2006 CTS w/ Luxury PKG
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Discussion Starter #3
Oil pan gasket leak. They generally begin somewhere between 50k and 100k. Only about $1800 to repair, from what I hear.
Thanks for the response z06bigbird.

At the risk of sounding dumb, is there a way to check for this without putting it on a lift?

Also, i'm going to be getting GMPP so it should be covered right? :)
 

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Thanks for the response z06bigbird.

At the risk of sounding dumb, is there a way to check for this without putting it on a lift?

Also, i'm going to be getting GMPP so it should be covered right? :)
Big mistake on my part. That oil pan problem is on the DTS, not the CTS. One thing you can check on the CTS is the rear end. Put car in reverse and back up slowly turning front wheels to far left as you back up. Do same turning front wheels to far right. If you hear any chatter, someone has been abusing the car.

GMPP will cover the oil pan gasket on the DTS. If the rear end is noisy, GMPP should cover it, with one qualification. In today's market, manufacturer and third party warranties like to wait until there is actual breakage of a part or parts. Companies are trying to save money. Some third party warranties specifically cover only actual breakage of parts. Other third party warranties specify that they will cover wear and tear items, as they describe the situations.

GMPP is not a third party warranty, and it is an excellent warranty. My recommendation is that you visit with your local service mgr at the Caddy dealer where you plan to service the car. Ask him/her that prior to purchase.

CTS is one fine car, esp with the 3.6 engines. By the way, do a search here for GMPP pricing. There is a dealer in Montana (Fitchner Chevy, and a Caddy/GM dealer in Ebensburg, Pa who advertise wholesale pricing on GMPP. I think the website for the PA dealer is gmoutlet.com. That site will give you details and pricing. When you call there, Jean is the point of contact re other details on GMPP. BTW, your local dealer might also match GMPP pricing that you locate out of state.

Re your question about locating oil leaks under cars without putting the vehicles on a lift, my advice is to slide under the car with your best white shirt.

I am very particular in buying used cars, and I always look under a used car--for damage, leaks, loose parts, etc. Many moons ago, I saw a dent in the frame under a Chevy Caprice--under the radiator. It looked odd. At the rear of the car, there was hay between the gas tank and the straps that hold it up. Even odder.

When I drove the car, I noticed that the seat back mechanism was broken.

Apparently, the former owner ran off a road. He must have 'grabbed some air' prior to the rear end landing in a field and picking up the hay. When he hit the ground, he slammed against the seat back and broke it. In Penna, that car would not pass state inspection because of the broken seat back (even though the damage was not readily visible). I did not buy the car, even though I loved those (early 90) bubble top Caprices.

It is amazing what one can learn by just looking and asking questions. I always ask the service manager what model to stay away from. He/she will also tell you about idiosyncrasies of the cars.

Good luck, again. I don't believe you can go wrong with a CTS. (By the way, you can take the VIN to any GM dealer and have the service writer run a GM maintenance history on the car. Look for "blocked warranty" too. Have someone look at body, paint, etc for previous damage. Nuts and bolts (under hood) that are painted diff color or wrong color are signs. Paint disturbed around nuts and bolts is another sign. Missing stickers on top radiator support is a third sign. Open trunk lid, and look for excess or uneven body putty around the rain gutters at edge of trunk. Nuts and bolts on the trunk hinges, etc. Overspray on side doors, particularly around rubber seals and door latches.

If plastic bolts under front and rear bumpers are missing, car has most likely been in body shop.

In short, pay someone $50 to $100 to check the car out prior to purchase. Heck, if you are buying car from someone other than Caddy dealer, you could pay Caddy dealer to put it up on lift and eyeball much of what I have stated, plus their own ideas on what to look for. Likely, one hour of labor or less.
 

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2006 CTS w/ Luxury PKG
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Discussion Starter #5
z06bigbird,

I can not thank you enough.

You are why this forum is so awesome.

==================================

You are spot-on about Jean & GMPP. I already spoke to her a few days ago. She gave me the following prices, which were a lot cheaper than what the dealers told me:

2006 CTS w/ 41K
Month/Miles, Deductible: 50 - 100 - 200
24/24k, 1315 - 1215 - 1055
36/24k, 1355 - 1250 - 1085
36/30k, 1600 - 1470 - 1265
36/36k, 1775 - 1625 - 1390
48/48k, 2895 - 2625 - 2200

Should I look for better prices from someone else? Most likely I am going to go with the 36/30k w/ $50 deductible.

