Cadillac Owners Forum banner

1 - 20 of 43 Posts

·
Registered
1998 Cadillac Deville Sedan
Joined
·
897 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have an aftermarket stereo installed and my car starts hard after whenever I have my stereo turned on at any volume, but the car starts fine after about a day or two with the stereo off. The hard start is worse at night with the lights on and all, but the voltage is never below 13.3v. My car works perfectly before I put the stereo in so in some way my car don't like the additional electrical components. My stereo is capable of pulling more than 120 amps but my car still starts hard even if the radio is on low volume. This is really confusing me...:hmm:

btw when the car threw a misfire it stored a misfire code, PO606 and P106. But guess what? The check engine light turned off by itself when I had it parked for two days and runs fine. Then I turned on the stereo for a road trip...starts hard after that.:annoyed:
 

·
Registered
13 Challenger RT, 11 CTS Coupe Premium, 94 Eldorado (RIP)
Joined
·
1,306 Posts
weister42 said:
I have an aftermarket stereo installed and my car starts hard after whenever I have my stereo turned on at any volume, but the car starts fine after about a day or two with the stereo off.
What about with the radio off, not waiting a day or two?

It sounds like not enough juice from the battery. Is the 13.3 volts while the car is running? What is the voltage with the motor not running?

Is may be possible your volts are ok, but your cranking amps aren't.
 

·
Registered
1998 Cadillac Deville Sedan
Joined
·
897 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
With the radio off I usually can get the car back to normal within a day or two, depending on the distance I drive and how many times I start the car.

Maybe my car's electrical system is not up to the task, cause I remember my car seems to start a little hard after my AC's been on or just the fan on in general. Here's some ieas I came up with...

1. Battery/alternator going bad.
2. Wire corrosion?
3. Ground issue?

I have a friend who told me that by providing more ground point in various engine components the power flow will be a lot more stable.
 

·
Registered
13 Challenger RT, 11 CTS Coupe Premium, 94 Eldorado (RIP)
Joined
·
1,306 Posts
All very good ideas. I would clear up any obvious corrosion first. After that, take it to a parts store and have them test the battery and alternator (if you don't have the testers yourself).
 

·
Registered
1998 Cadillac Deville Sedan
Joined
·
897 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Ya, turns out the more power I pull from the battery with my stereo the worse my car starts. Time to upgrade the electrical system...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
577 Posts
Doesn't sound like an alternator to me. Check grounds at first. Also, if stereo is capable to eat a lot of ampers, it should be connected to the powerfull enough terminals.
 

·
Registered
1998 Cadillac Deville Sedan
Joined
·
897 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
All the grounds are good(cleaned and sanded to bare metal) and I use 0 gauge power & ground wires, unless there's a certain place on the car where I can't have a high current ground? I have a ground on the steel brackets holding the front dash together(for my headunit) and a ground on the rear seat support(for my two amps). I took out my subs and my sub amp and the problem persists, but not as bad. I really don't understand this because I can crank my stereo as loud as I want and the car still runs perfect, but as soon as I shut it off...blah:halo:
 

·
Registered
13 Challenger RT, 11 CTS Coupe Premium, 94 Eldorado (RIP)
Joined
·
1,306 Posts
Have you taken the car to have the battery and alternator tested yet? It doesn't take much for them to do and it might help in diagnosing the problem.
 

·
Registered
1998 Cadillac Deville Sedan
Joined
·
897 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Battery checked out good and the alt puts out good power I think, I mean if the alt isn't working my car shouldn't be able to stay above 13v in any condition. I will get the alt checked out soon.
 

·
Registered
13 Challenger RT, 11 CTS Coupe Premium, 94 Eldorado (RIP)
Joined
·
1,306 Posts
Your voltage should be almost 14v, at least 13.5v, while the car is running. You said you think the alternator is good. Did you get it tested? Parts store should check the battery and the alternator at the same time, while the rpms are held up around 2000rpms. What is the battery voltage when your having the hard start (before it turns over)?
 

·
Registered
'02 ETC CE, '04 CTS-V, '04 XLR, '13 XTS Platinum
Joined
·
2,515 Posts
Lots of good suggestions from *************** members here. Another possiblilty to consider: A parasitic ground on the system that slowly discharges the battery over time. These can be a bear to troubleshoot without documentation or the right tools, but paying a dealer to find these faults can cost you your firstborn male child . . . or worse . . ! Ensure you're getting enough cold-cranking amps from your battery. Then go over the aftermarket stereo install with a fine-toothed comb. As a general rule, whenever someone modifies something and a problem developes, it can oftentimes be traced right back to the mod. Always consider alternatives when troubleshooting to avoid tunnel vision. It's easy to get locked into one train of thought and end up excluding other avenues of exploration. Let the symptoms guide you. Make a list of what the problems are, when they occur and their repeatablilty. How many times have you been totally stumped by a seemingly difficult problem and when the fix is finally discovered thought, "Why didn't I think of that sooner! It was easy!!" These posts are full of problems that start full of frustration and end up with satisfaction because the problem turned out to be deceptively easy. Many of the posts get left open and one must assume the last suggestion provided the fix, -cause the poster never responded again. They either fixed the problem or pushed the car off a cliff and gave up. You CAN fix this if you're willing to put in the time to learn how the charging system is supposed to work, make up a list of symptoms showing how it doesn't work and then conect the dots. I know I'm making this troubleshooting thing out to be easy and it isn't sometimes, but if you break a problem down into little parts, it's much easier to understand. Please obtain a schematic of your vehicle, (if the battery isn't the culprit) and go over the schematic section by section. What circuits work are just as important as what circuits are failing. In my humble (and I've been wrong plenty!!) opinion, it sounds like the charging circuit is faulty either by a component in the charging circuit, or a ground is slowly drawing the life out of the battery. Keep us posted!
(Sorry, I didn't mean to ramble on so . . .)
CCC
 

·
Registered
1998 Cadillac Deville Sedan
Joined
·
897 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Well right after I start the car(after a long crank) the voltage goes to about 14.1v pretty quick, but at night when the lights are running it starts around 11.6v then slowly gain to about 14v...I'll go get my alt checked today.

