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Discussion Starter #1
First tested steering wheel speed sensor and only got proper ohm
reading on one of the three tests (can't remember which combination, terminal A to B, B to C or A to C) so I removed S.W.S.S., cleaned and tested off the car and all three combinations fell within the proper ohm ranges. I then put the S.W.S.S. back on the car and then it read the same as the first test, only one of three passed. So I rotated the S.W.S.S. 1/3 turn and got same results, then I rotated 1/3 again and
all three tests passed. Hooked everything back up, cleared DTC, went for a drive and rechecked codes and 1-44 was back. Do these S.W.S.Sensors install in any particular position or does it matter? There is no notch or tang to indicate this. Also should the ohm reading be steady? When I got all three readings correct on the car 2 of the 3 bounced around a bit while one was a nice steady read. Thank you.
 

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The speed sensors ohm readings will fluctuate as the car accelerates/decelerates...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply elwesso. These fluctuating readings I got were with the car in the driveway with the negative battery post disconnected.
 

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Wes, he's NOT talking about the vehicle speed sensor. He's talking about the STEERING column rotational speed sensor which is part of the Variable Effort Steering system.
Brackets:
Let me get back to you in the AM when I'm at work so I can give you some spec's.
 

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OK.
As I recall, the sensor only goes on one way but the manual doesn't really spell it out. So in this case, you'll have to rely on your common sense.
The 44 code is for open or shorted sensor but could be the connection and/or related wiring also. The sensor has several resistors inside it and that's how it translates the rotation into data for the module. In most cases, the sensor is bad and "should" be replaced. However, most older cars like ours tend to develope a little "slop" in the steering gear which can be mis-interpreted by the sensor as an "emergency" manuever. This can show up as a pulsing effect in the steering which generally tends to show-up on medium to high speed sweeping turns like highway on/off ramps. I hate to say it but most people just disconnect the sensor and the problem goes away. That does leave you without Variable Effort Steering but unless you replace the steering gear to eliminate the slop, it's kind of a catch-22.
Hope this helped you out.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yah I was a little disappointed with the service manual (just got one off Ebay) in this case. It really doesn't give much detail and it's almost a little misleading. For reassembly they show the clip coming up from the bottom when it actually has to come in from the side. "Common sense" says it should be reinstalled with the wiring harness facing down to where the female side of the electrical connector comes up from behind the inner fender so I'll go with that. My steering actually seems quite tight and I've never experienced that pulsing effect. Yesterday I cleared the code twice and turned the wheel while in diagnostics mode and got 44 as soon as I moved the wheel. Unfortunately I don't think I've ever experienced the Variable Effort Steering functioning properly since I bought the car from the original owner last summer. What's your opinion on the fluctuating resistance readings that I got, have you personally had to troubleshoot one of these? I guess I will continue down the troubleshooting "tree" and make sure that none of the other conditions in the manual exist before I spend the $300.00 plus (choke) that the dealership wants for a new one. Not sure if the V.E.S. warrants that kind of cash but I'd like to keep everything on the car working as it should. Thanks again for your attention Kevin.
 

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If you have the manual, you can see the schematic of the sensor itself and that shows the multiple resistors inside it. I'm sure that this is what you were seeing on the meter. Of course if the meter went to "0" or "~", that would be showing you the fault (open or short circuit).
Personally, I intend to scrap the system on mine and go with a F-Body box in an effort to regain some steering "feel".
 
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