[Guest]

I am thinking about selling a complete oil cooler kit. Would anyone be interested? It would be roughly $400-450 plus shipping.

The kit would include everything needed to install an oil cooler (with integrated fan and thermostat to automatically turn the fan on and off) and a larger power steering cooler. It would include braided stainless steel lines with -AN fittings, a new bracket that holds the two coolers and replaces the stock power steering cooler mount and a sandwich style filter adapter. I have had one on my car for about 6 months and it keeps the oil about 20°F cooler.

 

[rjoffe]

How much install time is involved ?

 

[CadiBlk]

What kind of temps we talking here? I've seen coolers that don't have fans that run the oil too low for me as a DD nontrack car. I am interested in cooling the oil for when I get to sit in this wonderful Atlanta traffic and it is 110 degrees outside and the pavement is 130, for the longevity of the engine. But after reading into it, the coolers would keep my oil too cold. Does that make any sense? Am I mistaken?

Integrated PS cooler is an added plus. :thumbsup:

 

[MAPerformance]

Already working on one haha.. Damn you need a job, your on the same thought patter as us!

 

[Stepside]

How about . . refrigerate the maggie. I can't remember, maybe a German Mfg has invented this for there 2010 model.

Back to the Oil Cooler.
~ Wouldn't a dry sump system be better?? . . . Food for Thought.

 

[Guest]

How much install time is involved ?

It would pretty much be plug and play. The only time consuming part is wiring the power for the fan. You splice into a switched power wire under the steering column and run a ground wire to an existing ground on the passenger side front frame rail. I actually bypassed the thermostat on mine and installed a toggle switch where the cigarette lighter used to be. Other than that, you install the sandwich adapter above the oil filter, remove the stock PS cooler and bracket, place the cooler assembly where the stock PS one was and attach with the two stock nuts, run the braided and insulated lines and attach both ends.

On the track, I used to see oil temps of about 240. But with the cooler, I haven't seen above 225.

What kind of temps we talking here? I've seen coolers that don't have fans that run the oil too low for me as a DD nontrack car. I am interested in cooling the oil for when I get to sit in this wonderful Atlanta traffic and it is 110 degrees outside and the pavement is 130, for the longevity of the engine. But after reading into it, the coolers would keep my oil too cold. Does that make any sense? Am I mistaken?

Integrated PS cooler is an added plus. :thumbsup:

I have my radiator fans set to come on earlier than stock and during the summer (80 deg F) my coolant and oil both run about 180 deg, with the oil cooler fan off. If you use the thermostat on the cooler, it is set to turn the fan on at 180 deg. I'm also looking into a sandwich adapter that only allows 10% of the oil to pass to the cooler until 180 deg, then it opens to allow all of the oil to route to the cooler. You could always put an inline valve on the oil supply line and manually close it during the cooler weather.

Already working on one haha.. Damn you need a job, your on the same thought patter as us!

Funny, I have a full time job that takes me away from this fun stuff for a total of 12 hours per day! That includes driving for 2 hours and 40 minutes where I dream up these ideas.

 

[Guest]

How about . . refrigerate the maggie. I can't remember, maybe a German Mfg has invented this for there 2010 model.

Back to the Oil Cooler.
~ Wouldn't a dry sump system be better?? . . . Food for Thought.

I thought about a dry sump system for a minute. But, I was concerned about finding a place for the sump and fabricating brackets and such. I already have all of the lines, parts and bracket ready for this type of system.

 

[c4ss]

So I'm assuming with the toggle switch, you could flip it on during track days and/or hot days. Does the kit you would sell include the toggle switch and put it in the cigarette lighter?

 

[Guest]

Yes, the toggle switch allows you to control when the fan turns on. I only turn it on when on the track for that extra bit of cooling. I could get anyone that wants one a toggle switch. I fabbed up a washer to sandwich the change holder's plastic as the hole was too big for the switch. I have a picture of it but don't have the cable to hook up my camera to the computer with me. I'll post it tomorrow.

I think to keep the temp up during cooler weather the shutoff/bypass valve would be the best option.

