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'05 CTS-V (sold)
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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, I've had the UUC and bushings for about 2 weeks now (courtesy of Lindsay Cadillac - Thanks!) and I'm about to jack up the car and install it. Any last minute bits of advice or warnings? I plan on dropping the exhaust and driveshaft (the latter of which makes me a bit nervous) as per the instructions but won't be lowering the tranny (again, as per the instructions). Should I dynamat anywhere around the shifter or belly of the car while I'm under there?
 

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268 Posts
The drive shaft is just three bolts - it is easier than the exhaust. I did not notice any additional noise at all after I installed the UUC and I just re-installed the stock foam.

You won't believe the difference.

Marty
 

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crushing Vs with my Wurm
2013 GT500 - 700+ HP
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just drop the front end of the driveshaft and support it. LOADS easier than taking the whole thing off.

F
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys! If it turns out to be an easy-ish install then maybe I'll put in the BMR diff support as well to get rid of that clunk. The rear has been whining though and I'm hesitant to give the dealership any excuse as to it's ultimate demise.
 

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Cadillac Technician
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Granted I have a lift, but I never unhook the propshaft from the trans.
If you take the crossmember out you can lower the trans far enough to get the shifter to clear, it's kind of a pain.
If you don't have much room under the car you can sneak up in there with the right tools and just take out the throughbolt in the shifter and do the rest from the top.
I prefer to take the whole assembly out of the car and work on it on the workbench but I know most DIYers don't have the stuff I have to work with.
If you want to unhook the propshaft from the trans, I could see that working really well. I just don't like to undo those bolts.

Taking the center console off will make it easier to remove some of the fasteners you have to take off to access the rivets and the shifter.
There are 4 bolts in the back behind the plugs, 2 bolts up front, one on either side behind the carpet and two electrical connections then the console lifts right out for miuch easier access.

HTH.
Good luck!
 

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2004 CTSV
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If you drill the rivets out from below, the press end of the rivet centers the drill bit. If you drill from above, be sure to center punch the flat end of the rivets so that you don't drill into the bracket.

The driveshaft is no problem. Get a piece of wood about a foot long to prop up the driveshaft off to the side a little.

The damned Corsa exhaust was the bitch. I had to spread the female end of the tubes to get the thing back together. And, of course, I didn't do that until I wrestled with it for a half hour first.

Recommendation #1 - use lots of lube on the bushings to insert into bracket

Recommendation #2 - enjoy the new shifter

T
 

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2004 CTSV
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Recommendation #1.5 - be careful removing the bottom dirt cover. It will stretch enough to fit over the bottom of the stock shifter if you work it slowly.

Tony
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for everyone's advice. The install of the UUC shifter and bushings went pretty smoothly - though it ended up taking me and a friend about 4 hrs (including a pizza break).

I didn't lower the exhaust or the driveshaft. I worked around them. It was tight but it worked. If I had to do it over again I would have removed the exhaust from the beginning. It definitely made access a bitch. I really didn't see any need to unhook the driveshaft though. I also installed a few pieces of FatMat sound deadener underneath the center tunnel. Not sure if it'll amount to any difference in sound inside the cabin but it sure can't hurt.

I took her for a testdrive and I'm truly amazed at the difference it makes. My hands are far from being slammed into the center dash unit and the shifts just feel so precise. Almost German. Reverse is sooooo much easier to get into now. A definite MUST HAVE mod and I recommend it to the DIYers out there. I'm so-so around a vehicle and this mod scared me to start but ended up being easier than I thought.

I'll take a picture of the stock shifter later. The plastic piece inside the lower connector was literally falling out in pieces when I took it out. Talk about a piece of crap.
 
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