I recently purchased a 95 sts with 85,000 miles on it. Shortly after I got it, I noticed a wierd problem under light acceleration(around 1700 to 2300 rpms from a standstill). The acceleration is not steady. You can feel it and also watch the needle jump up and down slightly on the tach. What could be causing this and what should I do. I bought a warranty that covers drivetrain and engine stuff for 3 months or 3,000 miles and I am hoping to fix this under the warranty. Admittedly it is not that big of a deal, but it is annoying and I am wondering if performance could be better.
95 sts acceleration problem
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Sounds like a sticky EGR valve to me. Just give me a sec to copy and paste another post of mine here to help you...
here it is:
How to clean a sticky EGR valve
This article pertains to all models with the OBD-I Northstar 4.6L V8.
The symptoms of a sticky EGR valve are surging while trying to keep the throttle steady (not to be confused with surging at idle), and
code P036 (E036). Although it is possible to have a sticky valve with no code (that's how mine was).
First of all, don't do this job when the engine is hot. You WILL burn yourself. Your first task is finding the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve.
It is located underneath the spark plug wire cover near the rear bank of the engine. You will have to move the spark plug wire cover, you
don't have to completely take it off. Just lift it up and lay it sideways on top of the engine.
![]()
Now you need to unbolt the EGR valve. To do this, you will need a ratchet with an extension, and a 10mm socket.
Once you know the bolts are unscrewed all the way, don't try to remove them. Instead remove the whole EGR valve with the bolts still in the holes.
This will prevent you from dropping and loosing the bolts.
![]()
![]()
On the bottom of the valve you will see two holes, one that is plugged with what appears to be a screw and one that is open.
The screw like object is the valve. You should be able to press it in easily and when you let it go, it should close itself again (it's spring loaded).
The one I was working with was sticking in the closed position.
![]()
To clean the valve, simply spray carborator cleaner on and in the valve and wipe the dirt off with a cloth. Be very careful not to get it into
the canister, as the carb cleaner is a very powerful deturgent that will eat away the insulation on the windings in the sensor.
The following picture shows what you should not do.
![]()
The picture below on the other hand shows the right way.
![]()
Once you're all done cleaning the valve, you can reuse the gasket and put it all back together. Just make sure that when you put the
spark plug wire cover back into place that it clears the water pump belt.
What you have just done, should take care of your P036 (also E036) code. You can go into diagnostics mode and clear the code. If by chance it
didn't take care of the code (the code comes back after clearing it and going for a test drive), repeat the process.
If you can't get the code to go away, no matter how many times you clean the valve, replace the valve.
Happy motoring,
Krashed989
__________________
here it is:
How to clean a sticky EGR valve
This article pertains to all models with the OBD-I Northstar 4.6L V8.
The symptoms of a sticky EGR valve are surging while trying to keep the throttle steady (not to be confused with surging at idle), and
code P036 (E036). Although it is possible to have a sticky valve with no code (that's how mine was).
First of all, don't do this job when the engine is hot. You WILL burn yourself. Your first task is finding the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve.
It is located underneath the spark plug wire cover near the rear bank of the engine. You will have to move the spark plug wire cover, you
don't have to completely take it off. Just lift it up and lay it sideways on top of the engine.
Now you need to unbolt the EGR valve. To do this, you will need a ratchet with an extension, and a 10mm socket.
Once you know the bolts are unscrewed all the way, don't try to remove them. Instead remove the whole EGR valve with the bolts still in the holes.
This will prevent you from dropping and loosing the bolts.
On the bottom of the valve you will see two holes, one that is plugged with what appears to be a screw and one that is open.
The screw like object is the valve. You should be able to press it in easily and when you let it go, it should close itself again (it's spring loaded).
The one I was working with was sticking in the closed position.
To clean the valve, simply spray carborator cleaner on and in the valve and wipe the dirt off with a cloth. Be very careful not to get it into
the canister, as the carb cleaner is a very powerful deturgent that will eat away the insulation on the windings in the sensor.
The following picture shows what you should not do.
The picture below on the other hand shows the right way.
Once you're all done cleaning the valve, you can reuse the gasket and put it all back together. Just make sure that when you put the
spark plug wire cover back into place that it clears the water pump belt.
What you have just done, should take care of your P036 (also E036) code. You can go into diagnostics mode and clear the code. If by chance it
didn't take care of the code (the code comes back after clearing it and going for a test drive), repeat the process.
If you can't get the code to go away, no matter how many times you clean the valve, replace the valve.
Happy motoring,
Krashed989
__________________
Excellent post. Thanks for the great write-up. I'll be performing this on my 95 etc in an effort to fix the p036 code I've been getting.
Joined
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45 Posts
my 1995 STS acts up as well and I need help BAD!!! First off she has about 189K on her and I paid $4040.00 exactly for it two years ago, when she had 162K on her, did a tune up and new exhaust when I first got it, was told that I needed new mounts then, never got around to doing, the dogbone style ones up top are showin some wear, My tranny was acting up reving hard into second, and always wanting to slam back down to like 1500rpms right when you let up of the gas, even at interstate speeds, Im pretty sure the tranny needs some work. About a year ago, I had a problem where it wouldnt start at all, I ripped apart the steering column thinkin it was the ignition swith, wasnt that, so I had it towed up to Cadillac where the said the transmission transponder switch was messed up and the car couldnt tell wheather it was in park or drive. That was $450 right there. Now present day im stuck with the same dilema, go to start it and nothing no wanting to start or even a turn over, it just clicks from under the hood, like the something is relieving presure, (have yet to get the recall fixed on the fuel rail) Sometime though about a month ago, it would go in and out, like go on a streak where it would start for like 3 or 4 days and then go on a 2 week streak of not starting, and now its been sitting for atleast 3 weeks on its longest sitting period to date. Im pretty sure but not positive its not the starter, not the alternator, replace the battery today, and Im clueless what it could be. I can pull up trouble codes but most of them arent on the online look-up thing that everyone on here uses. If anyone can share info that will help I would appreciate it. Someone also said something about the ignition coil?? INPUT NEEDED!!
The clicking you hear is most likely the starter solenoid, and if the problem is not the battery or its cables,
it's most likely the starter.
You should post your codes, some people here have other resources than just that one website.
Also, next time you should create a new thread for your new topic. :thumbsup:
it's most likely the starter.
You should post your codes, some people here have other resources than just that one website.
Also, next time you should create a new thread for your new topic. :thumbsup:
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