[ga_etc]

The A/C in my Eldorado has been acting strange the past couple of days. I first noticed it yesterday. A friend and I were going to get something to eat for lunch and I decided that it was warm enough to need the air. When I turned it on everything acted as normal, but the air didn't get cold. It finally started cooling about the time we got to where we were going. About 10 mins of driving before it started working. After coming out of the restaurant the air cooperated. Then a little later in the day it did it again. Turned the air on and only got warm air for about 15 mins. After that it was fine the rest of the day. Went to town earlier today and had the same problem. When it does start cooling the air works great. I think that the compressor isn't engaging for some reason. Anyone have any ideas?

I have had the climate control set on 65 and Auto for the most part. The second fan for the radiator is kicking on so the system knows that the air is supposed to be running.

 

[greg-sls]

It might just need a top off on freon. So far, there are no messages from the ACM, right?

 

[ga_etc]

Haven't pulled the codes yet. Need to do it soon and check it out. I've been a little distracted recently.

 

[greg-sls]

Usually, you will get a "low refrigerant level" on the DIC but that will actually cut out the compressor.

 

[ga_etc]

No notices on the DIC. Codes are:
B1341-air mix door two movment fault
B1327-vehicle system voltage below 9.0 volt
P0463-fuel level sensor circuit high voltage
P0603-control module long term memory reset
P1520-Transmission range switch circuit
P1617-engine oil level switch circuit.

 

[greg-sls]

Many of your issues could be the result of a dying battery or alternator. (message #2). My concern is message #1 which seems to be a common problem on this site today! Another member here might also have air mix door problems. I've fixed both my air mix actuators, but on my 97, it is relatively easy once the glove box is removed. 98 and up have a different system though...it's one unit according to member Danbuc. It still sounds to me like you could use a freon top off, but is one side getting colder faster than the other (e.g. passenger vs. driver's side)? When was the last time you added freon?

 

[Ranger]

I think that air mix door is your problem.

 

[Raze]

if your voltage is too low, the A/C system does not work properly, this just happened to me when my latest alternator bit the dust, hence why I wrote that post a week ago about how important your Alternator is to the whole setup, a dying battery is alot easier to spot and diagnose, a bad alternator is far harder because to properly test it you need to remove it, those hand held tests only tell you voltage output, not current. Most alternators never last me longer than 2 years, that's for a reman, the brand new ones I've gotten 3-4years. They're just too exposed to excessive heat, oil leaks, and water. Most cars mount them high up on the front of the engine for a reason, due to packaging, GM thought it would be a good idea to put it right next to the exhaust manifold behind a section of the radiator that doesn't get flow, under the valve cover edge where leaks are very common, and in-line with the oil cooler line on the pass side of the tank so when that leaks or blows you'll coat your alternator which isn't good for it either...

 

[ga_etc]

I posted all the codes in a hurry before I had to run out the door for work. All of them are listed as history. The air mix door is on the passenger side and it's had that problem since I've had the car. None of the codes give me a tip off as to why my a/c is acting the way it is. It's acting like the clutch on the compressor is sticking in the disengaged position. When the compressor does finally kick in the air works just as it should. I know it's not the voltage code. That happened shortly after I bought the car. The battery that was in it was about shot and the voltage would drop over night. Any other ideas?

 

[Raze]

have your battery and alternator checked, if your DIC doesn't already have battery voltage output as an option, search the board on how to mod the IPC? value to display it and take a look. I vaguely remember something in the FSM that if the voltage is too low it disengages the compressor clutch to prevent excessive load on the engine to keep it running. I know you don't 'think' you have a problem in the electrical department, but check and make sure. Otherwise your refridgerant is low, or your compressor is shot, or one of a number of other problems has occured...

 

[ga_etc]

I really don't think it is a voltage issue. The volts hold steady according to the DIC and it has a new battery, bout 6 months old. I guess I need to have the compressor looked at.

 

[greg-sls]

You've tried setting the CC for 60 degrees...I think that's as low as it will go. You should hear the compressor cycling very clearly if the clutch is working. Once it starts to cycle and the air is cold then maybe you have enough freon in the system. You did not mention if you or the prior owner ever added freon and when.

 

[93eldodave]

Vacume leak? or are the doors electric? do the vents work ok?will it blow dash/vents/floor when you tell it to? if not you may ave a leak..

 

[ga_etc]

I bought it from a car lot so I have no idea if the previous owner ever had to add freon. I haven't since I've owned it. It's about due for an oil change so I'll see what the dealership will charge me to check it for me. It's not the vents. They all work properly.

 

[ga_etc]

I added a can of freon to the system a little while ago when I got the A/C to come on again. The gauge was showing right at 55psi after taking a full can. Hopefully it will help it. I guess I'll just have to wait and see.

 

[greg-sls]

You'll know if the compressor starts to cycle normally again. Check your ACM codes and see if you still get the air mix door error ("C" current and not "H" history). If you still get a B1341, you have another problem to solve.