The ac/heater blower quit working on my 98 eldorado with 70k miles (just bought it last week and its in great shape). We put a hotwire directly to motor and it doesn’t work. Mechanic wants 200 labor and Cadillac quoted 379 for the motor. Are there other blowers that interchange and can I do this myself (intermediate ability)? Looks like valve cover has to come off for the blades to clear.
98 eldo blower woes
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I have to do the same exact job on my 94. Here's the link to my thread. Click the link in Rangers post (post #2). He has a very detailed description of how to do it.
Click here to see my thread on this topic.
Click here to see my thread on this topic.
Thats a good deal I just had my done for $140. You should be able to find a motor under 250. The mechanic said that it was a b&^%h to get in but i don't remember him sayin anything about removing the valve cover he said it was all wires that had to be disconnected. I believe it took him around 2-3 hours. Either way i dropped it off at about 10 this morning and got it back before 2. oh yeah i have a 97 STS and the dealer quoted me a price of around 650
I haven't done mine yet. I still gotta order the parts. It's not really that urgent for me, mainly because I still need to get the a/c compressor fixed. Also because it doesn't snow where I live.dougtune said:
The blower motors for Cadillac's (with built in control module) will not work when a direct power source is conneced to the motor anyway. The control module is internal to the fan motor and relys on computer input for signal control. If that part is messed up, which normally is the problem, then the fan motor will not work at all.
Yes, a lot of contortion is required to remove and install a new unit.
Yes, a lot of contortion is required to remove and install a new unit.
The lead plugging to the blower has 3 prongs, elsewhere on the forum someone said one end should always read 12v, the oter end is ground, and middle is variable voltage based on blower speed. On mine the end terminial has 12 volts, but the middle lead has 0 voltage reguardless of blower speed or blower on/off. Now Im not sure it is teh blower that is out Can I put 12 volts to middle and end prong to test blower? Or can someone tell me how to properly diagnose blower outage?
OK, another a seach for "blower diagnostics" thread said to test blower motor, connect 12 volt and ground to motor and put resister beteeen middle prong and ground. The higher the resisteance the slower the speed. so I ran a wire from middle prong to ground which should give me minimum resistance, thus fastest speed. The blower didnt start. that means blower replacement is necessary right?
There is a procedure to test the blower motor assembly, but it is almost not worth the effort. The fastest, easiest way (for me) is to look into the diagnostic to determine if the signal is indeed set by the HVAC control module. If there is data, it is trying to work. If there is no response, the blower assembly is history.
OK I read the other posts and Im lost on diagnostics.... some said there should be 0-12 volts on center post based on fan speed and others said it would have 0 voltage all the time and you tested it with a resister. ...beyond me. My center post has zero volts reguardless of fan speed, so I just bought a blower . I snapped the connecter on teh car to it,and held it while someone turned teh key to on and started the blower. (no ac or automatic fan mode just, manual fan) . NOTHING HAPPENED!! bummer. since the plug has a ground I shouldnt need to ground the fan housing should I? I have a new lead as well since othe rthreads say these go bad.
Is it possible I just have a bad fuse somewhere on the AC controller??
Is it possible I just have a bad fuse somewhere on the AC controller??
When I replaced mine ('97 Deville), I did the same test. Plugged the new blower in before installation, turned on the heater control and it spun up. That would lead me to believe your problem is elseware. I'd check the plug carefully as the A/C programmer doesn't fail often but is BIG $$$$.
The programmer is located behind the glove box. At least it was on my '97 Deville and I suspect it is on your car as well. It can be identified by electrical as well as about 5 or so vacuum hoses attatched to it. I suspected it as a possible problem before I replaced the blower motor and if memory serves me correctly it was about $800. Having said that, I do not remember if that was a dealer price or an online price.
I purchased an engine tilter to replace the blower on my 98 ETC.dougtune said:
I was told by the dealer (who wanted $650), that the cables were also fried. I purchased the connector and cable, yet it was fine.
You DO need to tilt the engine forward, OR remove the valve cover (which sounds too messy). After you tilt the engine forward, you still need to wiggle the blower motor in. I did this twice (the first blower exploded, when I installed it without tilting the engine--and bent the squirrel cage).
I'm in Dallas. If you're anywhere close I can help.
I got a new AC Delco blower for $200, and the tilter for around $35. The connector for another $25 I think (all with shipping included).
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?xi=xi&ItemId=1611591408mtflight said:
OK, maybe a little more than a "buck or two".
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