A Few Questions

A Few Answers:

1. Have you tried indexing your windows? (See owners manual if unsure how to do so.) If indexing is working normally, you may need to have your dealer run a scan of the Driver's Door Module to determine if it's a mechanical or electrical issue.

2. There are relays below the passenger side toe board (under the carpet.) This may be what you're hearing.

3. The headlamps are easy to replace. Getting the money to do so isn't. They run about $1000 each new. The rear "lights" are LEDs. They require metric butt tons of money too. There are lots of used headlamps for sale on eBay. Caveat emptor. Many are the old style with crazed DRL bezels (which is why they're for sale on eBay.) You want the newer style with clear bezels (vice orange.) You'll also need a modified pigtail harness for each side. The subject of headlamp replacement has been beaten to death on this forum. Search is your friend for more detailed info. Ask back for specifics.

CCC

Awesome, thanks for the help. I think the windows bit might be an electrical problem as it just started closing upon door close today, might be a loose connection or relay somewhere. I kinda figured they were relays going nuts, I was just wondering if it was normal to hear them when entering the car, unlocking doors, things like that. I kinda figured the headlamps and tail-lamps would be beaten to death on here, was just late last night and I was admittedly lazy. A shame that the lamps run so high. These work fine right now, it's just cosmetics that I'll fix down the line (cracks and such from previous owner).

A final thing, I'm pretty sure there's a fuel leak somewhere as I smell gasoline after I stop, and after its first night in the garage I opened the door to quite the potent aroma. Something I'm going to be looking at this Friday afternoon when I have the time. Until then, probably going to sit so I don't catch fire.

Thanks again,
-Matt

If I remember correctly, this repair was considered an emissions issue, and had a much longer expiration via warranty (maybe the ten years you indicated) repair. I would file a report with the NHTSA documenting the issue here http://www.nhtsa.gov/Vehicle+Safety/Recalls+&+Defects once it's repaired, if it is indeed a cracked tank.

My left tank was cracked at the junction where the fuel crossover pipe attaches. The venturi-operated fuel pumps are located inside each tank. The repair would have been something like $3k or more since the exhaust system had to be removed and the rear suspension lowered to access the tanks. If your problem is a cracked tank, I'd ask the Service Manager to repair it free as a goodwill gesture (they can do this, at their discretion.) You should not have to pay for a documented safety issue (even if it's classified as an emissions problem.)

Hopefully, you'll never need to have the water-cooled generator replaced. It's considered a major repair and runs a few thousand bucks since the engine needs to be lifted. Relocating the generator on the XLR's Northstar was one of the mods required to shoehorn the engine in the limited space available. On the plus side, the XLR's Northstar was the best and last incarnation of this engine. I've only read one account of someone having the dreaded head gasket insert failure so common to other Northstar engines.

Just because the prices of XLRs have become pretty affordable, new owners are discovering how expensive they can be to maintain. A lot of XLR-specific trim pieces are nearly impossible to find unless you locate one in a salvage yard.

CCC

I've definitely been learning a lot about repairs. Went and got myself the service manual and I've been going over it with a fine toothed comb. Already helped me fix a few simple things myself and I'm hoping to be able to learn to do most of the work myself.

I'm actually heading to a junk yard tomorrow to find a few things that I need to replace on this XLR. I've already fixed the horn, it was a pretty simple issue. I've got a friend with a Tech 2 letting me use it, and helping me, and I'm giving him $120 to help me with diagnosis and get all the DTC's that turn up so I know exactly what's wrong with the car according to the Tech 2. Going to recalibrate the sensors for the top using the tech 2 because it doesn't finish the close or open process until I release the button and press it again., the trunk hangs and won't shut until I release and press the button again.

I'll file a report and see where that gets me. Hopefully I can see about getting this fixed up by a Cadillac dealer as a gesture of good will like you say. Below is a link to the quick connector leak extension I was talking about. Pretty sure I'm SOL. Called Cadillac and they did what they could to get me "cost assistance" on the issue since they "can't cover the issue under warranty or the extended special coverage."

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/ACM15169109/INSL-PE10015-41488.pdf

Thanks again for all your help and suggestions.

This is the (GM) recommended product: http://www.shop3m.com/3m-auto-bedding-and-glazing-compound-08509-1-10-gallon-us-cartridge.html

I'm not sure what you mean by "liner" though. Do you mean the rubber weather seal around the lip of the trunk edges? There's a TSB out for a supplemental seal fix on the forward edges of the rear deck lid seal to prevent water leaking into the electronics storage area on the rear/left side of the trunk that will fry the Suspension and Folding Top Control modules. It uses Kent Automotive automotive shim stock (P46475)

POC is:Alicia Walker - Web Customer Care Rep Lawson Products Inc. Customer Contact Center Phone # 1-866-837-9908 Ext 7334.

