I did it on my 93 STS, assuming they are still relativly the same, and yes, you need to pull it from the bottom it is tight but not impossible, I did not have to remove the radiator like I have seen some say you need to. Its not that bad of a job but it isnt the easiest either. I am not a mechanic by any means and did it solo, so you should be fine. Just make sure you but a NEW DELCO and not some autozone crap that you will have to replace every year or two. Now may be a good time for a new serp belt to since you got it off...
i know that I'm replying to a ten year old thread, but I'm doing the same thing.
My '97 ETC already had squealing from the alternator or a pull when it got hit. The shop says the harness was severed and the alternator toasted.
I've picked up a '95 base eldorado as a donor car (it's a shame to scrap a car so pretty, but it's northstar is toasted). I've got someone who will do most of the work, but I'd like to get the alternator swapped before he gets back.
I'm assuming that *most* of it will apply . . . but other googling suggests that the ETC might have extra oil lines in the way to deal with.
There are references to removing the radiator for access, but he seems to have done it without this--but the radiator is another part I expect to swap (at 75+ on a significant grade at 110F+, coolant temp goes up, but rockets right back down when I back off the pedal. My speculation is that the radiator is partially obstructed).
And I need the donor car to remain semi-functional. Ideally it goes to the mechanic under its own power (it's good for about 10 minutes at a time), which it could do with one rest, but I need to remount the dead alternator and serpentine belt for that to get any cooling, don't I? And short of that trip, it needs to be able to move out of the way to get my '97 in and out of the garage.
Any suggestions, warning, and kibitzing are welcome . .
hawk, who is in a hurry, as the mustang is also unusable until he figures out to get the hood back up (it flew up and now latches too low to get to the release!)
First off, cooling is done by a seprate belt run off a camshaft.
'97 may (probably) has the water cooled alternator. Not needed when replacing, but the coolant lines need plugging.
Radiator, fans, and RF wheelwell splash shield need to be removed.
It's a PITA to remove. BTDT.
IF it IS like the Seville, the trick is to pull it out thru the right, front wheel arch.
Access IS vastly improved with the rad out.
The rad. & alternator are a matched pair, i.e. if you have a water cooled alternator, you need the rad. with the extra hose connection.
Cooling is entirely electric & the WP has its own belt, which is why the serpantine belt is not a fan belt - but an accessory belt; however I don't think you can run without one.
ETC has engine cooling lines on the right (that bottom union nut is 1/2" AF (1) a 3/8 drive "crowsfoot - IF there is such a thing - would make life so much easier (2) it will piss oil once it's pulled free of the rad.) & either a trans. or possibly PAS (not sure which) on the right, odd size unions - a 16mm union wrench would assist. These connections CAN be a right royal PITA - when removing the rad. from my '98 STS, the amount of heat AND hammer blows to the wrench would probably have rendered it scrap, if it hadn't been aleady.
f-w-i-w, the plumbing on the left of the rad. IS trans. cooler.
That lower oil cooler union is even worse to reconnect than to undo but I have learned that all the stuff that seems to be masking it can be moved out of the way,so at least you can see what you're working on AND you can remove apiece of plastic from under the car which would enable an assistant to lie underneath, reach up & present the union direct to the connection in the tank, while you, very gently, start to pick up the thread.
fortunately, the backyard mechanic just got back to town. This sounds more and more like something I don't want to do I'd rather spend my time on my '72 . . . that, and it's still *HOT* here. hey, it's down to 96Fat 6pm . . .
I can understand that, it's really not a whole heap of fun - especially with limited experience of what's involved. I'm sorry if, as a result of my well intended words, it costs you more $$'s but, I rather suspect, I've actually saved you a lot of grief.
If I had a earlier era model (something to which I still aspire - see my early posts referring to "progressing backwards") I'd rather spent not only time, but money & effort, on it too.
As for the heat, at one point, I was driven indoors (& I doubt the temp. was more than mid-70's) at one stage, to cool off (literally & figuratively) & reassess the particular problem (i.e. recommence thinking straight). Extremes of climate (or "weather" as it's known here) are not condusive to car work, at least with any degree of success, satisfaction or pleasure.
Good luck with it - however you decide to proceed.