==================================

In regards to going in reverse and hearing for chatter, do you mean from the engine, or the rear, or the axles, etc? Or all of the above? Any chatter = no good?

==================================

Is there enough room underneath for an average guy to slide in? I have no problem getting dirty, but from what I recall, I don't think i'd fit. BTW I am 5'9" athletic guy. I doubt I can use the dealership's lift (lol), any other ideas?

I searched for reputable mechanics around the area, and unfortunately I couldn't find any. I have an acquaintance who also sells cars in the area, and he admittedly told me that there really isn't a good mechanic around town.

For what it's worth, the CarFax checks out, AND the AutoCheck (which is better than CF from what i've read and been told). Neither show any accidents.

The vehicle was a lease.

The acquaintance I mentioned above also ran the VIN for me, and he told me there was a list of things done under warranty to the car, that seemed out of place, but nothing that sounded off any red flags for him. From what I recall, he said some seals and an engine mount was replaced. Should I be concerned? BTW, he gave the car his seal of approval, granted he wasn't able to look at it and inspect it physically.

==================================

Blocked warranty = very bad right? From what I gather, it means something was done to the car that voided the warranty. In other words, if I see this on the report, I should run right? lol. My acquaintance didn't mention anything about a "blocked warranty" so I think i'm in the clear here.

==================================

I wish I had someone with a trained eye to help me, but I don't. I'll do my best with what little I know.

So basically, inspect the paint, then inspect it again. Look for anything out of the ordinary (bolts, lack of stickers, etc). Check under the bumpers for missing plastic bolts. Did you mean under the wheel wells, or actually underneath the bumpers?

==================================

Again, i'd gladly pay a trusted qualified individual $50, 100, heck even $200 to look at it and tell me that the car is good to go, but I don't have that luxury this time around.

Nonetheless, i'm doing my best with what I got. Carfax (bleh), Autocheck (yay), asked a couple other car buddies I have a ton of questions, etc. Now all that's left is to give an extensive and thorough test to the entire car inside and out.

Thanks again z06.
 

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06 CTS Sport/Luxury package
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I bought my CTS on December 17th of 08, found it on eBay about 100 miles away from me. I needed a car at the time and it was from an Acura dealership in Wapperingers Fall, NY. I live in Ledyard, CT. I had my friend come with me to drive the other car back. She honestly thought that I went out there to look at the car. It was to her surprise that I bought it.

Anyways, It's a 06 CTS with the luxury/sports package. Woodgrain trim, base radio, automatic, power front seats with heat. <<<<the top reason why I wanted it. Once we got there, she was already to come back to CT with us. The sales person gave me the keys and told us to take a spin around the town. BY our self's. That was my 3rd time in my life that a dealership trusted me like that. Everything about it was great including the fact they previous owner never turned off XM or OnStar.

Car fax was perfect except for what I inspected. Which is the rear differential pinion seal replaced, was a recall for it. Which was done at 20k and a year 7 months after the lady bought it. At 32k, front pads were replaced with rotors resurfaced.

The following are things that I had replaced under manufactor's warranty. Driver's seat memory module and one of the motors, the reasons were that the front part of the seat would not go up. I heard the relay clicking, so I knew that the switch was working but the motor was not.

A month later the memory seat switch itself would work every now and then, it was doing it back then but I didn't know exactly what it was. Because, of course, it worked all the time since the new module was installed. Also done at the same time, a switch/sensor in the steering wheel for the Stabilitrak. That was a now and then thing, but they were able to pull an error code for that one. So there was no question about it. Basically that is used to tell the car where the wheels are pointing which determinds which wheel should have the higher amount of brake pressure or what not.

Other than that, she's a great car. Though its a 2.8 liter engine, :-(

KOT
 

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Sedan de Ville, CTS
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z06bigbird,

I can not thank you enough.

You are why this forum is so awesome.

==================================

You are spot-on about Jean & GMPP. I already spoke to her a few days ago. She gave me the following prices, which were a lot cheaper than what the dealers told me:

2006 CTS w/ 41K
Month/Miles, Deductible: 50 - 100 - 200
24/24k, 1315 - 1215 - 1055
36/24k, 1355 - 1250 - 1085
36/30k, 1600 - 1470 - 1265
36/36k, 1775 - 1625 - 1390
48/48k, 2895 - 2625 - 2200

Should I look for better prices from someone else? Most likely I am going to go with the 36/30k w/ $50 deductible.


