[tsm3rdz]

Hello all, I've been lurking and researching for a while but my stubborn butt is out of options and need you guys' help!

First off I'm a backyard mechanic who was ase cert. a few years back when I worked at a shop so I'm decently well versed in this stuff but this one's above me. I've got a 98 sts with 209,000 miles. I bought it with 190,000 on it for $200 with blown head gaskets. After researching my options on here I decided to go with the suregrip studs and have had no problems whatsoever there- what a great product! My buddy and I pulled the motor out the top (for all you naysayers who say it cant be done that way) and we had it done in 2 weekends, went pretty smooth. But anyway, my problem now is the infamous stall at idle after the car is warmed up. Does it about half the time at stop signs/lights, and it will do it when you slow down for a turn sometimes. It will also stall in park after it is warmed up, also rather randomly. The car accelerates and cruises very smooth, just the slightly rough idle and annoying stall. The only code it ever sets is P1599, stall or near stall detected-that's helpful

After reading on here I have pulled and cleaned the t.b. and iac, checked my fpr and my fuel pressure(42 at idle, 46 with vacuum line pulled of fpr) checked my maf and intake hose(clean, no cracks or tears in hose). I understand from reading on here that the ckp's on mine are not the bad mexican one's and if they were failing they would throw a code, correct? I have not pulled and cleaned the egr, also figuring that would throw a code if were malfunctioning enough to cause the stall? I don't think it is ignition related because of the lack of a missfire code. I have checked repeatadly for a vacuum leak and have found none. I am about ready to take the car to a shop, which goes against everthing I believe in as a car guy I am tired of the wife complaining about it and wanting a new car, so please, please give me any and all opinions and ideas!

Thanks in advance for you help,
Ben

 

[Ranger]

I understand from reading on here that the ckp's on mine are not the bad mexican one's and if they were failing they would throw a code, correct?

Correct, key word being should. Doesn't always happen on the 2000+ engines with the bad CKP sensors.

I have not pulled and cleaned the egr, also figuring that would throw a code if were malfunctioning enough to cause the stall?

A sticking EGR should and usually does set a DTC and as you well know would cause a stall if stuck open. Wouldn't hurt to clean it.

Have you checked the manifold over pressurization valve behind the P/S pump? If it is stuck open it would cause a vacuum leak, though if so it usually squeals pretty loud.

 

[JimD]

.... so please, please give me any and all opinions and ideas!

Thanks in advance for you help,
Ben

Been there done that although mine was not stalling half the time.

My cure was to remove the chassis harness connector from the sensors and apply a liberal volume of contact cleaner.

In the case where the engine has been out, I would also inspect the chassis wire harness for kinks or pinched areas.

 

[tsm3rdz]

Thanks guys for the quick reply's! I will be out in the garage tomorrow night so I will clean the egr, and that is good thinking on the chassis harness, although I realize now that I didn't put in my original post that the stall has only been happening the last 2-3000 miles, but I will certainly look it over.

So I drove it to work today to do a little research, (my wife usually drive's it) didn't die on the way there, 12 miles, died twice on the way home. I watched the tach as best I could and when it ends up stalling, you are slowing down, rpms drop to 7-800, than they dip to 500 for a split second before it dies. If you are quick you can give it some gas at the 500 mark, it will chug just for a second and than take off like normal, otherwise it stalls. Put in in N, starts right back up and runs fine. Hope this helps, thanks again!

Ben

 

[Ranger]

I wonder if you could have an intermittent TCC solenoid? If it does not disengage, it's like trying to stop a standard trans without using the clutch. The disengage switch is one of two at the top of the brake pedal. It might be adjustable. If so, adjust it out a bit so it disengages sooner. That said, you should get a "TCC Solenoid Stuck On" DTC if it fails to disengage, but stranger things have happened and it worth looking into.

 

[tsm3rdz]

Thanks for the reply ranger! I had thought about the tcc solenoid early on but I didn't think about an intermintent failure- good thinkin there! Most of my tcc sol. failure experience comes from the old gm fwd. 3sp auto, as those were notorious for going out. When they went, they went and the car would die every stop. I don't know how many of those I have unplugged over the years. Anyhow I'll check that pedal switch tonight also. Thanks again.

Ben