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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

I have a 98 Deville Base hasn't run in a while and am replacing standard stuff and while replacing the fuel filter, and when starting, it started dumping fuel from the quick/pinch connector. I tried to reinstall and a few broken rubber rings fell out and just turned to mush and maybe a yellowish spacer, which I lost all of, I just couldn't find them after. I only found 1 yellow ring in tact(which I'm not sure if it came from the connector but I assume it did bc it was there and it fits) and I think the rest were like a reddish color. It seems it's just not clicking in right, I tried clicking in the old filter which seemed to fit way better but since the battery is dead I can't just swap them out to check to see if it's just the new filter. I was jumping it but I don't want to have a car hooked up to it while it's leaking gas-it just doesn't seem safe, so I have to wait until I can get a battery.

The line says GM 213m Type D Non Repairable....I haven't been able locatethis part anwhere online.

Is there a way to order the whole line, which I assume goes to the top of the fuel tank(which would suck to have to drop) or is there like a way I can order another connector and just replace the rubber rings/spacers in the one currently hooked up.

Thanks for an help!
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96 Concours, 05 DHS
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The tubing and connectors are fairly standardized. Dorman 800-300 kit has several tubing diameters and an assortment of connectors as well as the tool that pushes the connectors onto the line. You can fabricate a replacement with all new parts (that 23-year-old nylon line is prone to failure).

If you can figure out the specific diameters you can buy the individual connectors, fuel line, and tool a la carte for less than the kit. I did mine over a decade ago and don't remember which sizes this car takes.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Update: So I ordered a Dorman 3/8 fuel line replace/fix connector, instead of splicing the line, I simply took out the new gaskets/spacers out and put them in the old one. Seems to be ok....

Unfort I also am getting the p0453 code, which I was getting ut now it won't go away.. I replaced fuel cap, PCV, vapor canister purge valve/solenoid, seems to be running ok, but not sure. i can delete the code and remove the Check Engine light, but it will still be listed as current code...I also just ordered the PCV grommet bc is pretty bad looking, so hopefully it's that....

Any help would be great!
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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P 0453 has nothing to do with PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) - it's an EVAP code that points to the fuel tank pressure sensor - probably on top of the fuel pump assembly. I believe a 1998 requires a very, very carefully cut hole in the trunk floor to get to the fuel pump assembly top - rather than a total fuel tank drop.

You can clear codes all you want but until the fault is repaired the code and SES will return every time you start the engine and it completes its self-checks.


 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ah, I was hoping hoping that wasn't the case but now it started idling weird and kinda rough and dropping under normal idle rpms... I assume there are threads on how to drop the tank... If I drop the tank do you recommend changing the fuel pump as well, just in case? Also I noticed my FPR was a little wet and it looks like this(pic below) Idk what a bad one looks like, but it looks bad to me...
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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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The lower part of the FPR lives in raw gasoline. Those deposits are not good - not good. The shown holes in your picture face the fuel chamber - #1 in my picture.

The FPR uses engine manifold vacuum to alter the amount of fuel bypassed back to the fuel tank - the fuel pump runs full blast at all times and rail volume and pressure is regulated by the . . . . FPR. Large amounts of fuel are always bypassed to the tank return line.

Fuel pressure at the rail test port should be 41 - 47 psi at Key: ON, bleeding off VERY VERY VERY slowly. Rent the test gauge from a parts store.

I'd suggest a 20 oz. jug of Chevron TERCHRON fuel system cleaner, a fill-up with a Top Tier (Google it) gasoline and a spirited 75 mile highway run. (Leave the Seafoam on the store shelf)

Here's a simplified drawing of a FPR to show how one works - not necessarily our examples.

fuel pressure regulator diagram.gif
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Cool, thanks, I really appreciate it. I'll def check that out.

So I replaced some fuses, they all seemed ok but figured it wouldn't hurt. I then started it and the code is completely gone... I also unplugged the FPR vacuum for a few mins to see if it would leak gas-it didn't but I still think I'm gonna replace it bc it looks bad and is probably the original and it's up there in miles.

It's still idling a little rough though, so I'm gonna see what happens with the pressure test, and hopefully just some WOT will help it out... I swear if it was just a fuse I'm gonna lose my damn mind bc I checked them like a week ago....

I'll keep a posted once I do the pressure test.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So I checked the fuel pressure and ws getting 47 at key, stayed there. running ws getting around 42-43 ish, stable. I replaced the VC gaskets and the rental Fuel pressure tester broke, but I assume the pressure is ok. I replaced the new vcp solenoid with the old one bc it was clicking super loud and put on the old gas cap....codes stopped but still idles slightly rough, and the FPR should arrive today. More updates later.... Thanks again!
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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Given your fuel pressure test results it appears that there's nothing wrong with your existing FPR.
 
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