I have not located anyone cheaper than her. She recently had a $50 rebate, but that might have ended on March 31. Ask her. Take a good look at the $0 deduct. Price diff, as I recall, is less than .... I have always thought that the $0 deduct is worth the few $$. Maybe it's just me.

==================================

In regards to going in reverse and hearing for chatter, do you mean from the engine, or the rear, or the axles, etc? Or all of the above? Any chatter = no good?

Chatter will be from rear end. If it chatters, it is a major problem unless dealer fixes it. (Not sure you are buying from dealer or individual.) Couple thousand $$, methinks, for major repair on any rear end.

==================================

Is there enough room underneath for an average guy to slide in? I have no problem getting dirty, but from what I recall, I don't think i'd fit. BTW I am 5'9" athletic guy. I doubt I can use the dealership's lift (lol), any other ideas?


Run it by a Midas or even a Jiffy Lube type of place. Typical cost is a large pizza for mgr and staff. LOL Works for me whenever I need quick help.

I searched for reputable mechanics around the area, and unfortunately I couldn't find any. I have an acquaintance who also sells cars in the area, and he admittedly told me that there really isn't a good mechanic around town.

For what it's worth, the CarFax checks out, AND the AutoCheck (which is better than CF from what i've read and been told). Neither show any accidents.

The vehicle was a lease.

The acquaintance I mentioned above also ran the VIN for me, and he told me there was a list of things done under warranty to the car, that seemed out of place, but nothing that sounded off any red flags for him. From what I recall, he said some seals and an engine mount was replaced. Should I be concerned? BTW, he gave the car his seal of approval, granted he wasn't able to look at it and inspect it physically.

==================================

Blocked warranty = very bad right? From what I gather, it means something was done to the car that voided the warranty. In other words, if I see this on the report, I should run right? lol. My acquaintance didn't mention anything about a "blocked warranty" so I think i'm in the clear here.


Blocked warranty means there ain't no warranty. It some times results from vehicle being involved in even minor accident. Typically happens if car is sold thru an auction. Ins cos notify manufacts. Manufacts block the warr and save $$. Any GM service writer can print out that report, and the top of VIS report shows in-service date, 'warranty blocked?,' etc. You can call any GM dealership; give the service writer the last 8 or 10 digits of vin, and he can tell you if warr is blocked. Simple request.

Blocked warr could have been the result of someone modifying car too--adding racing equipment on car, etc.


==================================

I wish I had someone with a trained eye to help me, but I don't. I'll do my best with what little I know.

So basically, inspect the paint, then inspect it again. Look for anything out of the ordinary (bolts, lack of stickers, etc). Check under the bumpers for missing plastic bolts. Did you mean under the wheel wells, or actually underneath the bumpers?

Actually, both. Front bumper has about 20 plastic bolts holding a black piece of plastic to bumper. Some body shops just do not replace all of them. They really cannot fall out by themselves. Also, check wheel wells for damage to the black plastic fender liners. All plastic bolts should be there. If there is a tear or a hole in liner, the car has been hit.

Check edges of rubber seals around head lights and edges of tail lights for overspray. Area inside of gas door will also indicate prev damage if you see sloppy body putty, or bolts have been disturbed.

Remember the door hinges and the door latches. Latches should not have any paint on them. Hinges should not show any scratches on bolts as a result of wrenches being put on them.

Look at alignment of door, trunk, and hood seams. Should be even. Bolts underneath hood and trunk should not show any signs (scratches) of movement.

Look under hood. If wires and hoses around fenders or cowl show overspray, there was prev paint work and damage.

Sounds like a great car. Hope you get a great price. Keep in mind that there are a ton of super CTSs out there with low miles. Buying from any dealer at end of month will get you a low price. If buying from a dealer, just before you agree on a final price, squeeze one more time, and ask him to replace both front and back brake pads with GM pads. If he balks, volunteer to pay for parts if he throws labor in. You could do same with oil change; just make sure you get synthetic oil. (Not sure how you could verify that.) Car does require synthetic oil, btw, to maintain warr.

Hope you get a good color car. I suspect your actual purchase is one fine vehicle.

