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2000 Deville
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45 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I own a 2000 Deville. I noticed in front of the car on the passenger side, small drops of oil on the ground on the passenger side once in a while about the size of a half dollar. Some months I see it, some I don't. I decided to remove the bottom shroud for a closer inspection. I noticed that a pressure hose coming from the back of the air compressor was wet with oil. I traced the other end of the hose up to a connection to the air condensor. I also noticed that the drivers vent side was not very cold but the passenger side was very cold. A friend informed me that if the oil leaked out, the a/c would not get cold. Last year the rear a/c also started blowing warm. Can the oil from the air conditioner be leaking and the line still be cold, which it is? if so, will the compressor seize up if all the oil leaks out? Can I replace this oil leaking hose without releasing the freon? The line that holds the freon connects to the condensor but is seprate from the the cold freon line coming from the actuator. I just don't want to be driving along and the compressor goes and costing me a fortune to replace and recharge the system. If anyone can shed some light on my problem I would be deeply grateful. I don't want to take it somewhere and get ripped off. Thanks again.
 

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2000 DEVILLE,2001 STS.
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122 Posts
If you have oil leaking out of your hose,you are also leaking refrigerant. The leak is why the drivers side is now blowing warm. You CANNOT replace the line until the refrigerant is recovered by a shop. Any reputable shop will not charge you a fortune, but if your compressor seizes from lack of lubrication it will cost you an arm and a leg. Pull the a/c fuse or unplug the compressor even with the a/c off the compressor will occasionaly cycle to lubricate the O-rings and keep them from drying out. It's a crap shoot if your a/c shuts down due to a open low pressure switch due to the leak or if your compressor dies first. My advice is to talk to some people who have had their a/c repaired and get their opinion on the shop they used. Get an estimate in writing and get it fixed before you end up paying a whole lot more.
 

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Sedan de Ville, CTS
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4,764 Posts
Stay miles away from companies with ads that advertise a/c checks for almost nothing. They will get you one way or another.

Some of your Caddy mechanics might moonlight at home too. Don't ask that question in front of managers.
 

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Cadillac Deville 1990
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266 Posts
Or just do the repairs yourself. There is a very nice A/C trouble shoot video at autozone for $7 nothing if you think about it. As for the leak yea you will have to disconnect the line and most likely it will be your seal but not sure I see it. Do what mramazingman said and have your A/C freon recovered next to nothing. Then open the line and replace the seals. Since you have the system empty and you can work on it I would replace all the seal but do it quickly cause they recommend you replace the accumilator everytime you open your system but when replacing it you have to open the new one anyway so I figured you can reuse the old one as long as it is not open for long. Also now that you have it open you may want to flush your lines and condensor but do not flush your compressor or accumilator. Once you have everything back in place vaccum the system out and fill with freon.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.
 

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2000 Deville
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45 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I took it to a shop and they did the work. The line I mentioned in my original post was busted. They replaced the line ($129) Vacumed and refilled with freon ($129) plus labor ($85) The reason the drivers side was blowing warm air was because it was low on freon. The rear passenger a/c still blows warm, but that's a story for another day. I don't know how long the line was leaking. Maybe a year. Just thought Caddy's had bad A/C. The weather is still pretty warm and I didn't want to chance screwing it up and having it leak again by working on it myself. I've learned that working on some A/C's can be a nightmare, especially when trying to find a leak. I was going to perform the work myself, but am pretty apprehensive when it comes to working on newer cars (I only toy with 60's, 70's, and some eighties vehicles) Thanks for the advice though I deeply appreciated it.
 
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