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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I recently secured financing for the purchase of a 2015 ATS. Including my fairly hefty down payment I will have roughly 40K for this purchase. Using the "Build your own" feature on the Cadillac website I've chosen the
2015 ATS 2.5L, Luxury, Safety and Security, CUE+Nav. Since I use my car a lot for work, having something reliable, with decent gas mileage, and using regular gas is a plus.

1) Is the 2.5L a good choice or should I consider the 2.0T?

2) I rely on the Nav to find schools and parks for my work. Are people happy with the Nav system? or should I use my own Garman? Can I get CUE without Nav?

3) Are there any other options I should consider? How about the extras like extended warranty

I bought the Consumer Reports New Car Price Report, and it tells me I should offer $37.8K. The sticker price is in the neighborhood of 40K+. For those with experience with Cadillac dealers, is it possible to negotiate off the sticker price for this car?

I'm excited but scared to death hoping I make all the right decisions in this process.

Thank you
 

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ATS 2.0 M6 FE3
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1) Is the 2.5L a good choice or should I consider the 2.0T?
The power on the 2.0T is a "nice have", but its not a requirement. I'd say try and take a 2.5 on an onramp vs a 2.0T and see what you feel more comfortable with.
2) I rely on the Nav to find schools and parks for my work. Are people happy with the Nav system? or should I use my own Garman? Can I get CUE without Nav?
The Nav is okay but its not perfect - personally I think a good smartphone is always better, but I do use it. Good news is it is pretty decent on warning about which lane to be in on the highway for splits/exits/etc. If you get the heads up display it puts the nav details on the windshield as well.
3) Are there any other options I should consider? How about the extras like extended warranty
Personally, having the LED "foglights" and light-up door handles are awesome features that make the car "pop", but going up in trim adds cost. I got the Premium 2.0T for that very purpose.
I bought the Consumer Reports New Car Price Report, and it tells me I should offer $37.8K. The sticker price is in the neighborhood of 40K+. For those with experience with Cadillac dealers, is it possible to negotiate off the sticker price for this car?
Yes and yes. Especially if you can find one off the lot or a 2014 that has cash on the hood. Some dealers are offering several grand off sticker as right now the ATS has excess production. FWIW without rebates/cash off, the "dealer cost" of an ATS is usually couple grand less than sticker.

Be open - sometimes certain configurations have more rebates than others, and you may find a car on a lot with more options that has a better price.

Last two questions are do you care about AWD and/or a split folding rear seat? Lower trims just have a "port" to access the trunk from the cabin, higher trims have a split folding rear seat.[/QUOTE]
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you, roadpie4u, for the quick reply. I really don't see the need for AWD here in California, and split folding rear seat doesn't make a difference either way. My other option is going with the 2.0T and the performance package, which from my understanding, includes most of the Luxury options. I agree about the LED fog lights and door handles. I love that kind of "pop"! Unfortunately I think that may be out of my price range.
 

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none now, but will look at CT5. 2017 Lincoln MKZ 3.0T. Former 14 ATS 3.6
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Try to spring for the turbo if you can. It's a lot more performance for not a lot more money.
 

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'16 CTS V-Sport Black/'16 CTS Luxury w/V-Sport Pkg White
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a plain performance get you all your Adds (nav excluded) plus the turbo for $43,655 this is before rebates and negotiating very good bang for your buck plus you will gain all the lights, this is the ATS at its best looks wise....you will lose the folding rear seats though
 

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2013 3.6 RWD Premium - 2006 BMW Z4M
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I agree with the above.

Does the $40k you have for the purchase need to include tax and registration?

Nav. is ok, not as good as my phone but more convenient to use if going longer distances.

I wouldn't buy an extended warranty, especially not now. You will finance it, and who know if you will still have the car by the time it kicks in (life changes, car crashes, etc.). Add in them pushing them so hard because they come out ahead and I don't agree with them.
 

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For what it's worth, you mentioned using regular gas would be a plus for you; it is highly recommended to use premium in the 2.0 engine. 2.5 and 3.6 use regular. I'm guessing you could get a fairly well optioned 3.6 luxury in the low 40's right now without much haggling.
 