I've attached the pdf that describes where to mount the shim stock. Uphill is a misnomer. Water can easily enter no matter the incline of the car, though uphill would be worse . . .

Ensure your compartment drain is clear as well. That's the cheapest insurance there is.

CCC

Yes, the rubber seals, I was having a brain fade about terminology. Thanks! I'll be getting some of the seal fix to re adhere the seals and help keep water out better. I took advice from an earlier thread on a thread search and cleared checked the drain last Saturday. Was a little dusty, but clear. I also aired out the trunk's liner as it had been wet before and I just didn't want it to start smelling.

Thanks for the PDF!

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Yes, the rubber seals, I was having a brain fade about terminology. Thanks! I'll be getting some of the seal fix to re adhere the seals and help keep water out better. I took advice from an earlier thread on a thread search and cleared checked the drain last Saturday. Was a little dusty, but clear. I also aired out the trunk's liner as it had been wet before and I just didn't want it to start smelling.

Thanks for the PDF!

Sorry it's been a while. Fixed the fuel leak. Turned out to be tears in the cross over and a small crack in the left side tank near the cross over connector. Now I'm wondering about electric issues.

1.) First issue to develop was that the trunk would not close when raising or lowering the top. I can get it to do so, but I have to release the button and then press it again to get it to go. When I press the button to start the process, the stereo cuts out like it looses power. Same thing when I have to press the button a second time to get the trunk to shut. I thought it might have been a sensor issue, but then the following problems started happening in the last month.

2.)Right after the fuel tank was replaced, my fuel gauge got stuck at half way between 3/4 and 1/2 a tank on the dash. It's not the float, already checked that and already had the electrical connection replaced so it's not connectivity.

3.) The passenger side window will no longer roll up when holding the top closed function. It rolls down when the down function is held, but in that 10 second window where you can hold the button again to raise both windows, drivers side goes up, passenger side does not.

4.) The tonneau cover won't go down when in accessory mode (at least I believe that's what the little plastic cover is that raises up to allow the top to come up or go in before shutting the trunk) so the trunk won't shut. I turn on the engine and the cover will shut, but I'll have to press the button a second time to get it to continue going down.

5.) Electronic door opening button did not work today, had to manually open it. After I opened it manually it worked again.

I've been looking at the fuses and the relays under the dash to try and find something that may interact with all of these. I'm thinking that a component down there is bad, loose, or maybe even wiring is loosing connection/corroding (this car was unfortunately not taken very good care of with the last owner and I'm doing the best I can to give it the TLC it needs, lots of minor blemishes in the paint as well, but that's last on my list of things to do).

Thanks again for all your help it's been quite a ride getting this poor car back in top shape.

#1: Have you had a Re-Learn performed on your Folding Top Control module? I've had the same symptoms you describe: needing to press the Folding Top Control Switch to make the Rear Deck lid lower at the end of the cycle. A re-Learn always fixes it, but indicates a sensor is on the ragged edge. (You need a Tech 2 to do this or a dealer visit.) As for the infotainment cutting out (it either loses power or it doesn't, muting is different, so you need to be more specific with the symptoms) unless it's related to the Class 2 bus (which the Folding Top Shares) they aren't connected otherwise.

#2: How did you check the sender? Don't know how many miles you have, but the contacts get contaminated over time. Using Techron to keep them clean works well. I run a bottle through every quarter. I see you had the dreaded cracked tank. I hope it was fixed under the Emissions warranty (much longer than the standard warranty.)

#3: I never hold the button down to raise the windows after the cycle is complete; I just press it once. A Tech 2 scan will determine if the Door module is receiving the switch command. But just for sh!ts and grins, press it once and see what happens.

#4: Never run any Top Functions in ACC mode, it depletes the battery very fast. If it works with the engine running, there's your problem. It takes a lot of current to drive the pump. Just a few cycles (around three) can drain a fully-charged battery. Again, a Re-Learn may be warranted, but I'd suspect the battery if it works with the ignition running.

#5: You may have a faulty driver's side door switch. Luckily, this is one of the cheapest/easiest XLR repairs. (Five minutes to do, tops, unless you're all thumbs.) The switch costs less than $30 and it's held in place with two fasteners. Switch the pad with the passenger side door pad. If the problems moves, there you go! Because the driver's side door pad gets the most use, it is usually the first to go.