 

[darkman]

Canton Racing makes an inline thermostat that will switch the oil flow on/off at 215 degrees, which is ideal. They are not cheap - the Canton price is $180 although their products are available elsewhere often at lower prices.

 

[crankedupforit]

Already working on one haha.. Damn you need a job, your on the same thought patter as us!

Here's a few ideas Adam/Pisinuoff. The fittings should be 10AN for the best flow and should include a Mocal thermostat made for LS engines (see link).They are the cleanest simplest solutions IMO. The lines should be pre cut to fit. Also I wouldn't get carried away with to many rows either. Here is the link for the thermostat.

http://www.improvedracing.com/product_info.php?products_id=33 Check out the mounting pics.

The mounts should be stainless steel the lines should be routed so the whole setup is nice and tidy. You put something like that together and I'll be your first customer. I think this could come in at a pretty attractive price. Just don't see the need for the fan and all. My .02

 

[jweymar]

I thought about a dry sump system for a minute. But, I was concerned about finding a place for the sump and fabricating brackets and such. I already have all of the lines, parts and bracket ready for this type of system.

RPM motors built a drysump for Lunarx's LS7 Mallet.

He put it where the battery is and relocated that to the trunk.

Lots of custom fab work, but it looks awesome!

 

[AAIIIC]

On the track, I used to see oil temps of about 240. But with the cooler, I haven't seen above 225.

How big a cooler are you using? Honestly, I would have expected a bit bigger difference. Then again, at 240F, you're really not in the range where a cooler is needed.

I have my radiator fans set to come on earlier than stock and during the summer (80 deg F) my coolant and oil both run about 180 deg, with the oil cooler fan off.

That's a bit low. You want your oil to be above the boiling point of water so any entrained water is boiled off and vents out of the system. The 225F you're seeing on track is about perfect.

I'm also looking into a sandwich adapter that only allows 10% of the oil to pass to the cooler until 180 deg, then it opens to allow all of the oil to route to the cooler.

As crankedupforit said (and I've posted here before), Mocal makes a thermostatic oil cooler take-off that bolts to the block. Not sure what brand of sandwich adapter you've been looking at, but Mocal makes thermostatic sandwich adapters, too - I've had one on my Moostang for years now. (Strangely enough, the SP1CT for 13/16" threads ('04 and '05, I think?) is $170, but the SP1GT for 22mm threads ('06 and '07?) is only $97. WTF?!)

Back to the Oil Cooler.
~ Wouldn't a dry sump system be better?? . . . Food for Thought.

Depends on your definition of "better". A dry sump system is a whole nuther level of $$, fabrication, etc.

Here's a few ideas Adam/Pisinuoff. The fittings should be 10AN for the best flow and should include a Mocal thermostat made for LS engines (see link).They are the cleanest simplest solutions IMO. The lines should be pre cut to fit. Also I wouldn't get carried away with to many rows either. Here is the link for the thermostat.

http://www.improvedracing.com/product_info.php?products_id=33 Check out the mounting pics.

The mounts should be stainless steel the lines should be routed so the whole setup is nice and tidy. You put something like that together and I'll be your first customer. I think this could come in at a pretty attractive price. Just don't see the need for the fan and all. My .02

I concur with all of the above.

 

[SkullV]

Doesn't Luke already carry something like this? Maybe something to work off of/improve.

Edit: Here it is:
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/2004-2007-cadillac-cts-v-general/157561-oil-cooler-kit.html

 

[Guest]

Here's a few ideas Adam/Pisinuoff. The fittings should be 10AN for the best flow and should include a Mocal thermostat made for LS engines (see link).They are the cleanest simplest solutions IMO. The lines should be pre cut to fit. Also I wouldn't get carried away with to many rows either. Here is the link for the thermostat.

http://www.improvedracing.com/product_info.php?products_id=33 Check out the mounting pics.

The mounts should be stainless steel the lines should be routed so the whole setup is nice and tidy. You put something like that together and I'll be your first customer. I think this could come in at a pretty attractive price. Just don't see the need for the fan and all. My .02

I have all of that incorporated with a couple exceptions. I have a thermostatic mount that opens at 190°F. I use -8AN fittings and did not see any increase in oil pressure. I'm sure -10AN would flow more, but I'm not sure most of us need that much. My current mount in my car is aluminum, but stainless would not be a problem and my lines are tucked up neatly and out of the way.