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Have you priced the used ones? I just picked up a 2013 premium 2.0t with 10,000 miles for $28,280. Why sink so much of your cash into something that is going to depreciate so fast? If you have $40,000 cash you would be so much better off buying a lightly used car and put the rest of the money somewhere else. The car I bought was mint. I see absolutely no reason to buy a new one unless you enjoy throwing away money.
 

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Have you priced the used ones? I just picked up a 2013 premium 2.0t with 10,000 miles for $28,280. Why sink so much of your cash into something that is going to depreciate so fast? If you have $40,000 cash you would be so much better off buying a lightly used car and put the rest of the money somewhere else. The car I bought was mint. I see absolutely no reason to buy a new one unless you enjoy throwing away money.
I agree and I took a hit buying the thing new. ugh
 

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2010 CTS-V M6 and 2013 ATS 3.6L Premium
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The 2.5 is slow but if that's not a big concern for you it's good on gas and reliable. If you can find some leftover 14s, they are making big deals on them. You could get close to $10K off MSRP from what I've seen. Might be able to go up in trim if that is of interest.
 

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I agree and I took a hit buying the thing new. ugh
I feel your pain. I bough a brand new 2011 Taurus sho. I paid over $40k and traded it in 15 months later for $26,000. Huge waste of money. I will never buy a new car again. For the ATS you can get a new semi loaded new car, or a fully loaded lightly used car for less money. For me it was a no brainer.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I agree with the above.

Does the $40k you have for the purchase need to include tax and registration?

Thanks all for your response. Lots of good tips. I'm financed for 33K with a down payment of 11K, so it looks like the dealership is factoring in tax and registration. Unfortunately my financing is through the dealership so they know exactly how much I have to work with. I drive 20k+ miles a year so the 2.5L with regular gas is attractive since the gas prices in Ca get pretty ridiculous. However I really like the "pop" factor mentioned above with premium package, so the 2.0T might be worth considering. I will also look into a pre-owned certified ATS or CTS from 2014 and see if I can find one with the premium package, but I would only consider one with LOW mileage. This might be a lame question, but what is considered low
mileage for these cars anyways? I plan to keep the car for at least 5 years.
 

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Skitzo, you should go read that gas mileage thread in this forum. Gives you an idea of what everyone is getting with what drivetrain in real world scenarios. With that info I was pretty much sold on the AWD 3.6, its mileage is no worse than my WRX (20-24) but it uses regular instead of premium (another benefit to the 2.5 and 3.6). I went with the 3.6 because of the power, I can't stand slogging it along, I need the get up and go. I highly recommend a used vehicle as well, I recently bought a 2014 Premium AWD 3.6 with 10k miles for 30k and picked up an extended 6 year warranty for a couple extra grand because electronics go bad and this car is loaded with them. I'm not so much worried about the mechanical stuff 4-6 years from now, I'm worried about that $1500 random electronic control module.

And this is just my opinion but turbo'd motors are picky motors. When there's a thread on blown 2.0T ATS motors (some multiple times) you know that motor has to be picky. I'm not saying that as a negative, but it's something to think about. I've owned two turbo cars and blew one motor and a couple turbos so I can say from experience that turbo motors are picky. :) Personally I would not pick the 2.0T as a commuter car, performance car yes, commuter car, no. Someone suggested it earlier, but go test drive all 3 motors if you can. To me the 2.5 was depressing while the 3.6 was just perfect. Never drove the 2.0T because I wanted an NA car this time.
 

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Considering this is is used for work and not PLAY go with the 3.6....

IIRC Nav isn't the best... updating can be a PITA... For few $$$ you can get a new GPS every couple of years and move it from car to car. My Garmin and Tom Tom have Lifetime updates.

To me CUE is over priced.

Extended warranties.... in most cases are money makers for the dealer. READ THE FINE PRINT... Some say what is covered and others say what is not covered. IE - if a not covered item fails and causes a covered item to fail your screwed.