The BCM with fuses and relays is located under the passenger side toe board. There's one big honkin connector to it. Inspect under magnification and re-tighten. There's another fuse box under the hood. You can inspect these all day long. (Fuses are easy to check) but you have to have a Tech 2 and shop manuals if you want to have any hope of successfully troubleshooting an XLR.

I will probably be trading in my XLR, and selling my Tech 2, GM Service XLR Tech Service course, and GM shop manuals (including the very rare factory Folding Top troubleshooting, adjustment, repair, and alignment DVD) in two or three months. Check back then if you're interested and I'll offer you a great deal. Until then, keep those symptoms coming and good luck getting your baby back in shape!

CCC

The infotainment loses power briefly, it doesn't mute.
A mechanic checked the sender for me since he took care of the tank problem for me. Unfortunately I was a year and some months too late for the extended coverage. Even tried to call Cadillac and was told they'd try and get me payment assistance through the dealer I took it to, no dice. Cost me a bit since they didn't catch both problems in one go and I didn't have the time to do it myself with work invading my personal time.
I'll try the single press and see what happens, thanks.

I'll see what I can do about the remainder of this all. I figured a relearn would take care of the folding top and that sensors are probably in the mix of that but wasn't sure. I'll see about getting the Class 2 bus checked out as well to make sure there isn't any issue with it since I'm getting some of those cuts.

If I can afford the price you give, I will be more than happy to take all of that off your hands ^.^

Passenger Window Issue:

1) Does the normal Express Up/Down function work properly from both door switches?
2) Have you tried re-indexing and re-testing the passenger side window?

Fuel Sender Issue:

3) How was the fuel sender tested after the tank was reinstalled and the problem was discovered?
4) Why was the connector replaced?

Infotainment Glitch:

5) The infotainment system is the gateway between the GMLAN (high speed bus) and Class 2 bus. When it loses power, is it a display issue and/or audio issue?
6) Are the symptoms only apparent when the Folding Top is moving?

Tech 2 (and other goodies):

I'm wanting to sell everything for $1000. The scan tool is in like-new condition and comes with everything -CANDi module, cabling, 32M card and stowage case. I checked eBay and they're going for up to $2500, without all the other XLR-related documentation I have. Clones abound for less, but you take your chances. This is the Bosch/GM unit. If I have to split it up, the Service Course and Folding Top DVD are worth around $200 (Both are rare.) but can pay for themselves with the first repair. The XLR Tech course consists of two books, (introduction/operation and systems) and explain in depth the XLR architecture and maintenance philosophy (using the Tech 2.) The systems course is excellent because it's concise and has all the highlights/specs for each system. The Service Manuals take that knowledge and go deeper. Anyway, I'm two months out from selling everything but since you expressed interest first, you're at the top of the list before I offer it up on the XLR-specific forums.

CCC

1&2.) Both switches on both doors work for the passenger side window. I was thinking of re-indexing the window, but I hadn't gotten around to it as of yet. I'll let you know how it goes when I do.

3.) I filled up the tank and it had the issue with the fuel gauge, when I asked the mechanic he said he'd try and see if it was something he had done and fix it under warranty for labor and parts.
4.) Which is where the replacement of the connector comes in. He said that it had some play and could be causing the issue. It obviously wans't the cause. I'm disappointed in the mechanic I have. Went to him for years, but he's losing his touch and doesn't seem to know as much as he touted about this vehicle.

5.) When it loses power it's only an audio issue.
6.) Only occurs when I press the button initially and when I release the button to press it again, and once again when I press the button (so any time the button is engaged or disengaged). However, it only loses power when the mechanism starts working.

Thanks for keeping me in mind first! I should be able to come up with that kind of scratch by the time you want to get rid of it all. I've done the research as well as of March and really appreciate the deal on all of it.

Re-indexing the windows takes less than a minute.

The 2004 has an 18.5 gallon capacity split between two tanks.

You appear to have at least two separate problems, a fuel sender issue and something going on with the Class 2 buss when the Folding Top Control switch is depressed affecting the infotainment unit.

First off, is the mechanic servicing your vehicle an independent or GM-certified XLR tech? All dealership techs are GM-certified, but XLR-certified techs are getting scarce. Before I'd replace a suspect connector, I would jumper the pins and see if the problem changed, or at least wiggle the connector and have someone check the display. But I wouldn't try any of these things until I'd scanned the system with a Tech 2 first.

I'm still a little confused by the infotainment symptoms you're describing. Your last description stated "when it loses power, it's an audio-only issue." Are we talking about audio muting or complete the going dark and the head unit reinitializing? This makes a difference as it could be amp-related. So just to be clear, if the navigation display is present and you cycle the switch, does anything change on the head unit?

CC