If you end up buying new tires, I bought Goodyear F1 all seasons one year ago. 10,000 miles later, I need to replace them. This time I will go with Bridgestone Potenza Pole Position 960s. In fact, I am on my way to Disc Tire right now.

I did my homework on those Goodyears, but....



==================================

Again, i'd gladly pay a trusted qualified individual $50, 100, heck even $200 to look at it and tell me that the car is good to go, but I don't have that luxury this time around.

Nonetheless, i'm doing my best with what I got. Carfax (bleh), Autocheck (yay), asked a couple other car buddies I have a ton of questions, etc. Now all that's left is to give an extensive and thorough test to the entire car inside and out.

Thanks again z06.

Have fun.
 

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2006 CTS w/ Luxury PKG
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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks z06 and Kingoftypos.

Today I spent about 1.5hr with the car, and from what I could tell, everything checked out!

Paint looked good.
Everything looked aligned.
No chatter while going in reverse.
Plastic bolts under bumpers were there.
All electricals worked.
AND the tires were in great shape! I did the penny test, and Abraham's forehead was more than covered.

I do have 2 questions tho:

1) brakes... is the feedback supposed to be very soft? On my Acura, the brakes are "harder." This didn't worry me much tho, because when I did want the car to stop on a dime, it did, and did it well.

2) engine.. WOW it was loud! now, during idle / revving in park, it was loud but sounded fine, but i just couldnt help but notice how loud the engine was. Again, i'm coming from a less powerful engine in an Acura, so is the loud (but normal sounding) engine a characteristic of GM vehicles?
 

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07 CTS w/ performance pkg, 18" wheel pkg
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Our 07 is quiet (at least to me) until you put your foot down, then I think it sounds great! Maybe your just used to not hearing anything
 

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Engine should be quiet as a kitten. Look for documentation of prev oil changes. You need to drive that car to have a Cadillac service mgr or a GM service mgr somewhere listen to that engine. All American engines are very quiet. Your friend said that the GM service report showed nothing unusual. Have him take another look. Maybe that report shows something innocuous-sounding like noisy engine.

Someone needs to listen to that engine.
 

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No matter what, I ALWAYS change the engine oil with in a couple of weeks of me buying a car. You never can tell when the last time the oil was changed.

Just like nuskool said, you may not be use to the new engine sound. Does it have a single exhaust, or dual? Are you hearing the sound from the engine compartment or the rear? Comparing my 2.8 CTS to my old 3.8 Grand Prix none super charged but with dual exhaust. There is a hugh difference in exhaust note, since the CTS is only a single port. As far as coming from the engine compartment, not much of a difference. Of course Im saying this with the hood down.

If you hear a ticking noise coming from the engine, don't worry about it. It's normal, check this thread out. http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-cts-forum-2003-through-2007/166862-help-anyone-know-what-part.html
Sorry about the link, my html is rusty right now.

KOT
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The idle appears fine to me, it's just when we're driving it.

It's just a lot louder from inside the cabin when I step on the gas.

On my Acura, I only really hear the engine roar like that when I hit 4k+ RPM.




Any comments about the brakes guys? Is the soft feedback normal?
 

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The idle appears fine to me, it's just when we're driving it.

It's just a lot louder from inside the cabin when I step on the gas.

On my Acura, I only really hear the engine roar like that when I hit 4k+ RPM.




Any comments about the brakes guys? Is the soft feedback normal?
Noise you are hearing is likely the exhaust sound, not the engine. If you hear a ticking sound from under the hood, then someone has not changed the oil. Or, as other member stated, do a search here for additional info.

Exhaust noise should come from end of tail pipe.
If noise is particularly loud from engine area, then it could be a worn exhaust manifold gasket. If really really really loud (like over 140 decibels), then it is a cracked manifold.
Lastly, it might be normal.

My response sounds like one from an attorney.

Get more input, and make your decision.

Maybe there is a forum member who lives near you; he/she can listen to car. Or any independent mechanic can listen. Just tell indy mechanic that you are thinking of buying car. Theoretically, he should have no incentive to badmouth car.
 

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The idle appears fine to me, it's just when we're driving it.

It's just a lot louder from inside the cabin when I step on the gas.

On my Acura, I only really hear the engine roar like that when I hit 4k+ RPM.




Any comments about the brakes guys? Is the soft feedback normal?
I might be in your area on Wednesday. So email me your contact info and I'll give you a call or whatever.

[email protected]
 
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