There's the list of events of my headache:

1. Bought car(98,000 miles), runs awesome, replaced worn-out parts(plugs, wires, fuel filter, cleaned injectors, K&N air filter)
2. Installed a CD player, sleep mode problem made me mad so out it goes.
3. Drove to Chicago and back without any complaints.
4. Got sick of tape deck and tinny stereo.
5. Reinstalled headunit via a 8 gauge fused power wire directly from battery, kept the factory radio under the dash, installed a 0 gauge power wire from the battery to the trunk to feed 2 amplifiers. I also removed the rack behind the rear seat that holds all the fuses and relays, right now those components are just laying around.
6. Cranked the stereo really loud, came back to eat, went back to start the car and it started INSTANTLY(this is never the case it always takes about 3 ~ 5 turns).
7. Car starts to have long crank problems, gets worse if my stereo is on, even if it's at the lowest volume.
8. Went to mechanic and they can't figure out what's wrong.
9. Removed K&N air filter for the original one.
9. Cranked my stereo even louder that night, car threw a misfire next day along with a PO106 and PO606, one has to do with MAP sensor. Check engine light went away by itself after two days(my stereo was completely off).
10. Removed subwoofer amp, problem exists but not as bad.
11. Mechanic checked FPR via the procedures indicated by this forum(credits to...I forgot who:duck: ), checks out good. He says when he was trying to reprogram the car's computer it won't let him.
12. Checked battery, good.
13. Did a quick calculation, my stereo can pull about 150 amps at full blast.
 

·
Registered
13 Challenger RT, 11 CTS Coupe Premium, 94 Eldorado (RIP)
Joined
·
1,306 Posts
Why did you install the headunit with an 8 gauge fed directly from the battery? Every radio I have ever installed was fed by a smaller gauge wire, somewhere between 18 and 22. You should have a memory wire hooked up to constant 12v and then a power wire that is coming from an ignition source (only powered when ignition is on). Even if your headunit has an amp in or on it, it shouldn't be that big to require 8 gauge wire.

It was mentioned in the second post that your battery CCA might not be good enough. Checking your battery voltage isn't checking your CCA.
 

·
Registered
1998 Cadillac Deville Sedan
Joined
·
897 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
My car battery is not original and it has 800 CCA max, but just last night I tried to run all my lights, defog and defrost and my car voltage dipped to 12.8V and lower. Should I get a Optima Yellow top, a red top or just a bigger battery? I'm probably going to buy two and have one for the car and one for the stereo, it'll probably help starting with more batteries anyway.
 

·
Registered
1998 Cadillac Deville Sedan
Joined
·
897 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
I used 8 gauge wire for my headunit because I have it laying around, can't hurt to have more than you need:duck: The turn-on wire is not hooked up to any ignition source(I didn't want to mess with the steering column); it's wired up to 12V power via a switch. The ground is drilled onto the steel beam that holds the front dash together and it's also 8 gauge.
 

·
Registered
13 Challenger RT, 11 CTS Coupe Premium, 94 Eldorado (RIP)
Joined
·
1,306 Posts
Ok, you flip the switch to supply power to the radio.

I haven't installed a radio on a car that didn't have a fuse box under the dash. When there is a fuse box, you just hook the small gauge turn on wire under a fuse like "windshield wiper" or "radio" (if there is one), something that only turns on when the ignition is on. In yours, you could run a fuse to the trunk fuse panel to the one labeled "radio/phone". Make sure you put the wire under the correct side of the fuse.
 

·
Registered
1998 Cadillac Deville Sedan
Joined
·
897 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
The switch doesn't cut the power entirely to the headunit, just between the 12v power and the ignition wire from the CD player. I came up with ~150amps from using the volts x amps = watts rule, I have a 1000watt [email protected] 12v sub amp, a 4 channel amp that puts out around 200watts altogether, and the power for the headunit. So...1200watt x 12v(14v when the car's running) plus the few amps used by the headunit = to about 150amps. The formula assumes 100% efficiency and no amplifiers can do close to that ratio, not to mention my amps are underrated and probably draws more power than the manual says.
 

·
Registered
13 Challenger RT, 11 CTS Coupe Premium, 94 Eldorado (RIP)
Joined
·
1,306 Posts
Before it gets confusing, let me just ask a simple question. Can you turn your radio or amps on without the ignition turned on?

Ok, one more question. Does your radio retain memory?

Just trying to help. I know it is starting to sound like "20 Questions."
 

·
Registered
1998 Cadillac Deville Sedan
Joined
·
897 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Yes I can turn my radio on even if the keys are out:sneaky: and it retains memory.


I forget where to buy the actual kit to mount the factory radio in the trunk so for now it's sitting under the center console, the metal beams behind the radio is where I ground the new headunit. The switch under the CD player is what turns my radio on and off.
 
1 - 20 of 43 Posts
Top