How big a cooler are you using? Honestly, I would have expected a bit bigger difference. Then again, at 240F, you're really not in the range where a cooler is needed.......

The dimensions of the plate and fin cooler are about 9x9, excluding the brackets.

Doesn't Luke already carry something like this? Maybe something to work off of/improve.

Edit: Here it is:
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/2004-2007-cadillac-cts-v-general/157561-oil-cooler-kit.html

Luke and I were developing our systems at about the same time last year. My system has an integral fan, ss lines, thermostatic adapter and an integral power steering cooler. I'll try to get some pictures of my setup tonight and post them. The final design may look slightly different but it'll be along the same principles.

However, I'm thinking that the integral fan may not really be necessary. This would really simplify installation.

 

[Guest]

(Strangely enough, the SP1CT for 13/16" threads ('04 and '05, I think?) is $170, but the SP1GT for 22mm threads ('06 and '07?) is only $97. WTF?!)

FYI - The '07 has different threads than the '06.

 

[Guest]

C4SS - Here is a pic of my switch.

 

[AAIIIC]

I use -8AN fittings and did not see any increase in oil pressure. I'm sure -10AN would flow more, but I'm not sure most of us need that much.

Why/how would you see an increase in oil pressure by adding a restriction? Did you mean decrease? I'd be surprised if the bearings aren't now seeing less pressure due to the -8AN lines. If you search around forums with people that open track or road race their cars a lot you will find that -10AN is generally considered the minimum size you want to use. My Mustang's setup is -10AN, and the setup I'm putting on my Subaru (a little 2.5L engine, with 2/3 the oil system capacity of our LS motors and a lot shorter distance for oil to travel) is also -10AN. I strongly encourage you to reconsider the -8AN lines - I really thinking you're increasing the risk of bearing damage.

My current mount in my car is aluminum, but stainless would not be a problem ...

Actually, I guess that would be one thing I didn't concur with on crankedupforit's post. There's really no reason to use stainless steel. Aluminum brackets will work just fine and weigh less, which is a good thing when you're mounting something way out on the nose of the car.

The dimensions of the plate and fin cooler are about 9x9, excluding the brackets.

Roger that. What brand is the cooler?

FYI - The '07 has different threads than the '06.

I couldn't remember if it was '06 or '07 when they changed, and I was too lazy to go find the oil filter thread in which that was just discussed last week.

 

[Guest]

Why/how would you see an increase in oil pressure by adding a restriction? Did you mean decrease? I'd be surprised if the bearings aren't now seeing less pressure due to the -8AN lines. If you search around forums with people that open track or road race their cars a lot you will find that -10AN is generally considered the minimum size you want to use. My Mustang's setup is -10AN, and the setup I'm putting on my Subaru (a little 2.5L engine, with 2/3 the oil system capacity of our LS motors and a lot shorter distance for oil to travel) is also -10AN. I strongly encourage you to reconsider the -8AN lines - I really thinking you're increasing the risk of bearing damage.

Yeah, I meant decrease. :thepan: I stare at the oil pressure all the time and the pressure did not change more than a couple psi. My pressure at idle is still in the low 30's and it's in the 70's at high rpms. Maybe I don't notice much because my pump has had work done to it? I'd still feel safe if it were down to low 20's at idle. I'll call the tech support of the manufacturer tomorrow. They have -8AN fittings on the cooler itself. I wonder if the plates in it will flow enough to support the -10AN fittings and hose. If the cooler will support it, I have no problem switching to a -10AN setup.

I couldn't remember if it was '06 or '07 when they changed, and I was too lazy to go find the oil filter thread in which that was just discussed last week.

I didn't follow that thread. I only know because I looked in the filter book at Autozone and saw the '06 one first and bought that one. I figured it had to be the same as both are LS2's. Luckily I had another car to return to the store after I couldn't get the filter on!!!

 

[soflarick]

The change to metric threads was in 2007. 04-06 were the same.