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seville SLS
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Discussion Starter #1
I just replaced my battery and everything seemed fine. The next day I start the car and the display indicates low battery and a buch of other messages. Also a bunch of idiot lights stay on. The car started fine but all these warnings. Anybody know whats going on?

Does this have anything to do with that sensor on the positive battery lead?
 

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seville SLS
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Discussion Starter #5
Jim,
Thanks, cleared codes. All seemed ok for about 10sec then all the warnings returned. both cables tight, ant other suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I looked up codes, seems system voltage is too high. How can that happen? I replaced the battery with the Delco replacement battery.
 

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'98 STS (RIP @ 206,xxx miles)
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B1328 - Vehicle system voltage is greater than 15.9 volts
This could indicate a failed alternator voltage regulator. Further testing is indicated; aftermarket parts stores will be happy to do the testing for you (free). I would drive the car as little as possible until you investigate this and correct this situation.

B1982 - Device Power Circuit High
More of the above.

P0563 - System Voltage High
More of the above.

B1310 - Ambient Air Temperature Sensor Failure
Not a factor here.
 

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seville SLS
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Discussion Starter #10
Jim,
Thanks for your help, I will try pep boys tomorrow (I bought battery from them). Hopefully they will run a diag for me. Thanks again!
 

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'98 STS (RIP @ 206,xxx miles)
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IF your alternator has rolled craps, resist the temptation to install an aftermarket rebuild. The aftermarket rebuilds just do not stand the test. And yours is a water-cooled alternator; that makes the R&R just a little harder.

Bite the bullet and use either a GM/ACDelco new or rebuild.
 

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seville SLS
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Discussion Starter #12
lol, you read my mind. I was going to go aftermarket! Thanks for the pointer. I dont need any headaches so I will bite the bullet. Damn, $139 battery now a $350 Alternator. Its killing me!
 

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seville SLS
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Discussion Starter #13
Here is another clue that may make sense to you. I had no clear indications of any electrical problems. I was just disconnecting my battery to take the air intake apart to clean the throttlebody. When I went to loosen the positive terminal the connection to the battery just broke off and acid started leaking. That is why I replaced tha battery. BUT, the day before the radio started acting flakey, I would get an occasional load pop noise out of the speakers and after it popped the music would no longer play. The radio lights were on but no sound. The pops would continue every once in a while.
 

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'98 STS (RIP @ 206,xxx miles)
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Haw.

Your choice; eat and walk or go hungry while you ride.

If you can be without the car for a few days while UPS delivers the part, I have been more than happy buying parts from

http://www.gmotors.com/contact.asp
Brasington Cadillac-Saab
Parts Department
2001 N.W. 13th St.
Gainesville, FL 32601
Bill, Marty, Chris (and possibly others)
352-378-5301
800-535-4608
Have your VIN available.

Mention that you are asking for web-sales price quotes for out-of-state shipment (if you live outside of Florida. Sales tax is the issue).
 

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Here is another clue that may make sense to you. I had no clear indications of any electrical problems. I was just disconnecting my battery to take the air intake apart to clean the throttlebody. When I went to loosen the positive terminal the connection to the battery just broke off and acid started leaking. That is why I replaced tha battery.
Cracked battery cases are frequently the end game of failure to use the proper torque value on the cable bolts. Sadly preventable, but true.
BUT, the day before the radio started acting flakey, I would get an occasional load pop noise out of the speakers and after it popped the music would no longer play. The radio lights were on but no sound. The pops would continue every once in a while.
An experienced aftermarket parts house guy with the proper equipment might be able to show you that the alternator voltage regulator is/has failed and that might (?) explain other symptoms you have experienced. An oscilloscope is priceless in cases like yours.

Meanwhile, you are hoping that the damage is limited.
 

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seville SLS
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Discussion Starter #16
Te battery broke while I tried to loosen the positive cable. I barely applied any pressure to the nut and bam the metal on the battery popped right off. That should not happen but then again that was the original battery (8 yrs old)!

All this stuff is DC, correct? How will an oscilloscope help???
 

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Te battery broke while I tried to loosen the positive cable. I barely applied any pressure to the nut and bam the metal on the battery popped right off. That should not happen but then again that was the original battery (8 yrs old)!
Someone at some point in the previous 8 years over-torqued that bolt. At the factory or at a dealership or fill-in-the blank.
All this stuff is DC, correct? How will an oscilloscope help???
Yes, it's all supposed to be DC (with no more than 0.5 to 0.7 volts of AC ripple allowed). An o'scope allows you to see and measure in real time (right now!!) the absolute voltage levels and the ripple voltage.

Ripple voltage is a measure of the condition of the diodes in the alternator. Under the most extreme conditions you could imagine, if several of your alternator diodes have failed shorted, the car "could have" been subjected to AC voltage levels approaching 25 volts.

Ouch.
 

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seville SLS
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Discussion Starter #18
Jim,

You are probably correct about the torquing. I will drive directly to a place that can check the alt in the morning. Thanks again for your help.
 
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