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1997 Deville base
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42 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So I pulled the air intake manifold off today to try and fix an intermittent-starting-turned-never-starting problem. (lol the red cable from battery wasnt even bolted on and totally corroded, probably from the inch of pine needles and moisture in the valley) I pulled the motor and solonoid while I was at it to better clean the bolts for the harness when I notice a distinct "rattling" from inside. Sounds like multiple plastic pieces rattling around freely in it. Could this be why intermittent start (single click from solonoid, no associated codes but fairly hefty hit to battery voltage) is now a more permanent situation?

Other things of note: purple wire from relay frictioned through sleeving to expose wire, also starter motor ground strap also with a small exposed spot. Recent work ive done on the car was new radiator (old burst) new thermostat (stuck closed) and new water pump (it wasnt bad but i was replacing the gasket and it's 120k original sue me) and new battery. Waiting on a 10" S heater hose that goes from the T junction to the overflow tank to get in to finish up the coolant system. There was definitely a bit a fresh moisture in the engine valley from me spraying down an accidental (read: i didnt seat the water pump o ring right) coolant spill.

Before opening the manifold up I did try jumping the relay, same condition single click no start, radio fine lights fine dash fine, everything working normal. Apologies, but I cleared my codes after the battery change (which included some module testing and voltage memory error codes) but there were no powertrain or charging system faults, several low voltage histories I associated with the death of the old battery.

I dont suppose I'm asking for fix help as much as "huh my starter is rattling wonder whats gunna happen when I finish cleaning these connections and hook this back up"

Will report back soon.

Also new guy in the forum thanks for all the historical posts that have guided me in conjuction with an alldata sub. Yall are alright.
 

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Registered
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7,345 Posts
Usually rattling parts is a bad sign. Think I'd replace the starter myself especially since you have it out.
Those manifold are great spot for rodents, mine had mice chewing the knock sensor wiring and a nice nest.
 

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Super Moderator 2003 Deville Base SEMPER PARATUS
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4,333 Posts
Usually rattling parts is a bad sign. Think I'd replace the starter myself especially since you have it out.
Those manifold are great spot for rodents, mine had mice chewing the knock sensor wiring and a nice nest.
:yeah: getting to it is such a PITA, why not just replace it while you have the chance? One more thing to rule out for not a lot of money.
 

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1997 Deville base
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42 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Oh it wasnt so bad, getting to it was the easy part, I spent the most time soaking things in baking soda and cleaning all that nasty out. Just got her to turn over and start up, didnt let her warm as I'm still waiting on that hose to arrive. Got the standard history pcm's I was expecting, p0603 memory reset, b1552 ipc kam.

I'll be sure to post about my failed starter motor in a week or two for yall.
 

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2004 Deville base
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288 Posts
I got a couple dozen mousetraps/bait of all flavors in my home garage. Haven't seen the furry ba$tards lately, butttttt...

The LT5 is the same, starter in the valley, along with the coilpaks as well, and some vacuum lines. Excellent home. :rant2:

If cats did not make such a mess, I'd have a herd of them.
 

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-Administrator- 2002.5 F55 STS 2014 FWD Explorer
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66,616 Posts
Some owners have had some luck - rodent prevention - with balled up fabric softener sheets placed in the valley and near the firewall, away from the exhaust manifolds.
 

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1997 Deville base
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42 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Dryer sheets in the engine bay! This is the best preventative maintenance tip I've ever gotten! :thumbsup:
 

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1997 Deville base
Joined
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42 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Just wanted to let yall know I made my first major mistake today! I joined the ranks of corner cutters and used a 10-150 ft lb torque wrench set to 7 ft lb for the 89 in lb bolts on the intake manifold and broke one off in the engine block!

Good news is I seem to have gotten really fast at removing the intake manifold.

After getting over the crushing self loathing and vowing to myself to go get a halfway decent inch pound torque tomorrow, I decided the bolt was too small to drill and countersink out. So I found an old caddyinfo post where some poor sap had done the same thing and managed to get it out with a dremel-cut groove and a flat head. Taped up the cylinders with painters tape and delicately got busy.

intakemanifoldbolt_31.jpg

Success. Now to hit up a junkyard cus I dont want to wait a week and a half for a gm oem bolt (that costs 10 dollars!) to come in.
 

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-Administrator- 2002.5 F55 STS 2014 FWD Explorer
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66,616 Posts
Those intake manifold bolts should be anything but "tight". Comfortably snug is the ticket. Next time, you'll break one of the bolt bosses on the composite manifold and then you're in the intake manifold replacement business.
 
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