Price... My ATS was a base model with no bells or whistles. Sticker was $37,015 and got it for $32,615 or $34,970 out the door including Tax, Title & Lic
 

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Thanks all for your response. Lots of good tips. I'm financed for 33K with a down payment of 11K, so it looks like the dealership is factoring in tax and registration. Unfortunately my financing is through the dealership so they know exactly how much I have to work with. I drive 20k+ miles a year so the 2.5L with regular gas is attractive since the gas prices in Ca get pretty ridiculous. However I really like the "pop" factor mentioned above with premium package, so the 2.0T might be worth considering. I will also look into a pre-owned certified ATS or CTS from 2014 and see if I can find one with the premium package, but I would only consider one with LOW mileage. This might be a lame question, but what is considered low
mileage for these cars anyways? I plan to keep the car for at least 5 years.
Did you try a local bank or credit union? If you have good credit I can bet you will find a better rate than the dealer is offering you. My loan was for 3.09% through PNC, and a local credit union was 2.99%. The dealer was advertising higher rates than that.

I also drive about 25,000 miles a year and still bought the 2.0T. I've owned several turbo vehicles so there was no way I could step down to the 2.5. Premium gas is only a few extra dollars a tank so I don't mind the extra cost.
 

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I also agree with shopping for a better rate with a loan through someone else. Just worth checking, no different than shopping for the car. The bank or credit union loan also lets you shop everywhere.

Also them knowing what you are approved for should have not bearing on the negotiation. No different than buying a house "we are approved for $400k but aren't willing to pay more than $350k for the house we are looking at". Or "while approved for $40k for a car I don't want to pay more than $38k for this car". Having the ability to pay more shouldn't change what you are willing to pay for a certain item.
 

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this obsession with regular fuel savings vs premium is crazy right now that savings is 20 cents per gallon at 20,000 miles you are talking only $133 dollars savings.....i get that any savings is positive, but not in the context of knowing that i was just over a dollar a month away from having a powerful motor with virtually the same fuel economy 21/33 for 2.5 vs 21/30 for 2.0T ...... i would rather make my wife kick me in the groin the 1st of every month than deny myself a nicer car over $1 a month if we were poor and that dollar meant food on the table that is another story but were not were talking luxury cars here...OP could buy a car outright just for the downpayment...my advice is you stepped up to above average cars get over average car gas thinking ....you are buying what you want, not what you need...if on the other hand that dollar is more precious to you than your pleasure with the car, that is why we have choices

unless you are getting a crazy low factory rate like 0%, 1% or 2% maybe even 3% go in with your own financing, you are now a cash buyer to them, and you will be less profitable so they wont want to negotiate as much :-( so use either costco or your credit unions buying service the credit union can be a one stop shop they will pre negotiate an amazing price and give you a financing deal...if you don't deal with credit union call a few to find out car financing options otherwise use your current bank get a great rate then go to costco and get a great price on the car
 

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I don't think the fuel mileage of the 2.5 is all that great. I average about 25mpg per tank and that's about 70% highway. If I happen to do some extra city driving it drops to 23.5 easily. I've had the 2.0T and 3.6 for loaner cars. The 3.6 will be my next choice when my lease is up. The acceleration is so smooth and the mileage isn't all that bad.
The nav is great unless you use the voice commands. For me this feature is useless. It just seems to come up with random POI's, noting close to what I ask for. I just use my on star app and send the destination to the in dash nav. Or you could have on star do the same thing for you.
 

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Thank you, roadpie4u, for the quick reply. I really don't see the need for AWD here in California, and split folding rear seat doesn't make a difference either way. My other option is going with the 2.0T and the performance package, which from my understanding, includes most of the Luxury options. I agree about the LED fog lights and door handles. I love that kind of "pop"! Unfortunately I think that may be out of my price range.
It may not be out of your price range if you look for a used 2014 or 2013, unless the new front end is important to you. Theres a quite a few lease returns popping up on lots in California. Also, dont forget to check out Hertz sales if you wanna go the used route.

I got a base 2.0 w white diamond paint, spoiler, cue system and cd player for around 22k.

Btw you probably dont need to look for a certified pre owned right now because most, if not all, used ATSs will be under factory warranty still. The powertrain is 70k miles and bumper to bumper is 50k, i believe.

Happy hunting and dont rush. ATS shopping is confusing.
 
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