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99 Deville
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Discussion Starter #1
Hey so apparently the oil pump in my dads 99 Deville has gone, the mechanic said it costs about the same do drop in a new engine as it does to replace the oil pump so thats what he wanted to do.... Load of crap? Ive done a little engine work before, anyone have anything to say on the matter? Any documents detailing the procedure?
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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The oil pump on the N* is wrapped around the crankshaft snout, inside the front chaincase. It can be replaced from the wheelwell area, but it's pretty labor-intensive. The mechanic needs to follow the GM Service Manual procedure. Crank balancer bolt torque is critical to proper oil pump operation.

If the oil pump went out, did the engine seize ? If so, it's new/rebuild engine time.

You could subscribe the car to www.alldatadiy.com to see what you're up against, and the subscription will come in handy dozens of times.......
 

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99 Deville
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Discussion Starter #3
Engine has not seized yet. So the engine doesn't need to be pulled for this? Thanks for the link I'll check that out. I've decided against putting my extra 5.7L Hemi in. She isn't fond of FWD
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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Hmmmmmmm.......What gives you or your mechanic the impression that the oil pump has packed it in ??? IF there's a flickering oil pressure light at idle, there may be a very simple solution.........
 

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99 Deville
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Discussion Starter #7
What could this easy solution be. Im not around the car, I'm in school in another state. Ill ask him if its a light at idle
 

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94 Eldorado, and a 99 ETC
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Higher weight oil was the simple solution I believe... I'm not positive if that was what Sub had in mind though.
 

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2010 DTS
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87,413 Posts
The oil pumps are pretty reliable. I suspect what Sub was getting at it the oil pressure switch on the oil filter adapter. You could either plumb in a pressure gauge and see what your oil pressure actually is or just take a chance and swap in a new switch. That would be much cheaper and easier than replacing a pump.
 

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1997 ETC (GAVE TO STEPSON 2011), 2000 DTS (RIP)
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Ranger and Sub are right - usually, it's the oil pressure switch - cost under $10, so personally, I think it's easier to replace it than to bother setting up a gauge.

If the oil pump is shot - pretty unusual, you will need to take off the crankshaft damper/pulley, timing case cover, and I think drop that side of the cradle down some for access. I can't remember where the pump is in relation to the crank to intermediate gears and chain - that stuff might have to come off also.
 

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2001 Deville DTS
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102 Posts
its really not that bad,oil pump is only 3 bolts, remove accesory belt(the big one) take off whatevr is blocking timing cover(i think a tensioner or maybe idler bearing) then the acces panel on pass wheel well. Remove 3 cradel bolts, lock the flywheel and remove crankshaft bolt, then the pulley with 3 jaw puller. Remove the 15 bolts(10 MM) on timing cover.Pull timing cover and oil pump is right there with 3 bolts. When reinstalling be sure to tighten 89 in. pounds in sequence then torque an additional 35 degrees in sequence. Sequence is middle bolt first, right bolt second and left bolt 3rd.

hope that helps and good luck!
 

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1997 ETC (GAVE TO STEPSON 2011), 2000 DTS (RIP)
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its really not that bad,oil pump is only 3 bolts, remove accesory belt(the big one) take off whatevr is blocking timing cover(i think a tensioner or maybe idler bearing) then the acces panel on pass wheel well. Remove 3 cradel bolts, lock the flywheel and remove crankshaft bolt, then the pulley with 3 jaw puller. Remove the 15 bolts(10 MM) on timing cover.Pull timing cover and oil pump is right there with 3 bolts. When reinstalling be sure to tighten 89 in. pounds in sequence then torque an additional 35 degrees in sequence. Sequence is middle bolt first, right bolt second and left bolt 3rd.

hope that helps and good luck!
Piece of cake
 

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2005 SRX; 2004 Deville DTS; 1999 Seville STS; 2010 DTS;
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156 Posts
its really not that bad,oil pump is only 3 bolts, remove accesory belt(the big one) take off whatevr is blocking timing cover(i think a tensioner or maybe idler bearing) then the acces panel on pass wheel well. Remove 3 cradel bolts, lock the flywheel and remove crankshaft bolt, then the pulley with 3 jaw puller. Remove the 15 bolts(10 MM) on timing cover.Pull timing cover and oil pump is right there with 3 bolts. When reinstalling be sure to tighten 89 in. pounds in sequence then torque an additional 35 degrees in sequence. Sequence is middle bolt first, right bolt second and left bolt 3rd.

hope that helps and good luck!
Wouldn't you have to drop the engine for that?
 

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'99 SLS, '05 Deville, '87 Porsche 944
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Wouldn't you have to drop the engine for that?
I don't see why - there have been several people that have done HG's with the engine in the car and have opened the timing cover to set the timing.

Having said that, I wouldn't want to do it - seems like it would be an incredible PITA to do in the car, but some people are just gluttons for punishment.
 

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1997 ETC (GAVE TO STEPSON 2011), 2000 DTS (RIP)
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Wouldn't you have to drop the engine for that?
Drop the right side of the cradle down enough for access - lost of other things also - I think that's a pretty big deal, but it's not for some people - getting old I guess
 
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